The anamorphic adapter may mount to it, but it's extremely doubtful that it would function at all. Its optical design seems to be optimized for a focal length of around 35mm, and it gets *really* pushed to its limits at 45mm... I don't think it'd be functional at all at longer focal lengths.
hey redrock, how'd you get the FF unit to work on the lens. Do these lomo lenses have focus gears? Because i would love to attach a follow focus unit but don't know how to pull it off with canon or nikon lenses. if i can go with the lomo lenses then that would be the route for me.
I'm hearing more and more good things about using wax instead of ground glass. Much finer grain (virtually no grain) and translucent in much the same way apparently. I don't know if this would be possible, but it might be worth trying.
As a DVX user I am blessed and cursed - blessed with a great camera, cursed that I know very little of 35mm lenses.
I love the results of the mini35, but don't have any idea where to start for selecting a lens. I would appreciate hearing some recommendations on specific 35mm lenses (used or new is fine) that would make an excellent first choice. Thanks
Sorry - Let me clarify that. I have read all the previous posts re: lenses, and it gives me something to go on.
It seems like I need to decide on a mount first. Example: I saw a PL-35mm mount adapter on eBay. Should I go PL? It also sounds like the 35mm lens route is about getting a set of lenses rather than a multi-purposes 1 or 2 lenses. Sorry to sound dense, but I don't have photography background (perhaps there are others in my boat as well). Thanks
My knowledge is a bit limited but I am been doing a fair amount of research lately so I will try to give a decent answer.
From what I can tell pl mount could be difficult to deal with and harder to find lenses in a resonable price range. You could end up spending more money on lenses than the mounts. On the up side you can find some faster lenses within this mount compared to the speed of still photo lenses (by speed I mean the f stop/exposure ). Those lenses will run you a good bit of money though. Also these lenses will have the standard gear ratio so you can add a follow focus without any hassle, which is a plus.
With still camera lenses you are still getting the same depth of field unless you have the faster lenses that are wide open at a faster setting than the still lenses. You can still get primes within still photo lenses and you will get a slightly sharper image from a prime as well as they tend to be faster lenses. A large plus to these lenses is that you can build a set of primes up for under a hundred dollars. I built my kit up for around 50 dollars because I got extrememly lucky.
If you go the still photo route I think so far the easiest lenses to mount to the micro are the canon eos lenses, I went the way of older fd mounts but that is just a slight mod on the mount.
I would venture to say you should get a 50mm. That is not the type of lense but the field of view, the higher the number the smaller the field of view or FOV. A 50mm sees ruffly the FOV of the human eye, and has a pretty shallow depth of field.
A 28mm is a good wide angle with a minimal amount of barrell distortion; if any. With the wider lenses of course you get a deep DOF.
With lenses like 135mm you can throw focus all over the place because they are so shallow. I would try to get a 135 with a speed of 2.8 if you can.
really if you are using this to get the shallow look, then get the fastest lenses you can. Who would have thought somone would venture to say they want to look shallow. Don't everyone laugh at once.
Hey that's definitely a start for what I need! A couple of clarifications -
1. by "fast lens" you mean lower fstops (say 1.8f)?
2. 135mm lens - they are $70 or $300 on eBay. a 135mm is $70, and a 25-135mm is $300. Which type should I consider? I am getting the impression that the preferred approach is more about fixed focal length lenses.
3. FD mount - Several of these lenses advertise an FD mount. I don't know a hoot about all these mounts, but I see FD, HD, EOS, PL. Should I be selecting for a specific mount (given the PL input from above) or should I just simply be aware of the type of mount I am getting? If I purchase an FD mount, does that mean I am officially "only FD" or is it more of a mix-and-match scenario? Thanks - great help to me (maybe to other non-35mmers too )
Yep, fast would be a lower f#. F1.8 is generally considered to be rather fast. There are some f1.2 etc lenses out there but these are generally really expensive.
The downside of going full open is that the lens tends to have it's worst performance in that state. It's certainly not ideal. Also, I think if we want a true 35mm look then an extreme DOF, like a f1.8 wide open would give, would be far too overbearing. Shallow DOF is used creatively in 35mm film it isn't always f1.8 shallow (in fact hardly ever).
Generally speaking prime lenses (set focal lengths) are sharper and faster than zoom lenses. With these adapters and a standard definition camera you won't notice a difference unless you use really bad glass. Of course, zooms are also slower which means you will need more light.
I don't know much about the canon mounts but nearly all Nikon lenses ever manufactured can fit the same mount. This is great when you need a wide selection of lenses that are cheap, high quality, and compatible.
What mount do the Lomo lenses take? I'm embarrased to say that I've not used their lenses. I'm was going Nikon as the default mount for my Micro35, but now wonder if RedRock is suggesting Lomo for price / performance / availability reasons?
I very much want the option of fitting an Optex PL mount to the M35 as well, though I'll only rent the Zeiss or Arri PL glass when someone is paying me to achieve something a decent piece of 35mm SLR glass couldn't do itself.
I think the human field of view is closer to 52 - 55mm for what it's worth. I consistenly fall back on my Minolta-Rokkor 58mm 1:1.4 glass for its incredible resolving quality and DOF, but it is always just a tad too long!
Oh, buying an f1.8 lens would be perfectly fine. You can adjust the iris to control this usually up to around f22 so an f1.8 would give you the most options (f1.8 being the largest aperture the lens is capable of achieving). You could pick and choose. Definitely go with the fastest lens you can afford. It will give you the most flexibility.
Honestly, on a standard defiition camera, I don't think you would notice the difference between, say, a Nikon lens and an Arri or Zeiss. Perhaps with regard to chromatic aberration (not overly likely) but almost certainly not in sharpness. Contrast would probably be a bit better with a Zeiss lens. I think the real benefit of using cinema lenses (on standard def) is the ability to use a follow focus. It would be interesting to see how these adapters would fare on a high definition camera.
I have personally used a mini35 with nikon lenses. The 50mm 1.4f lens looked the best, so I would say the faster the lens the better especially because you loose f-stops with these adapters, (at least 2 f-stops with the mini35).
Based on my personal experience with the mini35, I would get nikon lenses for the micro35.