Cool Lights 150 CDM frenels - arrived!!

We talk about lots of esoteric issues and little known or obscure things so its hard to get it all. And not everyone will be interested in all the details. A lot of issues to talk about though for those that do care, and it can be hard to keep up with what all we're up to--which is quite a bit for such a small company.

PRICE. The price did go up a bit on a few things. That is a benefit for the early adopters. ;-) Our costs are going up everywhere: falling dollar, rising gas, etc.

SEMI PRO 575w. The 575w fresnel at $699 is a beta test, "semi pro" unit as we call it. I am not totally sure of our plans for that model in the future. We actually have 3 different models of low cost ballast out there now in test and whichever one works out best would be the final one (if we decide to go ahead with a "semi pro" model) but as of now, no solid plans to market the under $1000 solution yet. The fixture itself is no problem--whatever little issues are in the test units could easily be worked out in final ones. It's all about the ballast and ignitor--that's where we need to know reliability levels.

PRO 575w. Anyway, the model you see on the website now, is using our 575/1200w ballast / ignitor which is ready to go--the same model used in our new CL-MP1200HR HMI 1200w par which is also being sold now. The $1599 price is temporary and will go up a bit again on the next batch. Our first batch will always be a bit less expensive than the 2nd batch on many of these cutting edge products to compensate the risk takers.

NOISE ISSUES. One thing to note is there is some amount of what I call "head noise" on all these higher wattage, low cost solutions. Ballast noise is not an issue with the 575/1200w model as the fan is a whisper fan--you can't hear it. It's just not as simple with metal halide to make a totally silent solution from one end to the other and there will most likely be some kind of noise at some point in the system.

Some of these electronic ballast/ignitor combos have more head noise than others. This can be attributed to several things but mostly the higher frequency the HMI bulb is driven on these electronic ballasts to keep from having flicker. We've discussed this before on this site. Its hard to explain and quantify how much noise there is but those that buy this solution should be aware of it. It's a metal halide issue mainly and very hard to figure out all the different variables which can be based on bulb and ignitor--literally, one brand or model of bulb may have more noise than another because of the resonances involved between parts within the quartz envelope of the bulb. It is extremely hard to figure out why more expensive ballast/ignitor models do not have the issue as much. Don't want any noise at all but still want a low cost solution? Use a magnetic ballast, but be prepared for sacrifices relating to frame rates and shutter speeds. We thought the electronic ballast offered the best overall experience if you can find creative ways to live with any noise involved. Some people using these solutions have a magnetic and an electronic ballast for the same head and use whichever one is appropriate based on whether they need absolute quiet because of sensitive recording going on in a very closed and small room or that they need to guard against flicker so they use the electronic and sound is not an issue in that particular scene.

On that note, remember that you are paying 1/4 or so of what an equivalent HMI would cost, so if you're interested in this type of solution, you should be of an attitude that you will find ways to make it work (like I do) rather than beating the solution because it isn't exactly equal to the $5000 to $9000 solution at $1599 which is not a realistic attitude.

The best advice is, don't place your mic right next to the lights. Place it at a normal position next to a subject. In any case, using it outdoors, you would not hear the issue at all. Dan "puredrifting" Brockett also had a good suggestion once when we were discussing this issue here on DVXUser, he noted that LTM HMIs have some head noise and he uses an audio bandpass filter in his editing program to filter it out. In my personal uses and tests, I don't have a problem because I don't place the mic near the lights.
 
Hi Richard,

That tech response was really useful. Because of the six-minute restrike, how sensitive are the bulbs if the light is moved around? I don't mean moved roughly, but if you have to lift and re situate the stand/light. I always turn a light off before moving it, but it could be a pain in this situation to wait six minutes.

Plus on a side note, I have an office in Houston and here in Australia. Can you give me a ball-park figure for shipping to Australia?

Cheers,
Peter
 
Finally, after a year or so the planets aligned (i.e. I had money and he actually had product available) and I wired Drewski a cool grand for a couple of these CDMs! Cant wait to get them
 
Hi Richard,

That tech response was really useful. Because of the six-minute restrike, how sensitive are the bulbs if the light is moved around? I don't mean moved roughly, but if you have to lift and re situate the stand/light. I always turn a light off before moving it, but it could be a pain in this situation to wait six minutes.

Plus on a side note, I have an office in Houston and here in Australia. Can you give me a ball-park figure for shipping to Australia?

Cheers,
Peter

The official answer is its never good to move stuff around while its lit, tungsten or HMI. Of course, we've all done it, me included and most of the time there may be no issue. For that one time when there might be an issue though, its a really good idea to have some spare bulbs around ;-)

I'll have to check on the shipping of the MF0150 to Australia.
 
Finally, after a year or so the planets aligned (i.e. I had money and he actually had product available) and I wired Drewski a cool grand for a couple of these CDMs! Cant wait to get them

Thanks for that! You should be getting them relatively quickly.
 
any advice on which temp to get? 3000k or 5400 K?

edit to add:

Also, can I just get both bulbs and swap between them or is the fixture made specific for eith quartz or ceramic?
 
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Just ordered the 150. I having trouble finding a suitable small case that can fit the light, ballast and cable. The Pelican 340 cube case is sort of what I'm after but is pretty expensive and too big for the light fixture. Can't find anything on Stormcase, SKB, etc. I have to go custom. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them.

Cheers,
Peter
 
any advice on which temp to get? 3000k or 5400 K?

edit to add:

Also, can I just get both bulbs and swap between them or is the fixture made specific for eith quartz or ceramic?

Yes, you can switch between the bulbs as the ballast will drive either one. Just choose the fresnel with one color temperature and then add another bulb of the opposite color temperature to your cart.
 
Just ordered the 150. I having trouble finding a suitable small case that can fit the light, ballast and cable. The Pelican 340 cube case is sort of what I'm after but is pretty expensive and too big for the light fixture. Can't find anything on Stormcase, SKB, etc. I have to go custom. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them.

Cheers,
Peter

Whatever you get, just make sure the fresnel is standing up with room for the yoke behind it. You just want to make sure that the yoke can't get driven into the fixture and scratch it. For instance, if it was laying on its side that would be bad and scratches would be sure to happen.
 
hey Richard, I just ordered a couple of these lights + 2 extra 3k bulbs and lightstands.. about an hour ago. Is it too late to change the order of the 2 extra bulbs to 5.4k instead. I figure it's better to have 2 extras of the same temp.

thanks
 
I cant wait to get mine! I noticed the paypay money cleared. Should I expect a "Your order shipped and here's your tracking #" email or do they just show up?
 
They'll be there tomorrow it looks like. No we don't have a tracking number system tied into our website. Since we get pretty busy sometimes, we don't supply a manual email with a tracking number except when people request it: they usually just ask and we supply the tracking numbers.
 
Just got em. Dont have time right now for a more formal review (packing bags for the LA screening of Aetas) but initial thoughts.

DAMN!!! Love em! Plugged one in and after a brief warmup period it definitely feels brighter than a 650. maybe its just because its daylight. I'm very happy to be able to feed Red the light it wants :-).

One thing I'm concerned about is that it looks like once you have the barndoors in that there wont be enough room for two scrims, I'll have to test it out and see.
 
Wish I could grab another pair of these suckers but I'm broke as hell. I dropped one on concrete yesterday right before I took it in to shoot an interview. This is the third time I've dropped this SAME CDM150...

That SOB fired right up without a hitch.
 
It'll be hard to break the 150w CDM head because there aren't any active components in there. The worst would be breaking the lens but we have inexpensive lens replacements in stock for these and that also work for Arri 650w too.
 
Richard,

How is the 575 par sport light coming along? Have you looked at cloning an 800 or 1200 par sport light?
 
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