CML: “How much colour control do you want in a lamp?”

Bern Caughey

Veteran
Interesting conversation going on over at CML. Added the original post below, plus a couple of the responses that stood out, but suggest reading the entire thread.

https://cml.news/g/cml-lighting/topic/how_much_colour_control_do/13271819

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“Talking to a manufacturer who is looking for input…
Bi-color is the rage, magenta/green & RGB is the talk BUT what do gaffers & DP’s really want?
Now OK, in an ideal world I want DMX control of RGB but in a real world, bearing in mind speed of operation and cost, I tend to feel that bi-colour plus a G/M axis shift is all I really need. In fact it’s simple and easily controllable.

What do you want? Bear in mind weight, speed of use and cost:)”

Cheers

Geoff Boyle NSC FBKS
Cinematographer
Zoetermeer

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“I'll put the science in here.

Bi-colour generally gives the best colour rendering, because the two or three phosphors used are broad-spectrum and don't leave any serious gaps. Adding a G/M shift is a real problem because it means that the basic white has to be made with a proportion of the G/M control, so the broad-spectrum bi-colours have to have a hole in green to make way for it, which isn't a natural thing to have (none of the luminaires of this type that I've measured score high in TLCI).

RGB etc is an effects lamp unless the R G and B are broad-spectrum: none of those I've measured score at all well when used to produce white.

So, we have a dilemma: good colour rendering means little control other than CCT, and good coloured effects means poor white performance. Any imrovement in this area is going to mean a significant hike in the cost of the units.”

Alan Roberts

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“Okay time to wade in here...

So I would like to just try and blow up this entire conversation for a second. There is no such thing as white light. There is only limited spectrum and full spectrum light sources, they are all colored. Secondly there is no longer any reason to use any single color temperature as the measurement point for valuing a light's performance, that was tied to limited white light photographic sensitivity for accurate color reproduction... color film stocks. Which is my way of saying you are all asking the wrong questions.

You should be asking for two things and two things only: spectrum and control. Forget the wide variety of numbers, letters and hyphenates we use to describe light sources, they are almost all marketing schemes from technologies and industries that have moved on. 3200K and 5600K are anachronisms of Kodak film stocks, green and magenta are camera filters you no longer use since the advent of DSLRs. They no longer accurately describe the majority of modern light sources nor camera sensitivities. "Daylight" color temp is a product of altitude, latitude, atmosphere and time of day. Moonlight on camera is an attempt to represent the relative experience of the human eye under low light conditions at night based on scotopic vision or how the rods in our eyes are more sensitive to certain wavelengths , and has no relationship to any scientific measurement of the spectral properties of daylight reflected off a giant dirt bounce card in the sky.

Which brings me back again to spectrum and control. As a photographer for motion or stills you want the light source with the greatest overall portion of the visible spectrum produced and with the ability to control aka limit that spectrum as needed for your emotional, aesthetic or technical goals. For a very long time the best way to do this was to take a incandescent light source, and have a large library of color gels. I have a shocking surprise for you. If you have ever lit something well using a gelled tungsten light, you have effectively lit for camera with a very low CRI source. For that matter there are plenty of bad RGB lights, bad bi-color lights, you can use garbage phosphors and you can have ugly but high CRI lights, etc. etc. If you buy a light because it renders colors at 3200K perfectly and use it in space with an average ambient color temp of 4500K for a camera with a sensor with a native sensitivity of 6500K, did that test matter and benefit you at all?

Spectrum and control, spectrum and control, spectrum and control after that economics and physics will always apply, its the manufactures job to give you as much of this as possible, and try to make a viable product by considering $ and size, but the rest of the number and letter soup is mostly noise.

Now get of my lighting lawn... “

Grumpy as ever

Jon Edward Miller
Chief Product Officer / Founder
@hivelighting
Los Angeles, CA USA
www.hivelighting.com
 
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I see little value in 5600-3200 lights, honestly I just shoot 5600 the whole time, sometimes dialed back to 4500 for a little warm.

On occasion I shoot for brands, who have 'their blue' and true control would be great.

So Im after..

5600 cheap bright

or

full skypanel style RGB disco floor control

Losing 4500 or 3200 means little to me as one can chuck on CTO or straw.. which doesnt melt under LED.

Offices with green windows. thats a thing I hit sometimes, again a mild green on the lamp seems no stress.

Overall I guess Im saying I cannot remember the last time I shot under pure tungsten.
 
I see little value in 5600-3200 lights, honestly I just shoot 5600 the whole time, sometimes dialed back to 4500 for a little warm.

On occasion I shoot for brands, who have 'their blue' and true control would be great.

So Im after..

5600 cheap bright

or

full skypanel style RGB disco floor control

Losing 4500 or 3200 means little to me as one can chuck on CTO or straw.. which doesnt melt under LED.

Offices with green windows. thats a thing I hit sometimes, again a mild green on the lamp seems no stress.

Overall I guess Im saying I cannot remember the last time I shot under pure tungsten.

With my Astra's, I probably shoot with them ~4300K most of the time. Because I'm usually trying to match indoor, overhead flo's. That's one of the things I love about them, I can pretty much match almost any ambient light with just the twist of a knob. No screwing around with gels.
 
For lights up to a certain size, I'd rather a smaller bi-colour LED than a larger unit that includes RGB (e.g. if it's the difference between arming it out on a c-stand vs. needing a more elaborate rig).

Once lights reach a certain size like skypanels, I'd probably prefer to include the RGB function in the light. I'm unaware how much space is needed to fit RGB into a light but this is my preference if given the choice.

LEDs are good at creating soft light, we get it. What needs to come next is easily controllable hard light. Have you noticed how LED photometrics often don't include results past a few metres? Then check out dedo or arri photometrics listing output past 10m. Maybe the LED replacement for an 800w joleko is still a long way away?
 
"I'll take Bi-Color LED's with separate LED's for RGB that can be added in the mix. All DMX, or app controllable."

Yup - and probably 90% of my work the past year has been done with that set up.

Maybe the LED replacement for an 800w joleko is still a long way away?

Seems that way... this is the one area I still lack. I continue to look for good used joleko until that LED ever hits the market...
 
I'll take Bi-Color LED's with separate LED's for RGB that can be added in the mix. All DMX, or app controllable.

I was thinking of the exact same set-up.

I was just watching a video on the Quasar rainbow LED tubes, because I've been wanting to add some to my normal crossfade tubes and it sounds like this is exactly what Quasar does to maintain good 'white light' rendition. They have separate RGB diodes and do not use them to create 'white light'.
 
I'm just waiting for SMD sources to mature a bit more. My Kamerar Brightcast panels are SMDs instead of bulbs and they work great with no output loss when dialing in a particular temp. They are cheap and consumerish though and would not hold up to rugged use.
 
I do not use lights as often as I used to but I do like being able to dial in to match ambient. Is that a full RGB need, probably not. I would love to see more power rather than DJ coloring effects.

Something that can mildly compete with the sun like 20,000 - 25,000 lux @ 1M that can run off AB bricks even for a short time would be very useful. I am on the budget end but basically 2.5x the output of the Aputure LS1 but similar size and handling.
 
I guess I worked out my thought on "what has changed"

Simply it is an age since I had to match tungsten - seems most location don't use tungsten.

Matching horrid led is now more important
 
I guess I worked out my thought on "what has changed"

Simply it is an age since I had to match tungsten - seems most location don't use tungsten.

Matching horrid led is now more important

Sam - what do you do when shooting night exteriors or interiors? Or completely controlled interiors that have numerous practicals (overheads, table lamps)? Seems like you'd be doing a lot of gelling.
 
I guess I worked out my thought on "what has changed"

Simply it is an age since I had to match tungsten - seems most location don't use tungsten.

Matching horrid led is now more important

At least tungsten was tungsten. LED's for commercial or home lighting can be all over the place. And on top of that sometimes the filter on the source that gives it the color temp, can fall off due to heat resulting in an ugly magenta light source.
 
At least tungsten was tungsten. LED's for commercial or home lighting can be all over the place. And on top of that sometimes the filter on the source that gives it the color temp, can fall off due to heat resulting in an ugly magenta light source.

Yep. And until recently, LED instruments intended for TV & "Film" could/would be all over the map, in regards to different manufacturers. They could look good by themselves, but when you mixed brands, you would immediately see the differences between them. I've just now started allowing myself to buy different brands of LED lights, because just a few years ago, it was pretty much a "fools errand" to try and use different brands of LED's in the same shot, especially if the purpose was to light people.

But on the consumer side it is still the wild west. I actually installed a few LED's in my home and the results are all over the place(all are "tungsten"). I put one in a lamp on the nightstand in my bedroom and it's yellowish/greenish. I installed a GE Reveal in a lamp in the front of the house and it's very magenta/pink. The best ones are actually the outdoor lights. I have one in the light on the front porch and I'd give it an 85-88 out of 100(the average person would think it's a real tungsten bulb), but the flood lights(which I believe actually have Cree emitters) look great. If I didn't know, I'd probably think they were actual tungsten lamps.
 
If you have an iPhone I would consider Adam Wilt's brilliant Cinemeter II a must have. For $25 you get a pretty damn accurate color meter that also works as a regular meter (incident or reflected) and reads foot candles. Its enabled me to measure my own LED lights and even household bulbs so I know what the heck I'm dealing with for the first time. I use the incident meter with a little paper hat (substituting for a flat disk), that I keep in my wallet so I have a color meter on hand all the time.
 
If you have an iPhone I would consider Adam Wilt's brilliant Cinemeter II a must have. For $25 you get a pretty damn accurate color meter that also works as a regular meter (incident or reflected) and reads foot candles. Its enabled me to measure my own LED lights and even household bulbs so I know what the heck I'm dealing with for the first time. I use the incident meter with a little paper hat (substituting for a flat disk), that I keep in my wallet so I have a color meter on hand all the time.

Care to share a photo of the paper hat? My only reluctance with purchasing Adam's app is not wanting to have to carry around the sphere - which I'm pretty sure I would misplace. If the hat is small enough to keep in wallet or phone case... I'll take the plunge.
 
Sam - what do you do when shooting night exteriors or interiors? Or completely controlled interiors that have numerous practicals (overheads, table lamps)? Seems like you'd be doing a lot of gelling.

Tungsten is basically illegal in the uk. You just won't find it used in quantity - I'm more likely to put in my personal 10w tungstens practical bulbs into a fixture than gel the yellow out

Since I got my Lupo light kit I'd say I've shot everything daylight.
 
Markfpv,
There's nothing to bother looking at . All I did was take a piece of 20 lb ink jet printer paper and folded a little piece that could drop over the top of the iPhone and scotch taped it on the ends - hence a "hat. " Its extremely low tech. I keep it in my wallet in a slightly larger little folded piece of paper also scotch taped on the end to protect it. I had the meter for over a year and bought 2 different LUXI's but found it a huge pain to carry them around so I never used it. One day I realized - "well why not make it like a flat disk with a piece of diffusion." I tried a few different types but found that with the printer paper my foot candle readings were close enough to match my old analogue combo 500's. You can get pretty much any white paper or diffusion to calibrate for color. I thought it was a brilliant idea till Adam told me he's been doing the same thing with 216 for years.
It's great to have the "hat " in your wallet because you're never without a meter. I tested it against an L-700 at NAB and it was pretty damn close. Depending on the type of light the green magenta axis might be off about 1/8 G or M and both the Kelvin and the FC was a dead match. I'm not going to say the Cinemeter was as accurate as the Sekonic, but Adam told me he's tested all those meters and even the best ones often differ on the G/M axis a bit, and the Kelvin could be off a few hundred degrees, but its close enough for me, and $25 in my wallet all the time beats a $1500 meter. I love it!

Morgan - I love you man, but I can't imagine always shooting daylight. I shoot different color temps all the time often warming up the key to get a nice cool background when I have a window or just to get some color contrast in all kinds of shots. Recently switched to Bicolor LED's and love being able to tune my shot on the fly for color . To me it often is what makes a shot come alive. But - different strokes for different folks. I know your stuff looks good.
 
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As most of my stock is used for multiple purposes, I'm currently buying RGBWAU washes that can be used for so many things. The white is a bit blue, but quite usable, but the colours for me are very useful - especially the green. I'm finding that using the green LED on green screen walls works pretty well and seems to work wonders with shadows from the usual front lights. The other colours for TV aren't so important apart from special effects, but that's about it.
 
Len
Thanks for the love :)

I meant my camera is 90% on 5500k or whatever that option is in s-log

Yep I often swing my lights temp using one of my panels on 4800 for a warm face or maybe 4000 as a golden hair light - my Dedos still get a lot of use often without thier ctb filters again for golden shafts or whatever and I also have a box of real tungsten practicals that get used.
 
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