Came-TV Boltzen 55 watt fresnels?

doubledark said:
Eric
why " punching through a 4x4 with half frost" and not a softbox? (you can tell I'm a stills guy)
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Several things:

A 4x4 is probably a larger source (though there are some pretty big softboxes), for a softer light/more wrap.

There's also the freedom to pick the material, Eric chose half-strength Soft Frost. I don't why but my best guess is it only has about a fifth of a stop light loss. Which is helpful when using LEDs that aren't terribly bright.

There's also potential spill, which helps raise some of the ambient light levels in the room, reducing contrast. If you need to flag off the sides for more contrast, you have the freedom do that as well.

A softbox is like a permanently flagged diffusion frame with the strongest level of diffusion. Nice results, but less creative freedom. If a softbox gets you the look you want, though, who needs freedom?
 
+1
With a 4x4 you can move either the light or the 4x4 to change contrast. Leaving the fixture in its place and moving the 4x4 forward to the subject, the contrast will be softer.
With a bank, this is not an option.
 
Eric how are the blotzens mixing with the 120d? And the Ls1 for that matter. I'm really looking at the 120d as a versatile light. Although you are right about the cut on the blotzens lights, the barn doors just don't do it for me either.
 
Softboxes are not just a "Stills" thing, just as frames are not simply a Motion thing. Sometimes they are even used together, with a frame being placed in front of a Softbox.

ChimeraSilverBullet.jpg
 
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I still use my Chimera softbox especially with the 120D and Bowens mount. Actually nice to get back to using it again. So many different ways to soften light.
 
The problem is that there's not much light left by the time you've diffused a hundred-watt LED. Fine products, but more power is needed.
 
mproust14 said:
Eric how are the blotzens mixing with the 120d? And the Ls1 for that matter. I'm really looking at the 120d as a versatile light. Although you are right about the cut on the blotzens lights, the barn doors just don't do it for me either.
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The Boltzens are 5600K. The LS 1 (5500K) and 120D (6000K) I think the 120D is cooler that 6000K but and I say but...... They seem to work fine together. Since i'm diffusing them they tend to warm up a little making the boltzen cooler as you can see in the pic I posted. It doesn't bother me but YMMV.

I wish LED daylight was always a standard 5500K but they just aren't. Frustrating if you have ADHD. :-D I also wish I could afford to buy a Spectrometer. Really need on these days.
 
Phil Rhodes said:
The problem is that there's not much light left by the time you've diffused a hundred-watt LED. Fine products, but more power is needed.
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Jodi in studio.jpg

I used both a LS 1s and a 120D on this shot punching through a 1/2 soft frost and it was BRIGHT! had to knock the lamps down about 20%. Used the Boltzen for a fill on her left side. Looked great and was very happy with the results.
 
Looks nice. I don't mind if the rim light is a bit cooler/warmer than the key. Are you still using your softbox with the Ls1 or just the 120d for ease of use?
 
Looks good. I guess with the 120d most lights will be warm by comparison but thats a nice technique. Anyone know any good diy diffusion material for 4x4s?
 
So recently one of my Came-TV Boltzen 55's won't dim anymore. It only goes from 96% to 100%. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
mproust14 said:
Looks good. I guess with the 120d most lights will be warm by comparison but thats a nice technique. Anyone know any good diy diffusion material for 4x4s?
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I like 1/2 to full stop frost gel because it really spreads the light out also 1/2 stop grid cloth is nice. You have so many options so experiment with different types. The old frosted shower curtain is cheap and effective.
 
I just stopwatched an almost completely charged $12 chinese knockoff NP-F960 battery dialed to full power on my 55w Boltzen and got 32 minutes out of it. It didn't look like it dimmed with time, it just shut off. Battery level Meter on light flashed the battery was drained 10 minutes in but it kept going.
 
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Anyone compare these to the Litepanels Caliber?
Funny how no one mentions the litepanels caliber at all despite it coming out a year earlier.
 
Liam Hall said:
A little update on the Came TV Boltzen:

After six months in my kit bag my 55 watt Boltzen died. Buy cheap, buy twice...
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I had the battery pin push in on mine. I emailed them and they replaced it. They are really not as good as I had hoped. The fresnel lens doesn't cut clean. My main purpose was to use these for product shots or back lights.

Another annoying thing is it shipps without the yolk attached so when you put the yolk on the light it doesn't fit in the included case anymore. I'm not going to take the yolk off everytime I use it. Why?
 
Erik Naso said:
I had the battery pin push in on mine. I emailed them and they replaced it. They are really not as good as I had hoped. The fresnel lens doesn't cut clean. My main purpose was to use these for product shots or back lights.

Another annoying thing is it shipps without the yolk attached so when you put the yolk on the light it doesn't fit in the included case anymore. I'm not going to take the yolk off everytime I use it. Why?
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Agreed on all points.
 
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