Bi-Color Aputure 600x

Newsshooter article as well - https://www.newsshooter.com/2021/08/11/aputure-announces-bi-color-ls-600x-pro-and-59-light-dome-150-plus-price-reductions/

Nice, vague output numbers as usual!

I'm probably more interested in this version than the daylight one. What about you?

Follow up questions:

- Have you been using your 600d at 100% brightness most of the time?

- Is the front heavy fresnel still bothering you?

- Do you think the brake will wear out anytime soon?

I've definitely used my 600d at 100%, and have used it combined with another rented 600d for some situtations with windows, also at 100%.

No issues yet with the brakes and the fresnel. However, I don't own the barn doors yet, and from what I've heard, that's where it gets very front heavy.

Yes, I'd love to have a 600x, but most situations that I've needed tungsten balanced light have worked ok with the 300x in terms of output.

I'm on the fence about getting a 600x or a Prolycht Orion next. Currently, I have a 600d, 300d mk2, 300x, and 2x LS60x. The latter have been incredibly useful!

I have no RGB lights yet. It would be useful to have at least one or two fixtures, so the Orion may be the next fixture. All that said, what I really want is bi-color with green/magenta control. In large spaces that have tungsten fixtures ( I just shot an interview on stage in a large concert hall with the empty hall as the background. Lot's of 2700k-ish fixtures in the space. Looks great, but they were much more magenta than my 300x. Ended up gelling a bit minus green to get closer, but it would be nice to have that control built in for situations like this, when I need to tune the background in a tunsgsten space that is not easy to light from scratch.

Gelling the 600d at higher power levels is not trivial, especially if using a dome. It will melt the gel in the standard gel holder that aputure sells. In this way, the 600x is useful.

This is from a recent test using a 600d three headed dragon in a beautiful but very challenging space. All three fixtures were at 100%. The problem in these scenarios is not just getting enough level, but also whether or not it will be comfortable for talent. This was a music rehearsal, but we also tested for sit-down interviews. Getting enough level was fine, but keeping it reasonably comfortable for talent without making them squint and get a headache was problematic, so we ended up picking a different angle and shooting earlier in the morning when there is more fog and overcast in SF. Worked very well with just one 600d in a dome, again at 100%.

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I've definitely used my 600d at 100%, and have used it combined with another rented 600d for some situtations with windows, also at 100%.

No issues yet with the brakes and the fresnel. However, I don't own the barn doors yet, and from what I've heard, that's where it gets very front heavy.

Yes, I'd love to have a 600x, but most situations that I've needed tungsten balanced light have worked ok with the 300x in terms of output.

I'm on the fence about getting a 600x or a Prolycht Orion next. Currently, I have a 600d, 300d mk2, 300x, and 2x LS60x. The latter have been incredibly useful!

I have no RGB lights yet. It would be useful to have at least one or two fixtures, so the Orion may be the next fixture. All that said, what I really want is bi-color with green/magenta control. In large spaces that have tungsten fixtures ( I just shot an interview on stage in a large concert hall with the empty hall as the background. Lot's of 2700k-ish fixtures in the space. Looks great, but they were much more magenta than my 300x. Ended up gelling a bit minus green to get closer, but it would be nice to have that control built in for situations like this, when I need to tune the background in a tunsgsten space that is not easy to light from scratch.

Gelling the 600d at higher power levels is not trivial, especially if using a dome. It will melt the gel in the standard gel holder that aputure sells. In this way, the 600x is useful.

Thanks for the notes and photos ozmorphosis, triple header to the rescue. I can't see single colour temp or bi-colour lights also including +/-green, do any exist? Longer term, you might have to go with full colour lights to satisfy your in-light hue requirements? I can see a future where there are daylight only monsters and full-coloured lights, with bi-colour lights dropping in popularity?

You've got quite the COB collection. Do you reach for your 300d ii or 300x more?
 
As much as I love all the functions built into the Orion 300 FS, I think the standard CCT mode when one knob dials color temp. from 2000 - 20,000 and another dials +/- green is by far the most useful for 99% of the time.
 
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Thanks for the notes and photos ozmorphosis, triple header to the rescue. I can't see single colour temp or bi-colour lights also including +/-green, do any exist?
I own the original Fiilex Matrix - which is bi-color and has green / magenta dial as well. And agree with Mitch and you that this is far more useful for 99% of my work (usually unable to completely control all existing practicals) than having the effects and HSI color modes.
 
I own the original Fiilex Matrix - which is bi-color and has green / magenta dial as well. And agree with Mitch and you that this is far more useful for 99% of my work (usually unable to completely control all existing practicals) than having the effects and HSI color modes.

Oh yeah, same with their P360S, which I've used and is pretty handy. We can't sleep on Fiilex, the dark horse.
 
Thanks for the notes and photos ozmorphosis, triple header to the rescue. I can't see single colour temp or bi-colour lights also including +/-green, do any exist? Longer term, you might have to go with full colour lights to satisfy your in-light hue requirements? I can see a future where there are daylight only monsters and full-coloured lights, with bi-colour lights dropping in popularity?

You've got quite the COB collection. Do you reach for your 300d ii or 300x more?

I reach for them similarly, but probably a bit more for the D model.

As others have mentioned, there are lights with +/- green, but hardly ubiquitous. Nonetheless, my insistence is that the need is fairly ubiquitous. It's extremely rare that I get to light something 100% from scratch. And frankly, with the exception of black box theatres, just about every space has walls with different tint, etc. Being able to white balance your key so that it shifts your BG in a flattering or creatively driven way is something that I end up wanting pretty much every single time I show up to an indoor shoot. Bi-color is great. Control over two axis is even better. RGB is more a stylistic thing, not a situational location based need. Totally valid, but less about solving problems. Not that your asking me about the RGB factor. I only bring that up because most manufacturers are puting out +/- green only on RGB (W) fixtures. I'd like to see us move beyond that into fixtures that maximize output while having two axis control.
 
As much as I love all the functions built into the Orion 300 FS, I think the standard CCT mode when one knob dials color temp. from 2000 - 20,000 and another dials +/- green is bar far the most useful for 99% of the time.

Exactly what I was thinking. Now, where's that Orion 600?!? ; )
 
Exactly what I was thinking. Now, where's that Orion 600?!? ; )

Hey, give us a chance to breath. We only released the Orion 300 FS a couple months ago! Besides, I'm sure there are plenty of situations where one might rather have a pair of Orion 300 FS units instead of a single (theoretical) 600w one.
 
Hey, give us a chance to breath. We only released the Orion 300 FS a couple months ago! Besides, I'm sure there are plenty of situations where one might rather have a pair of Orion 300 FS units instead of a single (theoretical) 600w one.

Mitch to continue theorizing, if Prolycht were to have us over for dinner where we met the entire family, would the other family members be a 60w and 600w?

Remember just a theoretical scenario..
 
Theoretically, the Orion 300 FS would not come from a broken home. There would be a very complete family tree on both sides, the spot lights and the panels. There would be spots bigger than the Orion 300 as well as ones smaller, and different sizes of panels as well. There may be some other variations in there as well and we shouldn't forget the family pet. Lots of rooms for the family to spread out over time.

Of course, the Orion 300 FS just traveled to the Big City to earn lots of money that it can send back to the family so they can come over too. The more money the Orion 300 FS earns the faster the rest of the family comes over as well, so y'all may want to consider hiring this hard worker so that its family can come work for you soon.
 
Theoretically, the Orion 300 FS would not come from a broken home. There would be a very complete family tree on both sides, the spot lights and the panels. There would be spots bigger than the Orion 300 as well as ones smaller, and different sizes of panels as well. There may be some other variations in there as well and we shouldn't forget the family pet. Lots of rooms for the family to spread out over time.

Of course, the Orion 300 FS just traveled to the Big City to earn lots of money that it can send back to the family so they can come over too. The more money the Orion 300 FS earns the faster the rest of the family comes over as well, so y'all may want to consider hiring this hard worker so that its family can come work for you soon.

I can't argue with that! I'll be picking one up pretty soon.
 
I often use my two Aputure 600Ds at full power, so I appreciate all the brightness I can get. The 600X may be tempting for it's versatility if I were to add a third 600. I'll likely add a Nanlux 1200 if Aputure or Mitch don't come out with a higher powered light soon.

Mitch, Orion 1800w or go home.
 
We did a test with that Nanlux 1200 and I put in a pre-order the next day. Really nice quality of light, and lots of power!
 
I reach for them similarly, but probably a bit more for the D model.

As others have mentioned, there are lights with +/- green, but hardly ubiquitous. Nonetheless, my insistence is that the need is fairly ubiquitous. It's extremely rare that I get to light something 100% from scratch. And frankly, with the exception of black box theatres, just about every space has walls with different tint, etc. Being able to white balance your key so that it shifts your BG in a flattering or creatively driven way is something that I end up wanting pretty much every single time I show up to an indoor shoot. Bi-color is great. Control over two axis is even better. RGB is more a stylistic thing, not a situational location based need. Totally valid, but less about solving problems. Not that your asking me about the RGB factor. I only bring that up because most manufacturers are puting out +/- green only on RGB (W) fixtures. I'd like to see us move beyond that into fixtures that maximize output while having two axis control.

I agree, more two Axis tunable bi-color lights would be great to see! I think what Fiilex was doing was really cool with the super small COB chips that had that capability. Unfortunately they have pretty much discontinued that technology entirely and now only make the full colour RGBW style hard lights… I suppose they decided that RGBW could do everything of the old tech + more… (but yes, output reduced per watt)

Another one is Mole Richardson, their Vari-color fresnels also have a modest +\- green control…

Can’t really think of any others?

The saving grace is that a 1/4 +/- green correction gel generally still transmits 90% of light… so subtle corrections won’t cost you too much output…. Major adjustments may be a different story though… hmm

Edit: Can also add the Broncolor F160 LED to the list of +\- green bi-Color LED lights. Have never really heard much about this one..
 
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