Dedo Dled Substitute

ozmorphasis

Well-known member
I'm looking for a fixture (mostly as a kicker, edge, hair light) that is:

1. Focusable
2. Bicolor
3. Compact for travel
4. Good CRI/TLCI
5. AC/DC
6. Not Dedo prices

I see this option, which is obviously a Dedo DLed Knockoff from Falconeyes:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...027.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.2995e5c0Xu7uNf

and Came TV's more recent Boltzen models have bicolor options, but most people who have invested in the Boltzens seem to be disappointed after getting to know them better.

The Falconeyes seems pretty much perfect except that I have to go through AliEpress and there aren't any reviews out there yet.

Any ideas from the collective DeVoX Hive Mind?
 
Kinotehnik‘s Practilite 602 LED Fresnel is my suggestion, as it is less expensive, plus packs up smaller, than the 90W DLED once you factor in the separate ballasts needed for AC or DC.

http://www.newsshooter.com/2017/10/30/kinotehnik-practilite-bi-color-smart-led-fresnels-reviewed/

These look great. I'd love to spend less on a kicker/edge light, but I do like that it is a true fresnel lens, focusable, and the app seems well thought out which is great for travel gigs.
 
Check these out

While not bi-colour, they're punchy enough where the output loss with the 3200k filter didn't cause a problem. I can't speak for CRI, they were used as background/back lights, not directly on skin.

image1 (2).jpg
 
Check these out

While not bi-colour, they're punchy enough where the output loss with the 3200k filter didn't cause a problem. I can't speak for CRI, they were used as background/back lights, not directly on skin.

View attachment 129346

Thanks Rob. What I linked to in the initial post seems to be a bicolor variation of the same thing, or at least something very similar. I actually do want continuously bicolor control since I will be doing a ton of travel shoots in the medical industry, not know what color fluorescents I will find. Also, I don't always trust what LEDs do when gelled.
 
Thanks Rob. What I linked to in the initial post seems to be a bicolor variation of the same thing, or at least something very similar. I actually do want continuously bicolor control since I will be doing a ton of travel shoots in the medical industry, not know what color fluorescents I will find. Also, I don't always trust what LEDs do when gelled.

Aren't you mostly making +/- green corrections in hospitals? Is the light you linked says 100w but is that 50w tungsten, 50w daylight?
 
I've never seen a review of a an LED fresnel that even asks the question of whether the damn thing can make a sharp shadow with its doors or allow you to cast a nice gobo pattern on a wall and Newshooters's above is no different. It's a drag as that's what I expect from a Fresnel . I haven't sen an LED fresnel that can do that and it keeps me from buying one. So far I'd go for the very inexpensive cool light CDM 150 fresnel any day ( same output and sharp shadows as an Arri 600 tungsten fresnel). And the bulbs for that are cheap long lasting and you can get a daylight or tungsten bulbs for it. I'm amazed you don't see them more.

Frankly I don't really get why so many people even want LED fresnels since you have to diffuse them anyway . Why not get some kind of panel that's either already big and soft or at least part way there. Seems to me they are useless as hard light.
I'd be happy to be steered to a good one though.
 
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Aren't you mostly making +/- green corrections in hospitals? Is the light you linked says 100w but is that 50w tungsten, 50w daylight?

That's part of the reason why I hesitate to order that light. There is some conflicting information. It looks like some info was taken from the daylight only light, but merged with a bicolor version.

The question of correcting LED's is a tricky one. Their behavior is just not linear enough (in contrast to tungsten and actual daylight) to speak in terms of temp correction and green/magenta. The dips and valleys in the light produced are more elusive than that.

My Aputure LS1s is great. When I use CTO on it, it does not look as good. When I've used a friend's LS1c set to tungsten, skin looked way better. Is the LS1s needing +/- green on top of the CTO? Will this be an even bigger pain to deal with when gelling in increments in an environment with 4400k fluorescents?

Anyway, my point is that I'd love to have more control (without a big CRI/TLCI hit) at the fixture level...if possible. Of course, I've gelled my way to heaven and hell and back as needed, so I'll do what it takes. I'm just currently shooting for a kit that includes all bicolor lights for indoor travel shoots.
 
I've never seen a review of a an LED fresnel that even asks the question of whether the damn thing can make a sharp shadow with its doors or allow you to cast a nice gobo pattern on a wall and Newshooters's above is no different. It's a drag as that's what I expect from a Fresnel . I haven't sen an LED fresnel that can do that and it keeps me from buying one. So far I'd go for the very inexpensive cool light CDM 150 fresnel any day ( same output and sharp shadows as an Arri 600 tungsten fresnel). And the bulbs for that are cheap long lasting and you can get a daylight or tungsten bulbs for it. I'm amazed you don't see them more.

Frankly I don't really get why so many people even want LED fresnels since you have to diffuse them anyway . Why not get some kind of panel that's either already big and soft or at least part way there. Seems to me they are useless as hard light.
I'd be happy to be steered to a good one though.

I'm with you Lenny. See my rant here
 
That's part of the reason why I hesitate to order that light. There is some conflicting information. It looks like some info was taken from the daylight only light, but merged with a bicolor version.

The question of correcting LED's is a tricky one. Their behavior is just not linear enough (in contrast to tungsten and actual daylight) to speak in terms of temp correction and green/magenta. The dips and valleys in the light produced are more elusive than that.

My Aputure LS1s is great. When I use CTO on it, it does not look as good. When I've used a friend's LS1c set to tungsten, skin looked way better. Is the LS1s needing +/- green on top of the CTO? Will this be an even bigger pain to deal with when gelling in increments in an environment with 4400k fluorescents?

Anyway, my point is that I'd love to have more control (without a big CRI/TLCI hit) at the fixture level...if possible. Of course, I've gelled my way to heaven and hell and back as needed, so I'll do what it takes. I'm just currently shooting for a kit that includes all bicolor lights for indoor travel shoots.

Fair enough, I'd go with the practilite then.
 
Just circling back to thank Rob and Bern for the Practilite suggestion. Bought one about 4 months ago and it has been invaluable for both my solo travel shoots as well as local OMB shoots. The quality of the light, the lens focusing, color temp control, and the app....that app is super useful!

The fact that it runs off V-mounts has also been perfect.
 
that's a fairly pricey light - what features swayed you towards that light as opposed to the one Rob Norton suggested?
 
that's a fairly pricey light - what features swayed you towards that light as opposed to the one Rob Norton suggested?

True fresnel lens, continuous bicolor control from 3000k-6000k, excellent color rendition, and the invaluable iOS app control for adjusting hair or edge light from behind camera -especially useful in situations where I have several different interview subjects back to back in tight quarters using the same setup.

Lastly, this is a great light to throw in my backpack with a vlock, Merf stand, and small umbrella or just a sheet of diffusion and a clip when running around grabbing b-roll. Has saved me in many a situation.

Yes, a bit pricey but I bought it before doing a bunch of travel gigs for a client, so it’s been more than paid off.
 

Not even remotely comparable. The Practilite is a 90w fixture. The Aputure is 30w. The former is a true fresnel lens, has remote operation, and the fan is audibly negligible. Read reviews on the Aputure fan. Lastly, the photo metrics are not even close.

Edit: And for the record, I (along with everyone else) was excited after seeing the initial announcements for the Aputure minis after NAB 2017, but they have not delivered a light that will fit into my workflow, nor others' judging by most reviews. They are very weak and have a loud fan that ramps up on its own with no user control.
 
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I have the Aputure mini and I'd have to say the lack of remote control is a major pain, especially given the majority of Aputure lights do have remote control.
 
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