Bescor LED-60aak - thoughts?

Seems a great deal. How bright is it ?? It says an equivalent brightness to a 60W bulb.
A 60W bulb, and I am assuming they meant a 60W household filament frosted bulb ( a halogen would be better), and if that is really equivalent to a lowly 60 watt, then what we have here is UFO alien technology that can convert 1.2 amps from 4 paltry AA's (6VDC)to output approximately 1200 lumens ( don't forget 100 watt filament is 1700 lumens (wikipedia :incandescent bulb, 3/4 down the page). Now they rate the unit in lumen value of 384. That is WAY BELOW any type shape or form of any 60 watt incandescent bulb. Also, at what distance was that lumen figure measured at ??
In my opinion, that light, according to the 384 lumen value ( without the light robbing amber color correction filter on it ) would be in the area of a 20 to 25 watter at best. I love to see the resultant output with a CC filter AND diffuser attached. Perhaps a 12 watter. ???
 
Found this on the Bescor website - a description of their LED 60x - which appears to be a similar/identical light (except the batteries are inside the unit):

"Bescor is proud to introduce our newest LED light the LED-60X. The LED-60X is a 9.6oz (with batteries inside) compact twin LED system light. The twin 3 watt LED bulbs generate a color temperature of 7000°K and has an output equivalent to a halogen 60 watt bulb. The light includes both a clear frosted filter as well as a 4500°K amber filter. The unit includes a 6V 1.5a power input jack on the backside. The light is powered by 4 AA batteries and is also fully dimmable from 100% to 3%. With the four AA's in place the light has clocked up to a 2-3 hour run time. The light also includes a swivel universal shoe mount for bounce lighting. At the current time this unit is the most powerful LED light in its size class."

So, is it safe to assume, the 60aak would also output a 60w HALOGEN bulb's output?

(Also, btw, more reviews than I'm comfortable with complained about a high pitched whining sound with the 60x - so I've eliminated this one from consideration. But no such complaints on the 60aak).
 
NO, it is NOT safe to assume that the 60aak outputs like a 60 W halogen bulb.
A 60 W halogen bulb is roughly 1200 lumen photometrics at 3 ft. distance.
A 100 W incandescent clear (not frosted) tungsten filament is roughly 1700 lumens.
That light is 384 lumens
That is not the most powerful current led in it's size class. I have one mounted on my camera that is 3 X 2.75 X 2inches ( 16.5 cubic inches) and outputs 1500 lux at 3 ft. The LED 60X is 34 cubic inches ( over twice the size)
I have yet to see a 4-AA powered led light that is REALLY more than a 30W halogen.
That light is natively a cool blue 7000K rated. Put the amber filter on and see what happens to the brightness.
What is the color CRI ( color rendering index on that) ? the never do say. That is a mystery within a puzzle in pandora's box.
 
Norman - the 60aak is rated at 5600k, while the 60x is rated at 7000k. So there are some differences between these two models.

But, there's another description of the LED 60 which clearly reads it outpus 60W Halogen equivalent. See here:
http://www.bescor.com/Export26.htm

LED 60:
"Probably our best designed LED light. We’ve incorporated a small sized light housing, with two high output LED bulbs that give the equivalent of a 60 watt halogen bulb. The light requires only 1.2 amps of power at 6 volts for over 3 hours of run time. Filter is interchangeable. A clear diffussion filter and yellow 4500 degree filter are included."

So basically there are two models - the LED 60 and the newer (but possibly worse) LED 60x. The "aak" designation signifies AA battery kit rather than the battery brick kit.

I've heard that certain flash filters slide into the LED 60, apparently making for a better tungsten color temp. Why wouldn't they supply a CTO filter for tungsten color temperature, rather than the 4500k filter it comes with? Weird.
 
Wether it's the 5600K or 7200K model, makes no difference. The only reason in my opinion that they don't supply the tungsten 3200K filter is that it will reduce too much lumens. I mean going from 7200K or 5600K to the 3200K target color will really require a deep amber filter that will reduce the output considerably, not to mention the addition of the diffuser to even out the beam to further the reduction. You must ask how important is the assignment/use of the light and shooting distance required, if it is just to do some close-up interviews, well then any led unit may do. For serious contract work as weddings, social events, small commercials etc. get a serious light with a native 3200K if possible and high CRI value Preferably over 85. That way there will be little color correction in post and the time saved will more than compensate for the added dollars You will never see a high CRI 3200K even beam high output quality light with dimmer for under a hundred bucks. Let me know if you find one. Another thing I must mention is that any light however low in output can have an equivalent 60watt if the beam angle is narrow enough. Look at led flashlights for instance, the narrow beam is useless for video work but it is extremely bright because all the lumens emitted from the led(s) in it are concentrated to a very narrow beam. Widen that beam up to video use like 50 degree horizontal and voila, you have a wide but much reduced brightness, Sure any light can boast a 60 watt equivalent but notice how spotty that beam is, just point that light without any filters or diffusers at a white wall in a dark room and see for yourself where they measure the 60 W equivalent. And that of course is a blue 60W at the center spot area. Just like a flashlight.
 
So Norman - to help me understand the relative performance, how do you think the LED 60 would compare to my current Tungsten setup:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/145143-REG/Bescor_VS65_VS_65_AC_DC_On.html

I mainly use a 35 watt Halogen light in this lamp, and have found it to be more than bright enough for most situations. It won't light an entire room, but the 35w halogen bulb gives me a good 10 foot throw. And even then, people have trouble with how bright it is (even though the lamp is frost diffused, and I use the barn doors as a makeshift "dimmer"). I don't understand how shooters are using lights that are much brighter than this. (I really like this light but it would be so great to not have to lug the Bescor batteries around).

I was also looking into getting a speedlight mini-softbox that should fit over the LED 60. Impact makes one for $10. That would kill some lumens, but would also kill the "flashlight" problem you describe, by effectively making the light source much larger. Good/bad idea?
 
You are absolutely right. The Amber takes half a stop. Add the diffuser onto that amber and take another 1/4 -1/3 stop on top of that. And that amber does not even get close to 3200K. That would require another amber on top of that one.
Unless you don't mind the hot spot effect, Nice if you're looking for a vignette on wide angle.
Metrolens: That vs-65 light is exactly the one I was using before I went to leds. It is an excellent lamp with a very good spread and excellent color rendition by using readily available halogen 35-50-75-100 watt bulbs.I doubt very much that the led 60 would be even on par with the brightness of the 35 bulb. The led has 2 main things going against it. 1- it has a native bluish cast that needs correction and 2- It will have a spotty beam that has to be diffused. Those 2 things would not be an issue if you do interviews outdoors ( no need to color correct ).It all depends on your intended use of the light. Try doing a wedding or house birthday party with the led 60 and you will easily see what I mean. I do not intend to knock down a product as it serves it's purpose as it was designed for. If you want a led light that is equivalent ( or as close as possible to a 35 watt bulb on the VS 65) to your halogen, the the recipe is a 800 lux at 3 ft. led with native 3200-3500K. Since 99.99999% of led units out there don't have the native 3200K leds, then a 1400 lux bluish led with amber 3200K CC filter will do. But the beam spread is almost always on the spotty side. The led 60 may work out for you if you up the gain of your camera to somewhere near +6 or +9 db. Fine but you will introduce the grain with it. The 35 watt bulb is bright if you look directly at it and so are the leds. It's like the sun out there. You know it is there but you don't have to stare at it. Not having to lug heavy batteries around is one of the main reason leds are great and I think you should get one that fits your purpose. The best, and only way really to find out is to try them out. Good idea about the Impact mini-softbox, but it will lower the overall output by a good margin. For me, my personal preference is a led with no less than 1500 lux. (75 watt equivalent)
 
Thanks again Norman (and Felipe).

So, Norman, you're saying that the light output of:
(LED 60 + Mini-Softbox Diffusion + Full CTO) < (My current 35w Halogen tungsten)

Is there a way to know how much weaker it'd be, based on the published numbers (which you understand far better than me)?

And, is there another LED light I should consider in the $100-$150 range? (If it gets much more expensive, I'll probably just continue using my tungsten.)

And BTW: Here's a link to that mini-softbox:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/680509-REG/Impact_10032080_Mini_Softbox.html
 
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Norman99 said:
You are absolutely right. The Amber takes half a stop. Add the diffuser onto that amber and take another 1/4 -1/3 stop on top of that. And that amber does not even get close to 3200K. That would require another amber on top of that one.
Click to expand...
This Dot Line led light, is surprising how soft it is without diffuser, color temp is 5600 not blue at all as the Bescor are, not enough for a wide angle, BUT you can stack this light with another and cover any angle,
Very happy I sold my halogen Bescor as well as the Led Bescor, Dot line is another story
 
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Metrolens. How much weaker it will be ?? I can speculate in a rough ballpark area with a little math. And I will give you a % of comparison. Anyone is welcomed to correct me if I am wrong.

35 watt halogen filament with the silvered reflector of around 40 degree spread and diffuser will output at a distance of 3 feet ( the standard distance for most photometrics) approximately 600 lux
The led version with the rated 384 lux ( hopefully rated also at 3ft.) and a CTO with a softbox will struggle to output more than 200 lux.( depends greatly on the opacity factor of the box). I still cannot figure out how they arrived at the 60watt equivalent with 384 lux.. beats me.
Now you can see that the halogen is indeed more brighter by a factor of 3. That factor can be reduced to 2 if a similar opacity softbox is used on the halogen. Nevertheless the halo would be visibly brighter without use of CTO's.
How much weaker: around 60% weaker. That's like dimming the halogen to slightly less than half of it's rated output to equal the led.
 
I'll give you a real life scenario, I haven't have the chance to use this light with my Canon HDSLR, but for sure in low light will outperform my Panasonic HMC40.
I have use this light with the HMC40 which is a Fantastic camera but nothing special in low light (asa 80) .
The light without diffuser is very very even not hotspots or nothing to do do with The Bescor, covers a 16x9 corner to corner up to a wide angle like 40mm ( in 35mm )
As I said is stackable, so you can join two units if you are using a wider lens.
It is even, and color is 5600 K, Is bright enough to add a diffuser if required, and oftenly is required since most of the people at night at a distance less than 10 feet could complaint about the brightness, but if brightness is the point you can get a great lighting up to 20-30 feet.
And last but not least, the reason why I'm trying to show you guys the benefits of this fantastic light, is because I have use to my benefit more than one tip from this website.
 
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