Cheap wireless director's feed

Sorry, being dumb. Finally got it through my head that they are breaking it out from a mono output into a stereo input (on the camera). I however do not want a stereo input to my camcorders XLR. So, yah, a TS to XLR is the easiest way to go.
 
On some device outputs, the jacks are wired to support standard (stereo) HP use (dual mono.. the tip and ring terminals are tied together). If that's the case, a TS plug would short the output completely. Better to wire a TRS plug with the ring floated... Just what we need.. another custom cable
The G2/3 CL-100 output cable is wired this way, but the (moulded-on) locking plug's lock ring will not retract enough to be fully inserted into a standard 3.5 mm jack.
 
That is also a possibility. On this particular device though the TS works fine. I suspect on many consumer gear they use a "stereo" Dual mono out because there is going to be a ton of components (that are cheap) for "stereo" and hardly any for mono, so it's just cheaper/ easier to run the mono signal into both sides of a stereo output stage.

Still a good point since who knows what the bean counter decided was cheapest.
 
BTW this is no longer available. No sign they ever carried it so that probably explains the price, they were dumping them.

So good catch to whoever posted the original link.
 
Just the 'Boya, Monoprice or Rovo', name tag (sticker) appears different. A good deal for $20, 10 or less. $100? No thanks.
 
A follow up on the TRS to XLR cables I ordered for these.

Works fine with my camcorder, so far not working with the F4 recorder. I will try clipping the wire from pin-3* on the XLR (no access to the TRS) and shorting pin-1 to pin-3. According to info given in other posts, that should work.

Still to be checked is the frame delay of the sound.


*Note: if I just connected pin-1 and pin-3 I would be shorting out the receiver.
 
That should work. It's possible that just shorting would also work but it could cause problems or put a strain on the drive amp, possibly cause bleed, your plan is a better one.
 
Rewiring the cable as described above works perfectly on the Zoom F4. Getting a -20 dB signal at about 11 o'clock on the trim knob. In the computer that is showing 0dB VU on the mixer/interface. -12dB gets +7dB VU. (24/48 settings)

Considering the price the wireless sounds amazing. Even not considering the price it gives a good clear recording.

Actually, I did get a recording before the modification, found it on the SD card, but I was not getting any indication of a signal from the F4. Very strange.

Next step is to record a video and see what the sync looks like. It has been reported to be off about 16 frames. If that is consistant it can be easily corrected in post.
 
16 frames? Not sure who is getting that. I was getting 142 or so ms which translates to about 3.4 frames at 24fps.

It did change with distance but over 20ft or so it didn't change much. The range was something like 120ms to 142ms @0 - 20ft, and 142 - 147 @ 20ft - a couple of hundred feet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top