Buying a Light Meter, get sekonic?

[Bobonli]

Here's a compelling reason, consistent with what Perrone wrote:

http://www.thec47.com/gearbox/l-308s.html

I have to admit that I'm puzzled (because I haven't thought about it much!) as to how to incorporate one into a workflow with an EX-1. Just what do you adjust once you take your meter reading?

But for DSLR work it makes perfect sense to use the incident meter to give you a more accurate reading than might be possible with the camera's reflected-light metering system. Relatively inexpensive when you consider the price of the camera, lenses, lights etc.

There's a follow up post on that meter, on that website a few days later.

 

[PerroneFord]

I have to admit that I'm puzzled (because I haven't thought about it much!) as to how to incorporate one into a workflow with an EX-1. Just what do you adjust once you take your meter reading?

Same thing you would on any other camera. Aperature or lighting.

The trick is to set your camera to the desired shutter speed and aperature (generally to obtain the desired DOF. Then adjust your lighting of the main subject so that the light falling on them causes the light meter to give the same F-Stop your camera is set for. Then you can meter other important objects in your scene. Something in the far background you want to be sure is visible. Any pracitcal lights, etc. You want to make sure that the brightest things in the scene (practicals) and the darkest things you want visible in the scene are within the latitude range of the camera you are shooting. A camera like the EX1 may give you 8-8.5 stops. A camera like the 5D might give you 7.

It is your job as DP to understand what the camera is capable of, and to keep the lighting of the scene within the ranges the camera can accomodate. If you are shooting a couple on the beach at sunset, and the sun is in the shot, then you had better find a way to reduce the contrast of that scene such the couple fall into the range the camera is capable of.

To me, this is no different than doing a film test when using a film camera. Every batch of film is slightly different, and you need to test it. As you change ISO on your EX1 or your 5D/7D or any other camera, the response is NOT linear. And you need to test each way you intend to use the camera. The EX1 doesn't have ISO's so you just need to be sure that when you are shoot 1080/24p your meter agrees with the camera, and when you change to 720/60p it STILL agrees. Here's a hint... it won't. I rate my EX1 at 400 ISO at 1080/24p and I rate it at ISO 320 at 720/60p. But test your own.

The 5D was pretty spot on around the 100-400ISO range, but when we had to push it beyond 640, I found that it was no longer linear in it's response. Fortunately, we didn't need to do that very often. In a camera like the 5D/7D, since it won't give you an HD signal out when recording, using it with scopes is very difficult, and a light meter is VERY handy.

But you guys do what works for you. I don't mind carrying my meter and using it. And it keeps me from having to drag around a dang cart with video scopes all over the place.

Here's a couple pics of me on set metering some of our tougher scenes:

 

[jimpatro]

Don'tcha just love a pancake as a soft key?

 

[male_man]

@Perrone What light meter do you recommend?

 

[PerroneFord]

@Perrone What light meter do you recommend?

I don't have a recommendation. Buy what you need. I use a Spectra IV. That fit my needs and my wallet. Some of the Sekonic's do more calculation and can compensate for gels on lights, and other factors. Some even have curves built in for the sensitivity of certain cameras. I didn't need that.

 

[Davdo]

Chalk one more up for using a light meter. While on video shoots I don't expose with the meter (I prefer the zebras for this), I meter every setup to check and maintain ratios. I've rated video cameras and I've found that assigning them an ASA equivalent is not consistent enough for exposure. The process is super easy, though. You light your scene with a meter in hand and then come back to the camera, expose for your key (or whatever) using the zebras and you're set.

Since I'm really just checking levels and not using the meter for any sort of complicated equations or anything like that, I use a simple analog Sekonic Studio Deluxe (currently a II) and I LOVE it. Pretty inexpensive but also very consistent. Also, no power needed. Definitely a good buy if you light like I do.

~~Dave