Deciding how soft light should be

Paper_bag

Active member
Recently did a quick search on use of opal gel, mainly because I'd encountered it a few issues of American Cinematographer from last year. Discovered a forum thread on precisely the issue (http://www.studentfilmmakers.com/bb/showthread.php?1444-opal-gel):


cnabers: "I have recently noticed a lot of cinematograprhers mention the use of Opal gel in thear shots(American Cinematographer mag, internet forums etc). It seems that they are primaraly used in CU's. Can you go over the techniques and effects of using this type of gel."


David Mullen ASC: "Opal is a very light diffusion gel, that's all. It's not particularly better for close-ups in terms of getting a soft light look because it's so thin, but sometimes that's all the diffusion you want, if you've established a hard key the wide shot and just want a hint of softening for the close-up.

Otherwise, a frame of opal may be used to FURTHER soften a soft light when moving into a close-up, putting a 4'x4' frame of it just off camera between the soft key light and the face in the close-up.

You need to use all sorts of strengths of diffusion gel depending on the situation. Some people would have 4'x4' frames of Opal, 250, 216, Light Grid Cloth, Full Grid Cloth made, for example (in order of strength from lightest to heaviest)."


Which raised another question for me which I hadn't properly thought about -- what sort of considerations do go into deciding how hard or soft a light should be? Is it just a matter of experimentation and taste, or of trying to get the image in frame to look like the image in your head? Are there any sorts of rules or guidelines here?
 
It should be the level of softness you think is appropriate for whatever you're trying to do in the shot.

Softness in light conveys, well, softness and beauty and comfort and niceness. In general. It washes out harsh shadows and gives everything a smoother appearance.

Hard light conveys toughness and drama and hardness. Again, in general. It creates harsher shadows and brings texture into sharp relief, especially lines on a face.

There's no formula for it. It's all about what serves your purposes best.
 
I have a "piece of equipment" that determines what things look like.

Its coupled to another "piece of equipment".

I call it the eye-ometer and its connected to my brain ...and its really simple to use.

I am not being sarcastic or cynical. Its what I actually do use to make a shot work.

What you see is what you get effectively... so train your "eye".
 
...Also remember that soft light can still be very directional. ( you can egg-crate a softbox, or use flags/cutters to block soft light from spilling beyond your subject, creating a kind of beam of soft light that falls off very quickly )
 
Recently came across this thought: "Most of the time diffusion is a matter of experimentation and personal preference. Once you settle on a type or brand you like you may be unlikly to change. I have seen people get very depressed when a diffusion is discontinued." -- Richard Veil, Chimera Lighting
 
I have a "piece of equipment" that determines what things look like.

Its coupled to another "piece of equipment".

I call it the eye-ometer and its connected to my brain ...and its really simple to use.

I am not being sarcastic or cynical. Its what I actually do use to make a shot work.

What you see is what you get effectively... so train your "eye".

The two most useful meters in any cinematographers kit.
 
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