Neurodancer
Well-known member
Sorry for the dual posting (posted by accident in DVX100 Forum)
I am on a roll, these are the latest 2 homebrew items.
The D4 to BNC cable was purchased for $8.00 at:
https://www.digitalconnection.com/st...MFG=i-o data
I discovered that the signal wire (in middle of cable) is only something like 30 AWG. This is very thin and fragile wire. If you decide to solder your own connectors use the shield wire as a strain relief. The cable is approximately 18" long, it is a pretty good length.
I have found that this cable and the D4 cable supplied with the HVX both have very fragile signal wires. I have developed a work-around for this issue. If anyone wants to see how I did it I will post details. I believe that all these cables will fail sooner than later. Unfortunately modifying your own may be the only solution
Power Break Out Box
Warning: don’t mess with this unless you know what you are doing!
This should stop those breakers from popping. The power box is an old 4 breaker box. I have each receptacle on its own circuit. The cable I had laying around was a 4/10 AWG. This is good for 2- 30 amp circuits. It can be pushed to 40 amps on each leg. You can use a larger panel if you have a lot of lights. I was short one alligator clamp rubber insulator. You do not need any insulation on the neutral and ground. A flat-bar handle was welded on top for easy handling. The outlet boxes were welded on also, but can be screwed on. Just know what you are doing before you open someone's panel and start clamping onto the main bus.
I normally keep a few of the more common dual 40 amp style breaker with me. I add a pigtail onto the breaker then clamp onto that. That way I stay off the main bus and don't have to power down the entire panel and everything connected to it. Staying off the bus bars will keep you out of trouble.
I am on a roll, these are the latest 2 homebrew items.
The D4 to BNC cable was purchased for $8.00 at:
https://www.digitalconnection.com/st...MFG=i-o data
I discovered that the signal wire (in middle of cable) is only something like 30 AWG. This is very thin and fragile wire. If you decide to solder your own connectors use the shield wire as a strain relief. The cable is approximately 18" long, it is a pretty good length.
I have found that this cable and the D4 cable supplied with the HVX both have very fragile signal wires. I have developed a work-around for this issue. If anyone wants to see how I did it I will post details. I believe that all these cables will fail sooner than later. Unfortunately modifying your own may be the only solution
Power Break Out Box
Warning: don’t mess with this unless you know what you are doing!
This should stop those breakers from popping. The power box is an old 4 breaker box. I have each receptacle on its own circuit. The cable I had laying around was a 4/10 AWG. This is good for 2- 30 amp circuits. It can be pushed to 40 amps on each leg. You can use a larger panel if you have a lot of lights. I was short one alligator clamp rubber insulator. You do not need any insulation on the neutral and ground. A flat-bar handle was welded on top for easy handling. The outlet boxes were welded on also, but can be screwed on. Just know what you are doing before you open someone's panel and start clamping onto the main bus.
I normally keep a few of the more common dual 40 amp style breaker with me. I add a pigtail onto the breaker then clamp onto that. That way I stay off the main bus and don't have to power down the entire panel and everything connected to it. Staying off the bus bars will keep you out of trouble.