Phil Rhodes
Well-known member
Something I've discovered since I last posted on this thread is that the Nyrius-branded stuff is extremely sensitive to power starvation.
Mostly, as supplied, both transmitter and receiver require 5V DC power. Several times now I've used Recom DC/DC power converters to make these devices compatible with circa-12V camera power. This works perfectly fine, or at least it does until the batteries go flat and the Recom converter often pulses on and off at a rate of about once per second. Nyrius Aries series senders and receivers really, really don't like this, and I've now seen one of each be destroyed by it (the failure is one of the linear regulators which derive the 1.1V core supply for the underlying Amimon chipset and it isn't really fixable without a vacuum rework station, even if it hasn't destroyed the chipset into the bargain, which it probably has).
I should emphasise that this is not a trivial polarity error or something like that; these things worked for some time then abruptly stopped. They like a continuous supply and if they don't get it, they tend to emit all their magic blue smoke and stop working. Not to be a tool-blaming bad workman, but this isn't representative of exactly stellar work on the part of whoever put the PCBs together. It implies you could destroy one of these things just by switching the power on and off at a rate of about once a second.
Still, while they're cheaper than a Teradek, they're expensive enough that this is really quite annoying, and I hope my experiences might save someone from repeating them.
P
Mostly, as supplied, both transmitter and receiver require 5V DC power. Several times now I've used Recom DC/DC power converters to make these devices compatible with circa-12V camera power. This works perfectly fine, or at least it does until the batteries go flat and the Recom converter often pulses on and off at a rate of about once per second. Nyrius Aries series senders and receivers really, really don't like this, and I've now seen one of each be destroyed by it (the failure is one of the linear regulators which derive the 1.1V core supply for the underlying Amimon chipset and it isn't really fixable without a vacuum rework station, even if it hasn't destroyed the chipset into the bargain, which it probably has).
I should emphasise that this is not a trivial polarity error or something like that; these things worked for some time then abruptly stopped. They like a continuous supply and if they don't get it, they tend to emit all their magic blue smoke and stop working. Not to be a tool-blaming bad workman, but this isn't representative of exactly stellar work on the part of whoever put the PCBs together. It implies you could destroy one of these things just by switching the power on and off at a rate of about once a second.
Still, while they're cheaper than a Teradek, they're expensive enough that this is really quite annoying, and I hope my experiences might save someone from repeating them.
P
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