China Ball Question

Thanks Jason. I agree it would be a lot more comfortable. Of course, talent learns very quickly to not look at the lights, but it would be hard to miss.
 
Ticonderoga said:
I tried both ways and I would say the diffusion of China Ball is very apparent compared to bare CFL's, so depending on usage China Balls could be necessary.

Two observations when I tried to construct China Balls in Hong Kong:
1. Despite the nickname finding China Balls in China is harder than one might think, because white lanterns are used solely for funeral affairs in the Chinese culture. Moreover since many Chinese would consider white lanterns as misfortune bearing I am not sure how appropriate their use would be in China.

2. Some very powerful CFL's are widely available in Hong Kong, as powerful as 500W tungsten equivalent; can one find something like that in Home Depot?
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If you go to a Chinese Lantern factory its not a problem and they'll make them in any material you like. I don't know if you have any in Hong Kong but there are many in China. We can get one made in any color or material we like and may do so soon if we can think up a unique design to offer.

A 125w would be the equivalent of a 500w tungsten and our Home Depot's still don't sell that high of a wattage. You have larger ones than that in Hong Kong, you just don't realize it. In the USA, we have to go to specialty stores to get them. The one I recommend to customers is a 200w (which gives out almost 800w worth of light) and it can be found here in 5000K:

[FONT=&quot]http://www.servicelighting.com/catalog_product.cfm?prod=MX35871[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]Or this one (which is a bit more expensive but is 5500K and CRI 90):[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]http://www.teksupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&storeId=10001&productId=65629&langId=-1&division=TekSupply&pageId=ItemDetail&parent_category_rn=&top_category=&breadcrumb_trail=Lighting+Fixtures+%26+Bulbs%7CLight+Bulbs&breadcrumb_categoryIds=35044%7C35054&isDoc=[/FONT]

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These use a mogul base so you need a fixture with a mogul base to use them. The E26 edison base units are rarely over 85w actual draw. After that, they start using mogul E39/E40 bases.
 
So I really dig the idea of using nylon lanterns in a rigid form (lantern lock) but $85! Yowsers! Barbizon is now selling them. Are there any other products or methods for such things?
 
Yes there are always alternatives. I have lots of people that write to me showing me their DIY solutions. After I posted some ideas last spring for what I wanted to do for an adjustable Chinese lantern harp, Ian Dart of Australia sent me pictures of his solution and told me I could display it. They're enclosed below. Looks pretty easy to put together. My idea was a bit different but either would work. My idea was a trombone like device that would allow adjustment of length to work with several different sizes of china balls. This one accomplishes the same thing by using a couple of long pieces of threaded rod, some nuts and a couple of metal plates. Don't forget to strain relief and seal off the E26 or mogul socket like he did. Really a pro job on that and should be completely safe to work with.
 

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thanks richard

thanks richard

thankyou richard for your kind words

as you can see i managed to register


the photo you showed is my solution to rigidly hanging a china lantern

i use avenger c stands as support with vatios size grip arms up to about

10 feet.... its advisable to use a few shot bags as the talent are adverse

to dodging falling gear

i like the rigid mount as it lets me hang it anywhere even upside down

at knee level

all the parts were purchased at bunnings wharehouse (a hardware chain)

and is made out of 1/4 threaded bar and aluminium and took about an hour

to make (the hardest part is filing down the rough edges to stop the lantern

from ripping

feel free to ask any questions


kind regards

ian dart
 
Ian -- is your frame actually holding the lantern open, or are you also leaving the stock, flexible wire thing in place? Perhaps a photo of your setup with a lantern on it would help.

Thanks.
 
ian dart said:
thankyou richard for your kind words

as you can see i managed to register

ian dart
Click to expand...


Ian,

Sorry it took me so long to get it out there. A lot of times, I wait until there's a good context or someone brings up a solution then I recommend based on either my own ideas or one like your's. Your idea is far more accessible than mine which really needs to be manufactured to make it work.

Jason,

I've included the other picture he sent me. I don't know if it gives you what you want. But I believe Ian would tell you he doesn't use the regular wire insert and that his solution is all that is necessary. Correct me if I'm wrong Ian...
 

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Last edited:
hi

hi

thanks richard


i have been so busy the last couple of months i hadnt got around

to following up with you


i used this rig last night in a restaurant scene we were using the 200

with the p and s adaptor jeez does that thing cut the light to the camera

i hung it right over the table just out of frame and backlit the actors with dedos

i still had to use a 2k blondie bounced off the roof to bring up the anbient


to answer your question the top and bottom plate hold the lantern open
they are just a little bigger than the holes in the lantern and sort of slide in
you will notice black gaffer on the bottom plate this is to create a soft padding
for the bottom of the lantern so it will not rip
the paper lanterns are prone to damage so it is best to have a few on hand
i would try nylon ones but they are hard to find in melbourne australia
you will notice nuts above and below the plates this allows the plates
to be moved up and down according to lantern size just by undoing the nuts
as the bar is threaded

i will try to post some pictures check out www.erwinfilms.com

i have done about four films for them and there are lots of photos

ian d
 
Okay, that makes more sense. I already have nylon lanterns, so I'll see what I rig up base on your stuff.
 
hi jason

to explain a bit clearer
the bottom plate is a bit smaller to fit easily thru the top hole of
the lantern
i have used wing nuts (1/4) on my other rigs as this makes it
easier to undo them to move the top plate up and down
the hole for the lamp fixture i drilled with a wood drill bit (not sure what they
are called) they are used to drill oversize holes thru wood but work ok
on aluminium and they make one the same size as the lamp holder
please ensure the lamp fixture is wired correctly preferably by an
authorised sparky as the human body makes a great earth loop

cheers
ian d
 
Wow, so glad this thread was revived! It just so happens that I just got my paws on some of the BTS stills from my shoot in April. Hopefully soon I'll have some stills and/or a trailer so you all can see how well they worked for us.
 

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ian dart said:
please ensure the lamp fixture is wired correctly preferably by an
authorised sparky as the human body makes a great earth loop
ian d
Click to expand...

Yes it does. We're over 75% water and water is one of the best conductors.

Ian showed a great example here of both hiding the connections and strain relief. Where on earth did you get a strain relieved and sealed Mogul base like that Ian? I looked everywhere and couldn't find a good one like that. That's perfect for this kind of thing but so rare to find.
 
IBEJohnson said:
Wow, so glad this thread was revived! It just so happens that I just got my paws on some of the BTS stills from my shoot in April. Hopefully soon I'll have some stills and/or a trailer so you all can see how well they worked for us.
Click to expand...

An A Frame house really makes a great set doesn't it? I never thought about that before. Plenty of room above for lighting and even have something a bit similar to a catwalk above there in the loft ;-)
 
great setup with the lanterns set and forget my sort of setup

i got the bases from an elecrical wholesaler in aus.. you can only get the
covered sort i think (have never found any uncovered ones) we have very strict
electical codes because we are running 240 volts.... and believe me its not fun
when you get careless and get zapped *@%$&**""<^&*^##%*
i also have an elecrical tie around the cable inside the housing for strain relief
although the grip head does all the supporting
and get the gear tested by an authorised sparky frequently
i have had my fair share of shocks and am basicly paranoid (read anal) around power
cheers
ian
 
We have the opposite problem here. It's really easy to find uncovered ones and not easy at all to find a covered one like the one you used--particularly with strain relief too.

I've been working with electricity since I was a teenager and one thing I've learned is you have to be particularly conscious of what's going on when you're working with it. You can't go on autopilot and think about other things too much or you can get a bad shock back to reality.

One thing I learned practically from the beginning and I still do it now is to touch energized things with the back of your hand when you're not sure about them or they're new. The reason for this is if you touch it with the palm side of your hand you can get a muscle spasm when you get shocked that may actually make you grip the energized device and get a serious and possibly fatal electrocution. Gingerly touching with the back of your hand won't protect you from a shock but at least you can quickly move away without fear of being compelled to grab onto the device during a shock.
 
hi richard

these lamp fittings are made of plastic type material and are suitable
only for lamps up to 200 watts.. with incandescents..... they dont handle
any higher wattage (i have actually had one melt with 200w lamp)
so i tend to run 5600 or 3200 flouros in them as there is no problem
with overheating

if you are using fittings without any terminal covering i would make up
a housing out of 25mm pvc tube with end caps to stop any nasty shocks
as a gaffer everything i use (c stands grip arms etc) is metal and as we all
know boys and girls metal is a conductor of electricity
cheers
ian d
 
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