Best LED Fresnel Equivalent to an Arri 300 watt Fresenel

puredrifting

Major Contributor
Hi all

Have pretty much settled on the Aputure 120D MKII as my new key light. But what about smaller fresenels for lighting backgrounds, making cuts with barn doors, punching through a cucloris. You know, a small
Utility LED fresnel?

The Came TV Boltzens are too weak, as are the Aputure 20 series. Looking for something with about half the output of the 120D in a smaller fresnel. 120D is too large and costly for buying two or three to make a kit. Are any of the Yongnuo or Nanguang fresenels any good?

What are you using for this? Same relative output as an Arri 300. Hair light, rim light, background utility fresenel but in LED daylight with a decent lens?
 
Hi all

Have pretty much settled on the Aputure 120D MKII as my new key light. But what about smaller fresenels for lighting backgrounds, making cuts with barn doors, punching through a cucloris. You know, a small
Utility LED fresnel?

The Came TV Boltzens are too weak, as are the Aputure 20 series. Looking for something with about half the output of the 120D in a smaller fresnel. 120D is too large and costly for buying two or three to make a kit. Are any of the Yongnuo or Nanguang fresenels any good?

What are you using for this? Same relative output as an Arri 300. Hair light, rim light, background utility fresenel but in LED daylight with a decent lens?

Not as current but since you're after a decent budget option, check out these threads if you haven't already:
- http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?358886-Dedo-Dled-Substitute
- http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?355318-LED-Fresnels-that-cast-sharp-shadows

I linked this light - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CRI-80W-LED-light-With-V-mount-Ball-Diffuserfor-camera-photography-lighting-/332685618744?oid=142470704656
 
Seems like a very bright, versatile unit. However, and this is nit picking, the B&H Photo page calls this unit a Fresnel, and the video in the link above lists it as a portable Fresnel, when it doesn't have a Fresnel lens at all. Just a standard convex lens. I guess Fresnel is one of those marketing bullet point, click bait words.
 
Seems like a very bright, versatile unit. However, and this is nit picking, the B&H Photo page calls this unit a Fresnel, and the video in the link above lists it as a portable Fresnel, when it doesn't have a Fresnel lens at all. Just a standard convex lens. I guess Fresnel is one of those marketing bullet point, click bait words.

Good point. I think this current state of marketing is appalling. But why strive for accuracy and integrity when there are next to zero repercussions for being inaccurate and less-transparent? Voting with your wallet is a mug's game in 2019..
 
Good point. I think this current state of marketing is appalling. But why strive for accuracy and integrity when there are next to zero repercussions for being inaccurate and less-transparent? Voting with your wallet is a mug's game in 2019..

I like the new Dos Equis commercial, “... you could tell the truth, or a better version of it”.
 
https://cn-vision.com/detail/intell...-fresnel-light-kit-for-video-1Bq84Ke6Qdw.html

Something from Fiilex if enough power (P series) or higher end models if in your budget could work. Perhaps a used Fiilex P series if you want something lower cost with really good light quality and fairly small package (have the P360EX and the Fresnel and dome drop-ins- really excellent light).

Thanks JCS. The Intellytech Pocket Cannon looks interesting but that power supply/controller setup looks like just as big of a PITA as they are on my Aputure Lightstorms. Also, from the B&H User comments, "Given that its not a true Fresnel, you don't get a clean cut from the barn doors." That alone rules it out for me, definitely need the ability to get clean cuts with the barndoors.

I reviewed the Fiilex Q8 Travel last year for HD Video Pro and I liked it overall although it was big, heavy and realtively fragile seeming if it ever fell but I guess you could say the same of almost all LEDs. I'll have to check their models and prices for their lower end stuff. I'd really like to avoid the separate power supply and multiple cable mess if possible, not sure how many Arri 300 sized LED true fresnels there are on the market. Needs a real fresnel lens to give you the beam and ability to cut with barndoors well, I'll check out what they have in the $300.00 range, if anything.
 
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Looked at the Practilites, they look like exactly what many of us are looking for, nicely built, great beam, real fresnel lens, nice app. Unfortunately they are also close to $1,000.00 ea. so that isn't workable as an Arri 300 replacement and would, in fact, cost much more than my 120D II key source. It sounds like what we all want are the features of the Practilite at $400.00 ;-)
 
Every so often, I decide what I really need is an LED fresnel. I then do a deep dive into the current reviews of lights and try to reinterpret the misleading claims about lenses, and power, and beam angles, and fan noise, and color accuracy, etc. After awhile, I realize that the cost to performance to size ratio still doesn't make sense relative to working with HMI or tungsten. I still think it might be a few years out before I see something that is a good replacement.
 
A 300watt equiv fresnel LED at the price of a tungsten unit is what we are all looking for. Really tired of what manufactures are called "hard lights" or "fresnel-like" today. When I want a sharp shadow in a small environment, I want a sharp shadow!!

I just found the box one of my two LTM Pepper 200's came in... that I bought in college in 1987!!! Those lights are still going strong in 2019, but I blow bulbs just transporting them to shoots sometimes and tire of the "rattle" in the crates. Interestingly, they are still for sale new at B&H for about the same price I paid in '87.

Another beef I have with modern LED units is the reliance on "apps"... They work fine today, but that app won't be available in 5 years without constant upkeep from the programmers, and certainly the phone/device it runs on in a few years after that if development stops. I know, look at all the cool things you can do now... RGB lighting effects, remote operation, I don't dispute that. But lights used to be firmly in the camp of solid multi decade + film tool investments, like c-stands and grip gear... now, I don't know... they seem to be becoming very expensive "expendables" with the life-span of the digital cameras they work along side of...
 
Thanks JCS. The Intellytech Pocket Cannon looks interesting but that power supply/controller setup looks like just as big of a PITA as they are on my Aputure Lightstorms. Also, from the B&H User comments, "Given that its not a true Fresnel, you don't get a clean cut from the barn doors." That alone rules it out for me, definitely need the ability to get clean cuts with the barndoors.

I reviewed the Fiilex Q8 Travel last year for HD Video Pro and I liked it overall althgough it was big, heavy and realtively fragile seeming it it ever fell but I guess you could say the same of almost all LEDs. I'll have to check their models and prices for their lower end stuff. I'd really like to avoid the separate power supply and multiple cable mess if possible, not sure how many Arri 300 sized LED true fresnels there are on the market. Needs a real fresnel lens to give you the beam and ability to cut with barndoors well, I'll check out what they have in the $300.00 range, if anything.

The P360 EX (now Pro) has a very small power supply- the light can run from a battery source. The light quality is excellent (97 CRI), variable temp / output (smooth change), relatively quiet fan, and is one of my favorite lights (packs very small too). There's a drop-in Fresnel available, as well as a 5" variable Fresnel lens: http://fiilex.com/products/Accessories_5_Inch_Fresnel.php , https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1332086-REG/fiilex_flxa081_5_fresnel_zoom_lens.html . Not the lowest cost solution, but one of the higher quality / sexier ones for sure!

EDIT: The Pro Plus is exactly what you're looking for (300W eq.), small, light, super high quality, tiny PS, 12-30v battery power-able, IP-24 weather resistant. Only question is budget: http://fiilex.com/products/P360_ProPlus.php
I use the $59 drop in Fresnel, though the $350 5" variable lens looks pretty excellent. After using Fiilex level gear, you won't want to use the less well-engineered/designed gear so much, so beware :)
 
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The P360 EX (now Pro) has a very small power supply- the light can run from a battery source. The light quality is excellent (97 CRI), variable temp / output (smooth change), relatively quiet fan, and is one of my favorite lights (packs very small too). There's a drop-in Fresnel available, as well as a 5" variable Fresnel lens: http://fiilex.com/products/Accessories_5_Inch_Fresnel.php , https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1332086-REG/fiilex_flxa081_5_fresnel_zoom_lens.html . Not the lowest cost solution, but one of the higher quality / sexier ones for sure!

EDIT: The Pro Plus is exactly what you're looking for (300W eq.), small, light, super high quality, tiny PS, 12-30v battery power-able, IP-24 weather resistant. Only question is budget: http://fiilex.com/products/P360_ProPlus.php
I use the $59 drop in Fresnel, though the $350 5" variable lens looks pretty excellent. After using Fiilex level gear, you won't want to use the less well-engineered/designed gear so much, so beware :)

Yeah, cool light but $1,000.00??!?! not worth it for my needs. I can just keep using my Arri 300s and play with gels.
 
...But lights used to be firmly in the camp of solid multi decade + film tool investments, like c-stands and grip gear... now, I don't know... they seem to be becoming very expensive "expendables" with the life-span of the digital cameras they work along side of...

LED lights definitely aren't investments, they are expendables. That's why I bristle at spending $1,000.00 for a small LED fresnel. There will be something twice as good for half as much within months. It's also why I bought the Aputure LS-1S Lightstorms instead of something like an Arri Skypanel. Disposable. If I can get 3-4 years out of any of my current LEDs, I'm good.
 
I picked up the P360EX almost 3 years ago- there's still nothing better for less. The latest P series might have bumped power/CRI, however not enough change to warrant upgrading. I spent over $1200 and $1000 for Dracast bicolor and daylight panels- massively better build quality vs. Aputure (I have two LS1s and one LS1/2), however the the CRI is well below Aputure. So now they live as fancy studio lights (to light the room, not talent ;) or bounce/ambient fill. Fiilex is as good are better with color vs. Aputure, superior build quality, and very smooth bicolor / level control (vs. stepped).

HOLD the PRESS! $339 for the P360EX on sale, $256 discount! (probably close out for the newer P360Pro/Plus): https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1021433-REG/fiilex_flxp360_p360_90w_led_light.html

Buy 3, seriously you won't regret it at that price. The little $59 Fresnel insert is also useful, as is the $59 diffuser dome.
 
A 300watt equiv fresnel LED at the price of a tungsten unit is what we are all looking for. Really tired of what manufactures are called "hard lights" or "fresnel-like" today. When I want a sharp shadow in a small environment, I want a sharp shadow!!

Not me, my BBS area 48 is still going strong after 3 years. I'd rather eat the cost of a better light like the Filex's which are quite good than constantly buy and sell garbage.
 
Not me, my BBS area 48 is still going strong after 3 years. I'd rather eat the cost of a better light like the Filex's which are quite good than constantly buy and sell garbage.

Remote phosphor is on a different level...

My first point lights were a Savage two light kit (used for still photography). Had to -green (+magenta) gel them to help with the poor CRI (green bias). Even gelled, skin tones weren't great. Later I figured I could use them for green screen since they're already green! However the jet-engine-at-take-off fans made that impossible. However after some transplant surgery and soldering, ultra-quiet PC fans made them usable for green screen on video. Sure at full power they run a bit hotter than the stock fans (checked with a laser thermometer), however I never run them at full power to light the green screen (near the lowest setting) and I was going to donate/give them away (my first CFL lights were donated to an actor friend- can't really sell this low end stuff when it's older).
 
LED lights definitely aren't investments, they are expendables. That's why I bristle at spending $1,000.00 for a small LED fresnel. There will be something twice as good for half as much within months. It's also why I bought the Aputure LS-1S Lightstorms instead of something like an Arri Skypanel. Disposable. If I can get 3-4 years out of any of my current LEDs, I'm good.

I think they're short term investments. You're also investing in things like the looks you can create, delivering a smooth client experience - speed, staying current with trends etc. Some make money on skypanels, others don't. There's at least a chance with higher end LEDs to make $$ but you need to be more careful. With budget LEDs, I agree they're expendable as in they have a short life cycle before potentially being rendered useless. But I don't think low cost LEDs are expendables in the film sense because you can at least make money on expendables, depending on expectations, versus low end LEDs giving a pretty poor rental/line item rate, if at all.
 
Remote phosphor is on a different level...

My first point lights were a Savage two light kit (used for still photography). Had to -green (+magenta) gel them to help with the poor CRI (green bias). Even gelled, skin tones weren't great.

Because they were missing important parts of the spectrum. Putting a gel(filter) in front of them to filter out another part of the spectrum doesn’t add back in what’s missing to begin with(and now you’re working with even less color[spectrum]). The green push is one of the biggest things I hated about early and cheap LED’s. Even today, some expensive ones still aren’t great. I have two Nila’s, which are arguably good quality lights, but they still have to have at least an 1/8 or 1/4 minus green, especially if working with other sources.

I have a lot of LED’s that I really like, now, and I have more money tied up in LED’s than I ever have in lighting before, but they still can’t make skin look as nice as good ‘ole tungsten. If nothing else matters except how the person ultimately looks on-camera, one of my couple hundred dollar Arri 750 openface tungsten lights in a 2’x3’ Chimera is better than one of my multi-thousand dollar Gemini’s in the 2’x3’ softbox.
 
I don’t look at any of our gear as investments. You’re never going to be able to sell any of it down the road at anywhere close to what you paid for it, much less at a profit(Lord, if only I could sell my gear for what it’s insured for...). You’re buying tools today to help you do a job to help you make money. Yeah, it doesn’t sound as sexy and classy, but cameras and lights aren’t investments, they’re tools.
 
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