Edge to Edge Sharpness on LE

Also, I think that's why a lot of users aren't seeing it and Tim has. I've noticed that higher quality glass tends to have a smaller "iris" (is that what it is?) than cheaper glass. Especially the wide angle lenses. Tim does have some high quality Nikon glass, My Vivitar is hand-me-down beginner glass from way back. Also the 17-35mm I have has a larger piece of glass, didn't see the edge fall-off with that one either.

So Tim, I feel your pain!!! I had high hopes for this Zeiss glass but even now I wish I could strap on the Nikon mount and go back to the 17-35 for these wide shots. Thank goodness this is a music video, or I'd have an unhappy client.

I also owe a bit back to the Brevis, as I can see this causing more of an issue with the Brevis as well.

I want to test this theory, but if you guys can compare for your glass for me (Glass size, iris size) to the lenses you have that don't exhibit this edge softness that would be great.
 
Canon L series glass is RAZOR from corner to corner. i have 2 of them. Both amazing.

24-105 F4 L IS USM

85mm F1.2

INCREDIBLE.
 
Canon L series glass is RAZOR from corner to corner. i have 2 of them. Both amazing.

Have you used them on the Letus + HVX? And the SGpro + HVX? It sounds like a totally incorrect theory, I know, but I'm looking at the glass right now as they shoot and realizing that my SLRs just don't exhibit the same softness on the edges.

These are older Zeiss PL Standards as well. I think late Seventies glass. I wouldn't think this glass goes THAT soft at the edges. Whatever it is, it's not working out at all. I'm gonna have to try to convince them to strap on the Nikon mount because they can't get the frames they want.

Also, Timur, being that it's a Telephoto Zoom, it should have a larger slab of glass, right?
 
Dude.... i keep telling people. SGPRO.

I can put any lens, any apeture, and it just works, sharp pretty and simple. From F1.2-F16... all is good up to 1/250th a second.
 
Timur boy, have you posted a picture of your rig before? And do you own the flip add on for the sgpro? Would like to see your workflow.

None of this is sexual.
 
The Ziess Standard Speed lenses are known to porthole on lens adapters.

Oh snap. I didn't know that. Cause that's exactly what's going on with the wides. It's an extreme porthole as well. Frustrating as all get out.
 
Dude.... i keep telling people. SGPRO.

I can put any lens, any apeture, and it just works, sharp pretty and simple. From F1.2-F16... all is good up to 1/250th a second.
'

Do you have a PL mount and have you tried Zeiss Standards if so?
 
The Ziess Standard Speed lenses are known to porthole on lens adapters.

Matty G you are ABSOLUTELY right! It's not the Letus, it's the portholing on adapters

Just so happens that I had to fly in an M2 (My Letus is going crazy at the moment. =( ) And lo-and-behold... PORTHOLING on Zeiss Primes.

The issue is tied directly to the glass, which is a good thing to find out for myself. I'm willing to bet it'd do the same on the SGpro and any other adapter, like Matty pointed out.
 
i remember reading somewhere that vignetting/hotspotting on adapters is to do with how large the rear element on your lens is. i just did a test with my 35mm 1.4 and 35mm 2.5.

my adapter (letus35A) vignettes a bit anyway, so this doesn't reflect what the lenses are capable of, it's just a comparison. i set it up an faced an evenly light wall, same zoom settings, same everything, just swapped lenses. both were set to f/2.8.

it's an important note that neither of these two lenses vignettes at all on my full frame SLR.


35mm f/2.5 at f/2.8
1201133010.jpg


35mm f/1.4 at f/2.8
1201133190.jpg


comparison of rear elements
1201133253.jpg
 
The last picture is a good example of what I'm talking about. But, it's less about the vignette and more about the sharpness fall off. You're in a position to do a good test.

Can you do us a favor and find a poster or something that has detail from end to end. Level the camera, shoot with both lenses at the same aperture and show us the stills of what you get?

Also, which one is which
 
the only camera i have access to at the moment is an old consumer SD 50i single chip camera.... not the best camera to do edge to edge sharpness tests on. the letus35a has a huge issue with edge to edge sharpness... but never the less i'll give it a go :D
 
I'm gonna do it when I get home as well. I have two 50mm and two 35mm, and still have some footage from the Zeiss lenses when I first figured this out last night. Didn't know what it was til Matty said something, though.

Makes me mad that we didn't rent better primes, and that I wasn't prepared for it.
 
Dude.... i keep telling people. SGPRO.

I can put any lens, any apeture, and it just works, sharp pretty and simple. From F1.2-F16... all is good up to 1/250th a second.

Stop shilling for sg. The LE flips. Once you've flipped you can't go back. Which is why my SG's catching dust. I'm with Barry on that inverted imagery just blows chunks. Until someone here has tested the SG with a flip, it's not a fair comparison. I got suspicion that the flip may introduce similar grief. I've put a post out fishing for answers and no one has one. And don't forget the LE is sharper and loses less light. If this is indeed an E to E issue and LE takes care of it in due time, the SG will need to step it up.

But it's not my adaptor is better than yours deal, it's my adaptor could be a contender if someone can figure out what ails it.
 
because of the vignetting and the low resolution, it's a bit hard to tell. but i think there is an improvement in edge to edge sharpness. but someone else will have to do the test with a HD camera to be sure...


35mm f/1.4 at 2.8
1201137409.jpg


35mm f/2.5 at 2.8
1201137475.jpg
 
because of the vignetting and the low resolution, it's a bit hard to tell. but i think there is an improvement in edge to edge sharpness. but someone else will have to do the test with a HD camera to be sure...


35mm f/1.4 at 2.8
1201137409.jpg


35mm f/2.5 at 2.8
1201137475.jpg


i have done a similar test, shooting a sheet of paper with very small grid lines. What you have to remember also tho, is that things on the corners will ALWAYS be less sharp than the center, due to there being a slight difference in distance..

The only way to avoid thi would be to shoot on a curved wall with equal distance to the lens on the sides and the center.

Why hasn't anyone brought this fact up?
 
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