Expose the camera?

Lake Films

Veteran
Hey. Can anyone explain the procedure for exposing the camera. Let's say you have a 1k as the key, a 500-600w for the fill (If that's even ok) etc...I think you expose the camera with the key light, correct? Honestly, I think this is too much light for a horror film, but I may be wrong, that's why I'm looking to the DVX pro's! Lol, thanks.
 
Sorry, I meant, how do you expose the camera to lighting? I know that a 1k light, a 600w for that matter will blow out the highlights. It seems like everyone is using very powerful lighting, I haven't and I think I may be doing something wrong.
 
The DVX ?

Well ...............

You select either Auto or Manual (Auto sucks) and then use the IRIS. It is also reccomended you pay close attention the the Zebras (Most seem to prefer 80%) by selecting the ZEBRA button ....

Can we see some examples of your problem ?

You'd be surprised at how little light you need.
 
Actually, there isn't a problem. The last short I did (Grabs below) were shot with a wattage that never went over 75w. Most of the time it was a couple of 25w reflectors. Is there really a need/advantage, to using these monster 1000w lights?

Note: The grab on the left isn't actually as dark as the grab appears...
 

Attachments

  • bedroom1.jpg .jpg
    bedroom1.jpg .jpg
    20.9 KB · Views: 0
  • wake up find body.jpg .jpg
    wake up find body.jpg .jpg
    20.9 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
I believe it was, can't say definite yes though. I did it before production, but does it need to be done for every shoot?
 
They look like they were underexposed more than anything on my monitor. If you are not seeing what I am seeing, then your monitor may be too bright ...

THe clown, at the table, is barely visible ....
 
Well you raise an important point.

Lighting ratios are important. alot of the "look" is the contrast between the key/fill and the backlights and lights that illuminate the background.

basically you want some parts of the picture to be briht and other parts to be dark...... but the trick is to keep it within the 7 stops of DVX lattitude.

this lighting raton is the "secret" The real ***** is trying to maintian it.
 
Good points Tim

-

Lake, the grab looks good; but the concern of using more light is a valid one. Imagine this scene with some Arri kit all over it.
 
Oh man, I wish I was more savvy with lighting. This film would have been that much better. I have an omni, and a tota right now along with a smith victor 600w kit and a soft box. I do not use them often, maybe I should. If I was to go 'all new' or add to my current kit, what would you recommend? Thanks for the help.
 
Actually, I wish I could have seen what it would have looked like, oh well bummer. Horror films are lit with a 'low key' lighting scheme. Any idea/books/links on how to learn how to do this the proper way?
 
dude i think it looks pretty rad. Dont beat yourself up too much......

oh wait i didnt see the original uncced grab..... Hmm you might want ot use a reallly tight cut flagged light to bring out some texture on the wall, to make sure the fact that its a mirror shows thorugh. I thought the two were sitting acrossfrom eachother at a table....
 
Tim pretty much nailed it.

I look at the entire area that will be within the image and consider everything. Every little object and plain should be addressed. You are essentially creating a series of great photographs in which you are trying to convey "something" that will aid or drive the story.

I normally try to over-light and then control the lights with scrims, cookies, etc. I keep close to the sweet spot of the cam and lens (with 35mm adapter) and try to bring it just under 100% zebras (80% for light skin).

As for the lights... I mostly get away with using various combinations between one 750w, two 500W, one 250W, and of course bounce cards, scrims, cookies, etc.

John Jackman's book Lighting for DV and TV will give you a great start in lighting basics.

You can also pick out a movie that has lighting that you like... take a single frame and try to mimic the lighting. You will start to realize just how much the lighting is being controlled and gain some practice while doing it.

my $00.02

EDIT: Having a good (calibrated) field monitor is a must IMO.
 
Do you think B&H carries the scrims, bounce cards, flags & cookies etc...? Or better yet, any place you guys can suggest? Maybe I'll jet over there tomorrow...
 
OH yea!
they definintly have it.

But why buy em for 70$ when you can make em for a few bucks. Cookies are just black foamcore with holes in it. bounce cards are just foamcore. Flags are black fabric. Preferably black vlvet, as it absorbs Heaps of light.

BTW: I talk alot of POOPOO. All that stuff isaid earlier is WAY easier said then done. Dont think i am any kind of master or anything......
 
Back
Top