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So I got my samples back today of the tungsten fresnel units with changes I suggested. Been testing them most of the day and looks good to me!

I'm enclosing pictures here for reference of what we'll be selling in the tungsten line:


CL-TF150

CL-TF150cm.jpg


CL-TF300

CL-TF300cm.jpg


CL-TF650

CL-TF650cm.jpg


CL-TF1000

CL-TF1000cm.jpg



Comments invited...
 
"How much?" and "when can I order?" are two that come to mind! Also, did you ever sort the scrims / scrim compatibility question?

Bring it!

e
 
Very nice.
I only wish you had these last week (along with your bankable flos) -
I couldn't wait any longer and wound up ordering some Flolights this week....

so take your time now Richard - I need to save up some more money.
These look nice.
:thumbsup:
 
Nice!!! I like the black details. Hope the wiring is up to par on the 650s. One thing I noticed on the Blulines I used which you should check out, when you tighten the lamp to the stand there is a little metal threaded piece where the tightening screw goes in to. Then that is embedded into the plastic frame that holds the light. The metal piece gets pushed out when you tighten too much and cant be pushed back in.


blacklines.jpg
 
Boy its been a long day! Was so excited I stayed up a bit later than usual so I may be a bit cranky tomorrow. But right now I feel crazy. Yes we're crazy at Cool Lights...

Pricing. Here's what we'll offer for those that only buy tungsten fresnels from us:

150w: $190
300w: $220
650w: $265
1000w: $320

We're not making so much on these and I consider it mostly a reward to those that order other of our products. As such, there will be an additional significant discount off of 20% on these fresnels for those that order other Cool Lights products in the same order.

I should have some more interesting pictures to post of the fluorescent offerings too...
 
Nice pricing for the lighting. and they look seriously pro. Would LOVE to see the Fluorescent models. =DDD
 
Hope the wiring is up to par on the 650s. One thing I noticed on the Blulines I used which you should check out, when you tighten the lamp to the stand there is a little metal threaded piece where the tightening screw goes in to. Then that is embedded into the plastic frame that holds the light. The metal piece gets pushed out when you tighten too much and cant be pushed back in.

Yes sir. I'm demanding better wire for sure. The problem with those stand adapters on the 150, 300 and 650 is that they are molded plastic in the interest of saving costs on those units. I did try and fight on that point but I lost. You pick your battles is my motto and I thought the wiring was probably the most important one.

The 1000w unit's adapter I noticed is metal though, so no issue there. My best recommendation is to use it like it is and replace it with a metal one like our Cool Lights solid black metal stand adapter when that one wears out.

By the way, I have a 2000w model for evaluation but I doubt I would sell it as most of you couldn't use it so effectively off normal power. It is one hefty unit. But, it's just such a specialized instrument I don't know if it really makes sense for my market. I don't even have a great way to test it really. The main reason I got it was to use as a "frankenstein" for some experiments with 1200w HMI bulbs and such!
 
Nice pricing for the lighting. and they look seriously pro. Would LOVE to see the Fluorescent models. =DDD

Believe me, me too! I've been waiting for the fluorescent prototype to come back for a long time now. I hope its worth the wait.
 
Me likey, I am going to have top grab some of these.

Richard, I am still having problems with the stand I bought (and you were great about responding) If I sent you the pic, could you get me the replacement bolt.
 
Me likey, I am going to have top grab some of these.

Richard, I am still having problems with the stand I bought (and you were great about responding) If I sent you the pic, could you get me the replacement bolt.

Yes I remember that.

Here's the thing. The bottom part of the stand has these special pins that are inserted with a special gun. You won't have access to either of them. So, they aren't bolts. If you use a bolt then the legs won't fold up so that's why it's classified more as a pin. We've had a couple that fell out because they weren't inserted well with the gun and either we did an RMA on the stand or the customer just bought a cotter pin and used that which is the same basic idea. There's another kind of pin that would work but I don't know the name of it. Not sure where you get them either. But I may have seen them at Home Depot in the same area the cotter pins would be. What I'm thinking of basically comes in two parts. Both ends have a head but one side is a bit smaller than the other and slides into the bigger one and then they attach semi-permanently somehow. That would be ideal.

Otherwise, we should do an RMA like I offered before.
 
Doors and bulb included but I don't have the bulbs yet and am looking for the 110v versions so I don't know all the details about that yet. We generally don't have lots of extra addons we surprise you with unless something is in development which is always an ongoing process and then we offer it later.
 
Tag for expected delivery dates.

There's at least one in every crowd isn't there? Someone always wants to know when they can get them. ;-)

Anyway, thats' all influenced by getting manufacturers to cooperate. I would already have had all this stuff in the Spring if it wasn't for lots of misses on tracking down parts, suppliers, their reliability, current capacity of factories to deliver based on their level of being busy, etc. It's been very hard getting to just this point and we're on it full time and not giving up until its delivered to the states and our warehouse.

But then there won't be too much rest as we have to do it all over again and get ready for the next manufacturing run so we don't have a supply hickup again like we did this time on our fluorescent fixtures which we ran out of the 455 and 655.
 
"How much?" and "when can I order?" are two that come to mind! Also, did you ever sort the scrims / scrim compatibility question?

Bring it!

e

Hi Erik,

Please refresh my memory on this. I vaguely remember a discussion about this but I don't remember the specifics. Were the scrims on these units not compatible with the ones on arri's?
 
Richard - In a word (or two) where do these fresnels fit into the overall strategy of your HMIs? Are there HMI (ceramic?) hard lights on the horizon as well? I love these fresnels but want to imagine a light kit that has some more energy efficient/"cooL" lights in the kit!

TVH
 
Well I mostly took these on for the selfish reasons of realizing the HMIs affordably. These compact fresnels make the perfect housing for the HMIs but offering them in different two different product groups allows me to buy the quantities that the factory is more interested in with some being HMI types and the rest being tungsten.

In particular, the 650w body will be the base of the CL-MF150 150w HQI/HCI (quartz or ceramic) type instrument which puts out about the same amount of light as the 650w did. The ballast is very small and light.

The 1000w model becomes the CL-MF575 575w (quartz only--no one makes a quartz 575w yet) HMI using a real HMI HR bulb and puts out about 2400K worth of light for drawing only 575w. Ballast is a bit bigger and in the 4lb range. How's that for efficiency?

Plus you get daylight on both models and choice of tungsten color on the 150 model only. This of course lets you blend the more efficient instrument in with tungsten lights or 3200K flos if you prefer that color. Otherwise, using them both in daylight with daylight flo's gets you a super efficient portable kit.

So people can still have their hard light compact fresnel type instruments but not heat the place up so much.
 
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