FL-3030A and FL-3060A Flex LED panels

S

scotchtape

Active member
Wanted to condense and start a new thread on these from the other super long thread plus add some of my measurements.

Wattage of FL-3030A @ 100% (5500K) using stock PSU = 30W draw
Wattage of FL-3060A @ 100% (5500K) using stock PSU = 50W draw
I tried using another 24V 6A power supply I bought from Amazon - I got a couple hundred lux brighter on the FL-3060A (really nothing in the grand scheme of things).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AJQ9G2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for reference.

Conclusion: The 30A is a 30W LED panel, and the 60A is a 50W LED panel.
NOT as advertised... 3030 is advertised as 50W and 3060 as 85W.

LUX measurements ($30 lux meter, not super accurate nor scientific)

FL-3030A @ 100% (5500K) @ 1M BARE = 1,500lux
FL-3030A @ 100% (5500K) @ 1M Diffuser = 1,500lux
FL-3030A @ 100% (3200K) @ 1M Diffuser = 1,150lux

FL-3060A @ 100% (5500K) @ 1M BARE = 2,000lux
FL-3060A @ 100% (3200K) @ 1M BARE = 1,700lux
FL-3060A @ 100% (5500K) @ 1M Diffuser = 1,700lux
FL-3060A @ 100% (5500K) @ 1M Diffuser = 1,400lux

For comparison, using my Aputure COB 300D through a 32'' Godox Octa I'm getting 3,000lux using the included double diffusion, and 4,500lux using double frost.
The 200W Godox SL-200W does 2,500lux and 3,800lux respectively.
I imagine putting 2x 3060As together you can get around 3,000 lux @ 1M (5500K) which isn't bad for a lighweight "soft/diffused" LED panel at $150 per panel = $300.

I tried putting my Aputure 672S behind the diffusion of the 3030A frame, and surprisingly got less than 1,000lux @ 1M despite it putting out closer to 6K lux bare.

Main plan for this is for a lighweight kit when using transit to get downtown. 2x 3060A for key and 2x 3030A hair and fill.
Cheaper than the Falconeyes stuff and I like the fact that it sets up so quick and includes the diffusion.
Not the best by any means, but really light and inexpensive. Not sure about the actual light quality but seems less green than other LEDs, and who knows about the durability.
Another con is that it just lacks any punch if you need it to fight the sun.
 
How are you testing power draw? I was getting higher power draw numbers than that on my kill-a-watt tester.
 
nyvz said:
How are you testing power draw? I was getting higher power draw numbers than that on my kill-a-watt tester.
Click to expand...

I have stuff like this lying around, I just wired it so it accepts 2.1mm barrel plugs and put it between the PSU and the unit
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BAYIT...F8&qid=1511548283&sr=8-15&keywords=watt+meter

It's possible the amazon PSU is a complete POS too but who knows, although it really shouldn't be a surprise that these no name chinese lights don't actually output as much as claimed...
 
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OK well as you've started a new thread I'll add my findings for anyone that's new to this product:

My mains plug-in meter showed my 3060A panels pulling just over 60W each, that excludes any PSU inefficiencies of course.
I tried a Minger 6A PSU as well as a few other brands up to 7.5A and sadly had no luck - the panels flickered really badly at anything other than full power.

I spent £205 on 2x 3060a panels (and I've just bought a third for £95 during the 11/11 sale event).

Until I bought these Travor panels I'd been using an Aputure LS1c in a 60x60 softbox which is listed as approx 120w.
The light output, colour, and softness of the Travor panels is much better that my Aputure setup, plus it weighs almost nothing and is less than two inches thick.

My plan for the third panel is to mount it on a boom arm as a top light with a simple velcro eggcrate/grid for control.

Also, I've bought two of the Travor NP battery adapters and they are working well so far.
 
Duncan Craig said:
OK well as you've started a new thread I'll add my findings for anyone that's new to this product:

My mains plug-in meter showed my 3060A panels pulling just over 60W each, that excludes any PSU inefficiencies of course.
I tried a Minger 6A PSU as well as a few other brands up to 7.5A and sadly had no luck - the panels flickered really badly at anything other than full power.

I spent £205 on 2x 3060a panels (and I've just bought a third for £95 during the 11/11 sale event).

Until I bought these Travor panels I'd been using an Aputure LS1c in a 60x60 softbox which is listed as approx 120w.
The light output, colour, and softness of the Travor panels is much better that my Aputure setup, plus it weighs almost nothing and is less than two inches thick.

My plan for the third panel is to mount it on a boom arm as a top light with a simple velcro eggcrate/grid for control.

Also, I've bought two of the Travor NP battery adapters and they are working well so far.
Click to expand...

1. Are you comparing two 3060's combined when you say that the output is better than your aputure setup?
2. When using as a key, what is the setup time? I've thought about switching to (or adding) something that is both soft, lightweight enough to go on a fairly light stand, AND strong enough for a key in a variety situations where I currently use my LS1s with a 40inch diffusion disk (that requires a separate stand with arm to hold the panel).
3. Do you break it down completely as shown in their kit pics, or do you leave it in the frame for quicker setup but less portable storage/travel?

Edit:

Also, when you combine two panels, how are you rigging that up?
 
Hiya, yes I am comparing two 3060a panels to one LS1c in a soft box.

The modular frame allows you to build it as a 60x60 then attach two flex panels and diffusions.
It's not seamless down the middle, but it's quite usable.

Up to now I've been breaking them down completely, but I've just bought a longer than usual Peli type case so I can leave my three 3060 panels pre built inside.
I couldn't fit the 6060 setup in the case. You can do all sorts of unusual rigging with these lights, like simply clipping them vertically onto the lightstand, or any stand. They weight so little.

Another point mention is that power runs straight into the panel via a DC barrel, with no external control box.
So I've made up a few long DC barrel extensions using thick 2 core flex, it's so easy to mount the lights anywhere then.
 
A few crappy photos from a while ago when I had two different types of diffusion and was messing about with the kit, but you get the idea anyway...
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Yup, just waiting for a good deal on another 3060A and 3030A to round out my lightweight setup. Weighs nothing and relatively soft.
Going to add my Godox SL-60W and NG10X just in case I need some real punch (about 25,000lux @ 1M but really small spot).

I wonder if overvolting can work...
 
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Ok so I tried adding some SMD 5050 30deg led lenses to the FL-3060a to see what would happen. FYI you just press fit these onto the LEDs, they'll probably fall off if you roll them a lot.

At 5500k bare, it increased the intensity to about 3,500lux instead of 1,500.

With the diffusion, it more or less did nothing and stayed around 1,150lux. But when looking at the fabric there was a tiny bit of blue fringing at the edges of the lens projection, and it was more spotty compared to no lens.

It's about $16 per big panel so $8 for the smaller ones. 500 lenses for $17.

Is it worth it? I guess it depends. Nice to have the option for punch, but they are incredibly difficult to look, as is any bare fixture, and you will get the multi shadows at the edges going bare. I'm planning on carrying an extra fresnel on me for punch so I might as well just use these as soft fixtures only.

I was hoping to break the laws of physics and get more out of the diffused mode, physics wins again!
 
Can somebody do skintone tests please? Comparing it to a tungsten source or known LED? I am not finding any info on that.
 
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