Christopher S. Thompson
Member
Hello, all!
I am about to embark on another feature film project, and I would like to produce both a 2D and a 3D cut. I'm torn on how best to approach it, because of the innate differences between shooting for 2D and shooting for 3D.
For example, when you shoot 3D, you have to be very careful with your over-the-shoulder shots and anything else that might constitute an edge violation. You also need to avoid shallow DOF shots in order to keep things from looking like a pop-up book. On the other hand, some of those things are desirable in order to make the 2D version work.
Right now, the only options I see are to shoot for 3D and then throw away one of the "eyes" for the 2D version, or to actually shoot every scene with both a 2D and a 3D rig. Doing that simultaneously could get tricky because you probably wouldn't be able to frame the shots up in the same way. Maybe using different takes for the different rigs? That could lead to the versions being very different movies in the end, but maybe that is a good thing?
If anyone has an opinion, or some experience with this, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!
Chris
P.S. & F.Y.I.: The 3D rig would be a Panny Z10000, and the 2D rigs could potentially be a mixture of HVX200A, HPX170, AF100, GH2, and Canon T2i.
I am about to embark on another feature film project, and I would like to produce both a 2D and a 3D cut. I'm torn on how best to approach it, because of the innate differences between shooting for 2D and shooting for 3D.
For example, when you shoot 3D, you have to be very careful with your over-the-shoulder shots and anything else that might constitute an edge violation. You also need to avoid shallow DOF shots in order to keep things from looking like a pop-up book. On the other hand, some of those things are desirable in order to make the 2D version work.
Right now, the only options I see are to shoot for 3D and then throw away one of the "eyes" for the 2D version, or to actually shoot every scene with both a 2D and a 3D rig. Doing that simultaneously could get tricky because you probably wouldn't be able to frame the shots up in the same way. Maybe using different takes for the different rigs? That could lead to the versions being very different movies in the end, but maybe that is a good thing?
If anyone has an opinion, or some experience with this, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!
Chris
P.S. & F.Y.I.: The 3D rig would be a Panny Z10000, and the 2D rigs could potentially be a mixture of HVX200A, HPX170, AF100, GH2, and Canon T2i.