Dolly track wedges?

Jim Brennan

Jim Brennan

VHS Member Old Skool
So now that I have my fancy Norms dolly track, I thought I would put my table saw back to work, and cut some wedges to level the track.

Are there standard sizes, angles, or types of wood typically used?

I know they are typically cut together to nest in a milk crate (or at least that's how I have seen them sold. Anything else?
 
I was thinking you'd need a hell of a table saw to do those. If you have a bandsaw (w/ jig or angle adjustable fence) or 12" miter box that may be your best bet.

In the past I've contacted a local cabinet maker (or general woodworker) for stuff like this. You could probably supply the wood and tell him what you wanted done with it... and end up with 50 wedges for $20 (labor).
 
C'mon Matt. You of all people should know it doesn't work that way. I have to spend twice as much as it would cost to buy them in order to make them myself. :grin:
 
LOL!... yeah... well... I've always wanted a powermatic table saw with an exacta-fence... but it was way too much cheaper to pay a guy who already had it.
 
I can't imagine how you would get that narrow angle... (safely)

Even with a table saw or a circular saw

Any ideas?
 
I've set up jigs for stuff like that before. But the one thing I can't do is 4" deep cut on my table saw. Not sure what I'm gonna do. I might go with a smaller block of wood for now. See how that works.


Why is that something you didn't need yesterday suddenly monopolizes all of your time today?
 
j said:
I can't imagine how you would get that narrow angle... (safely)

Even with a table saw or a circular saw

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

This is why I suggested a bandsaw or 12" miter box (both are capable of cutting a 4" thick 2x4 (which is actually 3.5")... but not the needed 11.5" long... but for a shorter wedge:

First cut a wedge off the end of a 2x4 by setting the appropriate angle, then cut the second wedge by simply using the miter box in it's regular way, like a chop saw.

But if you want to come up with your own wedges... you'll see why I suggested calling a couple cabinet makers. One of them will have a $3K tool that can do this easily... and they'll think "okay so now ALL you want me to do is cut some boards? I'm not even making anything with 'em? how 'bout twenty bucks."

The reason I quoted the safety issue is because RIPPING thick and narrow wood on a TABLE SAW is very dangerous... especially at those slight angles! You gotta' make a jig so that the wood is held at the right angle while you're still applying pressure at a 90 to the blade (against the main fence like you normally would).

If you used a sliding miter box... at least you can fix the wood in position... clamped or in a jig... and the wood can't fly loose because it's the SAW that's moving.

It would be scary to be pushing your hands (even with a push-stick) into a blade that's big enough to do this on a table saw. Whatever you'd save in time and money isn't worth a finger or two.
 
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MattinSTL said:
It would be scary to be pushing your hands (even with a push-stick) into a blade that's big enough to do this on a table saw. Whatever you'd save in time and money isn't worth a finger or two.
Click to expand...

Sigh... Dammit Matt, I hate when you get all logical. :nads:

:grin: But thanks for saving me a trip to the ER.
 
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