Attaching pvd pipe tracks for dolly
- Thread starter smelni
- Start date
Jim Brennan
VHS Member Old Skool
I've used a pipe nipples, but I find that 3" lengths of wooden dowels are a little easier and just as effective. I use 1/2" PVC, so I found a dowel that was a little big (barely) and sanded it down. No bump, no fuss.
John Hudson gave me the idea. There's a few threads around on home made dolly and track.
John Hudson gave me the idea. There's a few threads around on home made dolly and track.
discs of tron
Well-known member
once i sent away for this $75 kit that used to be advertised in the back of the independent.
basically it was this:
take some 5" long sections of dowel just smaller than the inner diameter of the pvc. route little channels around the perimeter of the dowel near either end. split the dowel down the middle, the long way. put a hole through one half, and stick in a little threaded insert to take a small hex bolt.
the 2 pieces are sandwiched together, with little rubber "o" rings holding them there. (the o-rings fit inside the little channel at either end.) then there is a hex bolt in the middle, which, when turned, expands the dowel sandwich. (the end of the bolt hits a little metal plate on the other dowel-half so as you screw, it pushes up on its own half.) you just stick the thing in between the two pipe-ends, leaving the hex-nut head exposed, and turn that with an allen wrench until it expands and feels tightish. then, you just close the 1/2" gap by forcing the 2 sides together.
i hope that makes sense. at first i felt ripped off by the simplicity of this little kit. but it works really well and i don't own the tools to make it myself. (though if you did have access it would be very simple.) i could explain it to you better if you want to try this. i don't believe i'm violating any patents or anything because this is just too damn easy.
basically it was this:
take some 5" long sections of dowel just smaller than the inner diameter of the pvc. route little channels around the perimeter of the dowel near either end. split the dowel down the middle, the long way. put a hole through one half, and stick in a little threaded insert to take a small hex bolt.
the 2 pieces are sandwiched together, with little rubber "o" rings holding them there. (the o-rings fit inside the little channel at either end.) then there is a hex bolt in the middle, which, when turned, expands the dowel sandwich. (the end of the bolt hits a little metal plate on the other dowel-half so as you screw, it pushes up on its own half.) you just stick the thing in between the two pipe-ends, leaving the hex-nut head exposed, and turn that with an allen wrench until it expands and feels tightish. then, you just close the 1/2" gap by forcing the 2 sides together.
i hope that makes sense. at first i felt ripped off by the simplicity of this little kit. but it works really well and i don't own the tools to make it myself. (though if you did have access it would be very simple.) i could explain it to you better if you want to try this. i don't believe i'm violating any patents or anything because this is just too damn easy.
DEATHTOPRINT
Active member
They sell basically an "inverted" pvc coupling, that you put inbetween two 10" sections of pipe. It then makes the pipe "flush" with the other. Look hard at your lowes/home depot, I KNOW FOR SURE, they have them. can't think of the official name for em though.
Where a regular coupling would slide over two pieces of pipe. this fitting has 2 small ends, and a fat center. the two small ends go into each pipe, the "fatter" center is the diameter of whaver the pipe its going into is... and fits right up to the two pipes perfectly, leaving NO BUMPS in your rail at all. and they cost under a dollar.
Where a regular coupling would slide over two pieces of pipe. this fitting has 2 small ends, and a fat center. the two small ends go into each pipe, the "fatter" center is the diameter of whaver the pipe its going into is... and fits right up to the two pipes perfectly, leaving NO BUMPS in your rail at all. and they cost under a dollar.
DEATHTOPRINT
Active member
also, i've heard using irrigation pipe works, the black plastic stuff, that bends.
DEATHTOPRINT
Active member
you could probably also just dry fit these, and never have to glue.
Ernest_Acosta
Well-known member
Deathtoprint, that is what I use. I use recessed screws to attach the smaller pvc which is put inside to connect the two pipes. Then get black sprinkler pipe. Use a bandsaw and some sort of guide to keep the black pipe straight as you feed it through the bandsaw. Once cut, the black sprinkler pipe will cover any bumps in your connecting pvc. Keep in mind that the black pipe will cover the entire length of your tracks. So obviously if you have 30 feet of track, you will need at least 60 feet. It is easy to roll up when you are done and can fit in the truck of a car. I've only used skateboard wheels (not inline skate wheels) with this set up. To give credit where its due, this was posted on the home built stablizer site.
DEATHTOPRINT
Active member
heh. i was just taking a guess on the irrigation track. i havent visited that site in a while. I should check it out I think they updated it.
Shawn Murphy
Well-known member
Well, I went a little crazy and tapped the ends of my PVC instead of forcing the threaded nipples to cut a thread (though that will work, I didn't want to have to contend with an end stripping out on location, though if you always have a hacksaw with you you'll be ok). Why I didn't go with the dowel or slotted PVC insert route, I'm not sure...
And to further ensure longevity (and to make this overly complex!), the nipples themselves are threaded on the inside so the nipples can stay in permanently and I use a piece of threaded rod to connect them and the threaded rod stays in one end of PVC with loc-tite. Way more work than is necessary, I just did it for the fun of over-engineering something!
I think I'll also try those inverted PVC couplings that 'deathtoprint' mentioned, I saw them but was worried that I'd be adding an extra seam to each connection point, but a little sand paper can keep the joints pretty clean should any nick or bump show up.
*the first picture shows the tap, the nipple insert that is threaded on the id, and also the normal threaded nipple that doesn't have the internal thread as I was thinking of doing it that way first, but I was worried because the one without the internal thread has a finer (less grip) thread on the outside and thought it might strip out easier.
And to further ensure longevity (and to make this overly complex!), the nipples themselves are threaded on the inside so the nipples can stay in permanently and I use a piece of threaded rod to connect them and the threaded rod stays in one end of PVC with loc-tite. Way more work than is necessary, I just did it for the fun of over-engineering something!
I think I'll also try those inverted PVC couplings that 'deathtoprint' mentioned, I saw them but was worried that I'd be adding an extra seam to each connection point, but a little sand paper can keep the joints pretty clean should any nick or bump show up.
*the first picture shows the tap, the nipple insert that is threaded on the id, and also the normal threaded nipple that doesn't have the internal thread as I was thinking of doing it that way first, but I was worried because the one without the internal thread has a finer (less grip) thread on the outside and thought it might strip out easier.
Jay Rodriguez
Coffee Member
Shawn, that's awesome! Where did u get them inserts from?
Shawn Murphy
Well-known member
Actually, I got them from my local hardware store, but there's another thread where they're listed:
http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/m...oduct_Code=Threaded_Inserts&Category_Code=HRD
http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/m...oduct_Code=Threaded_Inserts&Category_Code=HRD
Nice job on the rails! Since you seem to have a tap and die set, you can also do this with aluminum tube or bars (though that would be much more pricey than the PVC!)
Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com
Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com
Shawn Murphy
Well-known member
If you were going to step up to a metal based railing, which would you use? (what is used by the professional rigs?)
Aluminum. There are several different designs commercially. But you could do EXACTLY what you are doing with the PVC, but J.B. Weld the threaded inserts into the aluminum tube. Also, try to get aluminum tube with a machined cut on each end. If you cut it yourself, you'll have to monkey around with a metal file on the edges to get the fit just perfect. Otherwise you'll get a "bump" on each joined section.
Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com
Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com
i bought a bunch of the ones from willy's widgets
goto
http://www.willyswidgets.com/pr_wheels.html
and scroll to the end.
i've used them a bunch and they work great.
matthew
goto
http://www.willyswidgets.com/pr_wheels.html
and scroll to the end.
i've used them a bunch and they work great.
matthew
gritsngumbo
Active member
Shawn: Nice solution. Very professional. Wish I had seen your post sooner.
for coupling the track theres some nice cheap couples here as well. i found off another skate dolly site. ..bottom of page
http://www.cartala.com/dollytrack.html
here is link for hardware
http://www.budget-fence.com/htm/hollaender/h150.htm
scroll down to item # 70e and 70es
ive also found that with stuff from home depot or wherever..if your using 1" pvc you can use a 1" piece of steel pipe to insert in it perfectly of a friction fit . because the pvc has a 1" inside diameter and the pipe has a 1" outside diameter. if you wanted to just cut the pipe lethways and thread a bolt through one side to push the gap open you could easily build your own couplings lik eth link above.. but its likely easier just to buy them from above .. they are cheaper that willys widget couplings and have 2 bolts . which put the tension more inside the tube/pipe instead of right at the edge.
http://www.cartala.com/dollytrack.html
here is link for hardware
http://www.budget-fence.com/htm/hollaender/h150.htm
scroll down to item # 70e and 70es
ive also found that with stuff from home depot or wherever..if your using 1" pvc you can use a 1" piece of steel pipe to insert in it perfectly of a friction fit . because the pvc has a 1" inside diameter and the pipe has a 1" outside diameter. if you wanted to just cut the pipe lethways and thread a bolt through one side to push the gap open you could easily build your own couplings lik eth link above.. but its likely easier just to buy them from above .. they are cheaper that willys widget couplings and have 2 bolts . which put the tension more inside the tube/pipe instead of right at the edge.