Big Lighting Tip For Beginners

cardmaverick

Well-known member
I hope this isn't too over your heads, but I thought I'd post this. If you don't get it right now, print this and save it. Keep refering back to it as you mature as a DP or Gaffer....I wish I had this tip when I was starting.

My incidnet readings look good, why does my image suck!?

Ok, well, first off, a little explanation about what each reading type is.

Incident Reading: This is light that actually falls onto an object.
Reflected Reading: This is how much light BOUNCES off a subject.

Helpful analogy: You throw 100 bouncy balls at hot model. 4 of the balls bounced back. You're incident reading would be 100 bouncy balls. The reflected reading would be 4 bouncy balls....She must be a REALLY dark skinned model, which leads me to my next point.....

In the world of video and film, and still photography there is a lot of talk about lighting ratios. Key light compared to fill light. This, as far as I'm concerned, is the one of the biggest sources of confusion for people who are new to lighting. Lets face it, its easier to understand Incident lighting, thats why lighting ratios are polluting the internet, heck, college text books......workshops, lectures, bla bla bla. Why do they create confusion? because people don't immediatly understand the utmost importance of reflectance.

A bright object is only bright if it BOUNCES lots of light

A dark object is only dark if it BOUNCES small amounts of light.

Therefore you can have too ojects, evenly lit to say a ratio of 1:1, and exposed using the meters suggested f/stop. Also, your shooting on DV. This is supposed to be a "good rato" and "good exposrue" one that will keep your blacks from being crushed and your whites from blowing out.....or at least thats what all those college books preach. However, after shooting it, you look at the footage on some waveform scope, and see that your whites are blown out and the blacks are crushed. "WHAT!?" you scream out loud. "But its a 1:1 ratio (insert crying, cursing, kicking monitor, general anger here)!"

The "WHY"

Ok, Fist off, All formats have whats called a "dynamic range" sometimes called "lattitude". This is simply how many different levels or brightness the format can see, or to be more technical, how many shades of gray it can reproduce. Each shade is twice as bright as the previous, or another way of saying it, each shade is half as bright as the one ahead of it. In the pro world, each "level" is measured as an f/stop, but for the sake of keeping this easy, I'll just call them brightness levels. With DV, your lucky if you get 5 levels of brightness, its more like 4.5 ish. My Nikon D70 can see a good 6 different levels or brightness. A really nice film stock can see as much as 11 brightness levels, so can the newest HD cameras if used properly.

Still hanging in there with me? Good.

Now that we have established that fact that each format can only see a limited numer of brightness levels, it's time to address the "Why" of lighting ratios, and why they are so misleading. The basic explanation is, drum roll please.....

It's just easy.

Thats it! It's just easy. Its a blanket statement and technique that assumes the whole freakin world only contains the limited number of brightness levels your format can handle. Thats why its so misleading.

Going back to my example above about the white and black objects being lit to a ratio of 1:1. If you measured the REFLECTANCE of each object, you know, how much light actually bounces off the object, you'll quickly see that it EXEEDS 5 brightness levels in difference. You're exposing for the middle level, therefore your balck ovbject is way crushed, and the white object is just glowing hot with no detail.

Get it?

Its not so much the light hitting a subject, but how much light it's throwing back that makes the big difference. Lighting and grip gear (flags, nets, scrims) only exist to help squeeze more "brightness levels" into what really amounts to a small, cramped amount of room.

Some common questions answered:

If Incident is so misleading, then why use it?

Well, here's a great example of why I actually LOVE incident readings. SPEED. Let's say you have a scene that takes several days to shoot, and its a location where you have to tear your lights down each day. A good DP will take plentiful notes on how bright certain areas of the set are with an incidnet meter. Combined with fixture placement notes, what originally took you two or three hours to light can now be reset in just 30 or so minutes with enough man power!

How do you determine the right f/stop to use if you measure with a reflectance meter?

I hate to say this, but thats another thread! Not too hard once you understand, but to properly explain, I'm just going to devote another thread to that topic.

Last Thoughts

I hope this helps some of you out, if your still a bit confused, leave a message. Like I said, I wish I had this explanation a long time ago....
 
Hi Chris

Great tips and thanks !

Do you have a reel we can see ? I checked out your site but cannot find any moving images ?

I'm just curious as to whom it is we are getting our advice from.

Thanks !
 
cardmaverick said:
I'll have to post some photos to illustrate my little essay. I always like explaining this stuff.

We need a resident Lighting expert; keep it coming ! Pictures are worth a thousand words !
 
Great info. Thanks for the quick lesson. Alot of us DV/HDV guys need a better understanding of lighting.
 
You don't trust this guy ?

zebra-eating-1.jpg
 
HAHA thats funny! In the example, well, like I said, I'm definantly going to post some photos. The white looks like off white. My example is pretty extreme. The white would be more like glossy white, and the black a deep black velvet (fabric balck hole as far as im concerend!)

Another Tip:

Hot forheads? Its the sweat that blows out a forehead. It makes the forehead more like a mirror, which reflects more light. Therefore makeup is used to help get rid of the shin, make it more matte and less reflective! Oh, its also called pancake last time I checked.
 
Chris,

Thanks for shedding some light on this topic :)

I am looking forward to more threads.

I gather from your explanations that it is imperative to get the blown out and crushed areas of the scene into the dynamic range of the camera by modifying the reflective light in the scene. Are there typical ways that you do this?

All I can imagine is that you would tone down hot spots and keep everything from overexposing on the high end so that you could raise the exposure level enough to avoid crushing the blacks.
 
I gather from your explanations that it is imperative to get the blown out and crushed areas of the scene into the dynamic range of the camera by modifying the reflective light in the scene. Are there typical ways that you do this?

Scrims, half scrims, diffusion, nets, flags, blackwrap or Neutral Density]
 
cardmaverick said:
Another Tip:

Hot forheads? Its the sweat that blows out a forehead. It makes the forehead more like a mirror, which reflects more light. Therefore makeup is used to help get rid of the shin, make it more matte and less reflective! Oh, its also called pancake last time I checked.

I'm not a technical guy but I do have some experience as a director. Your point raises an issue that no one ever talks about here: The importance of make up. And while I'm at it, I'll bring up a related issue, Wardrobe. Don't leave these areas to the talent or you girlfriend. I've had shoots ruined because of deficiencies in these areas.

great post though...
 
John Froton said:
I gather from your explanations that it is imperative to get the blown out and crushed areas of the scene into the dynamic range of the camera by modifying the reflective light in the scene. Are there typical ways that you do this?

John,

Its funny you brought this up. I'm planning on adding more to the article, hopefully in the next day or so. How much an object reflects is directly related to how much light hits it. The two are tied to each other. The big point though, was that not all objects reflect the same amount of light, thefore they look darker or brighter. Think about shades of color. They are the same color, but the darker shades reflect less light. If you want the lighter shade to look darker, just keep light off it, which causes it to reflect less....It's a little bit of a mind trip at first, but you'll get it. Hopefully I can get some really nice demo photos up to help show this.
 
brianluce said:
I'm not a technical guy but I do have some experience as a director. Your point raises an issue that no one ever talks about here: The importance of make up. And while I'm at it, I'll bring up a related issue, Wardrobe. Don't leave these areas to the talent or you girlfriend. I've had shoots ruined because of deficiencies in these areas.

great post though...

Brianluce,

Wardrob is imperative to the DP. All clothes must be tested by the DP. A great example is Lord of the Rings. Aragorn is supposed to have an olive green coat. The costume designer didn't want to change fabric like the DP suggested, end result....Aragorn looks like he has a BLACK coat on.......the olive green got buried in the toe of the film, thus appearing black on screen. She should have listened..... :)
 
Incident readings and knowledge of the photometric properties of the sources is but one method of setting lighting. I typically use a half ball incident meter to set lighting ratios, but fine tune with a narrow (1 degree) spot meter after getting the instruments set.

Based upon the camera (and film stock or sensitivity/gain setting) I first pick a key level that is somewhat (1/2 to 1 stop) above my minimum for the chosen t-stop and lens combination. Once confirmed, I then start to place the fill and other lesser instruments. With the slight over head that I have given myself, I then have a bit of room to allow me to start carving with scrims, nets and diffusion. Nothing worse than getting an instrument set and then by the time you are done making adjustments discovering that you didn't start out with enough light!

I would be interested to learn your techniques and choices of tools and I fully agree about wardrobe issues, the DP nearly always has input on these areas as well.
 
CardMaverick,

this is great ! This is the type of info I need. Any tutorials coming soon? I't be great to have some stuff to work from.

Thanks.

Majormorgan
 
majormorgan said:
CardMaverick,

this is great ! This is the type of info I need. Any tutorials coming soon? I't be great to have some stuff to work from.

Thanks.

Majormorgan

Yes, I have quite a few tutorials/Essays brewing. I can't say when or how I'll release them, as I'm really busy cutting some Travel Channel shows right now (I also work freelance as an Avid Media Composer editor....). I plan on making them better than the one I recently typed up. I may actually host them on my site for the sake of more control over the design and just post links here at DVXuser. People can make comments here, read there. I have plans for embedding video, etc...make it real nice to look at and follow along. Thanks for the comments.

Last question. Was it easy to understand? I hope I explained it well.
 
Great tutorial! I have to add my $0.04 too! Chris did an excellent job of explaining two ratios: 1.) subject contrast and 2.) lighting ratio. The combination of subject contrast x lighting ratio = overall "scene contrast." Every imaging system has a maximum imaging ratio, and I believe Chris is about right with his 4.5-stop estimate for video. Our job as DPs is to reduce our given "scene contrast" ratio to exactly accomodate the (typically) smaller contrast-handling ratio of a given imaging system. If a given daylight exterior scene contrast ratio is 5000:1, you'll need the appropriate silks and HMIs to reduce that ratio to something your imaging system can capture.
 
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