Coollights LED

M

muroshi

Well-known member
Hey Richard,

how are things developping with your Supa-Dupa-LED you posted over at reduser? I don't like to buy into flos as everything is shifting toward LED now and this seems to be THE light.

Cheers
 
CLLED2500-5Cm.jpg


Coming along nicely but not quite there yet...

No pricing or final delivery dates yet.
 
2592 LEDs known as "LED 2500" or "Miltos 2500" after the guy that kept bugging me to make one like this. Roughly 24" x 19" x 3" in size. So its a bit more than 4 LED 600s in size and output.
 
Should maybe come packaged with a complimentary pair of sunglasses! LOL!

Sounds awsome, I'd better start saving for one right away. More good products !!!

My LED256 and softboxes for the 600's arrive tomorrow -- can't wait!
 
Richard,
Got my LED256 today just in time for tomorrow's shoot. It's the perfect hairlight. The Panasonic battery holder seems to only hold onto the bottom slde slots of the batt so the top has some play especially the bigger batts. Not a dealbreaker, but I'll probably have to g-tape the batt onto the holder so it won't fall off accidentally.

thanks,

chris
 
Since you seem to be in a sharing mood, Richard, you recently mentioned developing an LED ringlight and a small Litepad-type fixture. How are those going?
 
Hi Muroshi

I have 3 600's and 2 256' here with me in Cham, Switzerland.
You can have a look at them if you like, just contact me under mail at augenblick dot net.

Cheers Peter
 
Thanks Tom and Chris for your comments. Thanks Peter for offering demos.

David, I'm still working on the ring light, left the litepad for the moment as its just too much to keep up with. It'll have to wait a bit more. I'll post pictures of ring light when we get the fixture together. It'll be about 10" in diameter and have about a 5 1/2" hole in the middle. Should be big enough for any lens I can think of. I'm investigating all the different mounting possibilities and thats a big holdup. So many different ways to mount such a fixture so it has to be versatile.
 
That, Richard, is drool-worthy. With 2500 LED's or so, is its brightness 2 or 3 stops brighter than the LED 600, or is the increase in brightness somehow not directly "inverse-square-ish?" If it's that much brighter, wow, I coulda used that as a key on my last shoot, when I was using my LED600 as a rim light. Using the two together would give a killer key:fill ratio without modification...
 
That one in the picture, used 60 degree (flood) LEDs. The lux output at 1 meter was 19000 (or in FC it would be 1765 at 3 feet). So its about 4 times an LED 600 flood. We'll probably just skip the flood models and make only spot ones since the area covered is so large even with a spot panel. We'll see what the output is with the new one which I'm waiting for (spot version) when it's ready for me to check out.

Another interesting thing about this particular one is its a bi-color panel. It was probably just a bit weaker than an all daylight panel would be. 1/2 very low color temperature and 1/2 high color temperature. Will have two dimmers one for each color temp. When all LEDs are on, its output is in the 6000K range so its at normal HMI color temperature and the resulting light is at least CRI 90 (no need for minus green at all). Very impressive results. Then using the dimmers, you can adjust to anywhere in between about 2900K to 8000K.

We'll have the two versions, bi-color and all daylight panel available when its ready. The bi-color will be a bit more expensive as the LEDs have to be hand inserted to follow the alternating pattern I chose in the PCB layout so more labor intensive.
 
seriously, very drool worthy Richard. I'm already loving my LED 600's and the new softboxes/gels, can't wait for these! Any rough idea on the pricing?
 
Nice idea Richard. I suppose you will need some minus green when you dim it, but getting it from 2900k to 8000k is very versatile. It also sounds very powerful. How many watts will it draw?
 
Thanks for your comments!

Still not far enough to say pricing just yet.

Might need some minus green but not sure yet. Certainly if you just use the bank switches to cut down proportionally between the two colors, it won't be an issue.

The 1200 LED model will draw about 100w and the 2500 about 200w. Both operating off 24 V nominally.
 
Cool Lights said:
Certainly if you just use the bank switches to cut down proportionally between the two colors, it won't be an issue.
Click to expand...

That is a sweet idea. I saw the switches but didn't thought you could do that.

Are you building some sort of diffusion filter for it? I don't know if you'd have a multiple shadow issue with so many LEDs but if needed it would be great if there was one sold with the light already designed to have the least light loss possible while eliminating the issue, and if the light had a place to slide it in. Will that be a concern?

Cool Lights said:
The 1200 LED model will draw about 100w and the 2500 about 200w. Both operating off 24 V nominally.
Click to expand...

Nice. What would the tungsten equivalent be for us lumen challenged folk?
 
Hi Richard,
If we intend to use the led600 with the softbox, does it matters much if we choose the flood or spot version of the led600 ? and if there is a difference, wich one is better to use with the softbox ?

Also, can you give a rough estimation of when your coming product should be available (LED2500, ring light...etc) ?
 
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For the LED 2500, probably won't have softbox but maybe some kind of diffusion flozier. The lollipop would never stand up to the weight of a softbox.

Tungsten equivalents, I'm not quite finished with the final LED selection so let's wait on that but I'm hoping for 2500w equivalent on the 2500 (or thereabouts).

Marks on dimmer, at least a color coding of 3200 and 5600 if we can do multiple silk screening without too many issues.

I think the LED 600 spot would be best to use with the softbox for the most output.

I really don't want to say just yet when I think these will all be available. It always seems like bad luck coming the moment you start giving estimates.
 
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