DIY micro35 kit (New Footage!)

Redrock,

Any updates on when the guides will be shipping? I know this question has been asked a million times but it seems like the shipping keeps getting delayed. I like many of us here pre-ordered a guide a long time ago. Just would like an update.

Thanks
 
James said the ground glass situation has been taken care of and that a new website is going up soon... along with pics of the updated mount.
 
affordable mini 35?

affordable mini 35?

does anyone sell a homemade/affordable kit that I can buy now? I don't have the time to make one and I must shoot soon.
 
Does that say that the camera is $6 dollars?, it looks interesting but I wonder when it's cheaper than a disposable 35mm camera
 
redrock said:
That's basically the same thing I've show above.

I'm currently changing up the spinning design to an oscillating design which will take up less space. I'm also finishing up the errecting functionality which will be handled inside the device.

What is the difference between a spinning gg and an oscillating--are there any more pros rather than just the space that is saved? What are you going to use to oscillate the gg redrock??
 
Thats what I was thinking.. I really don't see what the big difference between the two. If you get a fine enough grit on GG then spinning should be fine. Hell just leaving it static should be good too if the grit is fine enough on the glass.
 
x-angel said:
I really don't see what the big difference between the two
By spinning a screen 10-15 times larger than the frame area, the chances of getting the movement perfectly plane are lower than oscillating a screen size of the frame size. A higher mass will have a higher inertia (the gyroscopic effect). Spinning creates a... hmmm... spinning "pattern" for the grain.
You may not see the individual grains, but the feeling of rotation is there. If the frame is placed at 9:00, it may "enhance" the feeling of motion picture.(vertical from frame to frame....like scratches on the film) Oscillating the screen is another challenge but if done in a circular motion, creates a "random" grain pattern movement (if ever visible, subject to screen brightness/light transmission) Both methods yield somewhat the desired result, subject to taste.
 
achromats and such

achromats and such

I was curious since I have begun my own cunstruction fromthe red rock's instruction how to "attach" the carmera to the adapter many vague answers have been given but I figured, looking at your desig, you would have a much clearer respons.
 
hey andrew. I tried the redrock's DIY booklet and also felt very confused. I pride myself in being handy and I was able to get mine to work. unfortunately, I kind of touched the Ground glass and you could see a line spinning also the drilling a hole through a screw to use it as a mount for the ground glass does not result in a well aligned GG holder (even with a drill press) and after much thought and consideration, I decided to just buy the damn thing. I figured, I rather make a shoulder brace, or other atachment that don't degrade the image. After spending all that money on the cam and everything else I might as well spend some more and get beautiful shots.
the DIY and the RedRock M2 do not attach to the camera. they just attach to a rail system below and the right distance form each other. some people have found a way to attach the M2 to the HVX200 with some step down rings and breaking a polarizing lense. I tried this and it worked. Do a search on this forum for M2 and hard mounting.
Just fyi. the M2 requires very precise machining. the GG must spin perfectly smooth, and if the GG is not mounted perfectly perpendicular to the camera lense, then the edges will be out of focus. Also I found out that for the HVX200 you needed to get the Achromat lense ($395 i think) which lets the HVX focus closer. without it you will get vignetting or not be able to focus on the GG properly.
Hope this all made sense.
 
Back
Top