Focal Length Multiplier & more

alwayslearning

Well-known member
Ok, I've read in this forum for some time now. I have learned a lot and continue to. I have been mostly patiently waiting for the time I could buy a dSLR. Barring an audit, I will be able to get one within approximately a week or two. So, I have questions. I hope some of you can steer me to good sites and/or offer some help here. I have ideas about things, but when it comes to actually making the purchase, I want to get all the info I can and do not care a bit about any ideas I already have ..... if wrong, I'll let them go. I just want to know all I can up front. This is a once in a long while opportunity for me. I'm not actually going to ask which camera is the best because it is a silly question and would likely garner some (rightfully) silly answers. Instead, I have some "generic" questions.

If a camera spec sheet says "Focal Length Multiplier = 1.5X" I am thinking that means, for example, an 18mm focal length is actually equivalent to a 27mm focal length with 35mm film? (1.5 X 18 = 27) Is this correct? I have used a Minolta film camera since about 1984. I have a lot of glass and accessories (extension tubes, X2 adapter, etc.) so I am going with the Sony A700. I have an old 70-210 lense. On the camera with a 1.5X focal length multiplier, what would that translate into? I'm not sure if the new lenses, i.e. 16-105 mm are numbered for digital or film (or full size sensor which I won't have?) or will the 16-105 really be like having a 24-157ish lense?

Then I wonder about a CCD vs. a CMOS CCD. I've read a lot on one vs. the other but it is hard to say as it seems there are advantages and disadbantages to both. Maybe newer CMOS CCD's are improved over some of what I was reading?

A really big deal to me is off camera flash. I have never used that though I've used my arri lights. Does any dSLR work with off camera flash or is there something I need to look for in the specs? Are all of them wireless or not necessarily? I want, or would prefer depending on cost, wireless. I see some folks here mentioning a SB600. I looked up on Google and found it is a Nikon unit? Can it be used by any dSLR or is it a Nikon only device? Are there others that work with any camera?

Well, that is actually quite a lot for now. Thanks in advance for any forthcoming info.

Larry
 
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You are correct that 1.5x for the focal length multiplier means that a 50mm would be 75mm on a 35mm equivelent. all lenses are numbered in 35mm equivelents so even a new lens that comes with camera will say 15mm-50mm and it will mean 22.5mm - 75mm (look a at video camera lens it will read something like 8mm - XXmm) CMOS is a sensor and CCD is another type of Sensor (no such thing as a CMOS CCD). Most camera should be able to work with any flash but certain flashes will offer recognition to certain cameras so that camera and lens setting can be read by the flash and automatic modes can be used. My 430ex can be used by any cam with a hotshoe and removed using a pocket wizard or infrared transmitter but only certain eos models will allow it to use ETTL.
 
Lots of good questions...

First of all, congrats on making the decision to purchase as well as purchasing a system where you are already invested in glass. Cameras will come and go but your glass will last forever (or until you scratch or drop it).

That being said:

Focal Length Multiplier: Yes. How you interpret this is true in regards to being equivilent to 35mm film. A 20mm lens which is normally plenty wide on a 35mm camera acts like a 30mm lens. Or better example: the 50mm lens that is such a standard in 35mm film becomes a 75mm lens, quickly approaching the lengths of traditional portrait lenses.

There are full frame options and many of these allow the shooter to have lower noise in their images because of the larger sensor (I actually like 6MP cameras the best because once you get to 10MP you have so many pixels on a tiny sensor you get more noise, but that is off topic). In order to get full frame you pay for it. The Canon 5D is currently the lowest cost full frame camera, but you should handle extensively before purchasing (I am not a fan of it at all).

Full Frame vs. Crop Sensor is a debate that will rage. For me, I like that my expensive telephoto lenses act even longer. The reason I have glass such as my 17-55 is so I can shoot wide on a crop camera, same reason I have 10-20mm lenses. These are designed for the crop shooter.

From this point, let's talk about flash.

You can do flash easily and cheaply. Go to strobist.blogspot.com and learn everything about it.

Or

You can invest in the Nikon camp, get an SB600 or SB800 and go crazy with the CLS (creative lighting system). I know a lot of Canon shooters that have come to Nikon for the CLS... To me, it is nice, but flash is an art unto itself, and it once again comes down to what you are shooting.

If you are a wildlife shooter than it doesn't matter... if you are an event shooter than it is important. Or, better example, look at Alverez... Great results using the CLS.

That is a thing to get you into Nikon though. Sync cables are cheap on Ebay and will do the same thing for you.

I think I touched on most of the issues. Congrats on your purchase... It really is the Indian, not the Arrows, so just get shooting.
 
I lens on a 1.5x sensor will not pick up the sides of the lens image which has the worst optical quality, so that is a good thing. Downside is that you are using less glass for the a specific amount of MP count so in a way your lens isn't living up to its sharpness potential. Sensors are all about how clean they are. The 5D has a bigger sensor which allows more MPs without introducing much noise. as Jeremy has said the equivalent would be a lower MP count on a 1.5x camera for the same amount of noise. But different Sensors perform differently. Canon and Nikon are super clean. With any camera shoot in raw and one stop over and you can bring it down in post. This will reduce a lot of noise especially in higher ISOs since the data is held exponentially in the highlights
 
The guys are right. One other thing that I will mention is that you might want to consider the value of your old glass and how easy it is to work on an SLR.

I know not all old Minolta glass is autofocus, which is kind of a big deal with digital. SLR's do not have the split prism's that our old Minolta's had as a focus aid (I shot with an X700 for about 10 years). That said, most of the current DSLR's have a focus indicator light. Some people do not mind using these at all. If there is an artistic shot you want to setup, then it is not a big deal as you have time to AF(auto focus). Other shots however do not always have the time to do that, and having AF lenses can be a big help.

There is no write or wrong about using AF or manual lenses, but DSLR's and Film SLR's work totally different. Just something to consider before you choose a manufacture based on your current lenses. I decided to go with Nikon, but it's really a personal decision. Get what you feel comfortable using. Most of the current manufactures create a great end product, Nikon and Canon being the 2 industry leaders.
 
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