Artemis Trinity

[steditrak]

Here's what I recommended and predicted:


Mount and balance the camera inside the Gimbal.


Mount the Gimbal on top of the Steadicam. Not on the arm post, but on the stage. Exactly where the camera was always meant to be.


Mount the monitor to the Steadicam arm, and remove it from the sled. Won't need it there anymore. Put a battery in its place.


Balance the sled/Gimbal combination nice and neat just like any other, and make sure it passes the spin test. After the sled is in dynamic balance, get rid of the 2-3 second drop time. There won't be any need for it because the sled won't have to stay upright. That's what the Gimbal is for. Also by balancing the sled to neutral gravity, you won't have to fight with it in low mode. The sled will stay wherever you put it.


Now let's take it for a ride.


With the Gimbal/Steadicam combo, You won't have to watch the sled's horizon anymore. The Gimbal will take care of this for you. Re-locating the monitor on the Steadicam arm puts it directly where you need to look. This is particularly useful with Don Juan shots. No more craning your neck to get a better look while hoping you don't trip on something. Just a forward looking view with the ground in your line of sight at all times. This also works for high to low mode shots as your rig just became a jib, and you won't have to worry about the monitor "hitting" the arm like it used to.


Here's what I couldn't predict.


Pendulum weights for permanent drop down on any direction.


Joystick on-board the Steadicam gimbal to remote control camera tilt.


Panning the sled also pans the camera. The Gimbal keeps the camera level on the pitch and roll axis, regardless of the sled position. Let's you "see around corners".


May I present: The Artemis Trinity:


http://www.artemis-hd.de/index.php?id=147


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rWnB90vvF8


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3d2PWdG1Xo


https://vimeo.com/139576582


https://www.facebook.com/272366359629566/videos/407411029458431/


This is better than anything I could have hoped for.

 

[egproductions]

Yes, this is definitly a really nice example of meshing steadicam with an electronic gimbal. I too have been waiting to see something like this.

The response profiles is the secret ingredient here which allows you to let the gimbal work for you entirely or disable an axis, giving more creative (manual) control when flying the steadicam.

Very cool!

Any word on price?

 

[steditrak]

I have no idea what it costs. Whatever it is, I can't afford it.


I do, however, know how to improve on the design.


Let's say you're walking forward with the sled in a vertical upright position while the camera points left. The director wants a shot of her face, down her dress, and end at her shoes as she walks down the hallway. This means you have to rotate the sled forward from vertical to a 45 degree downward slope with the camera inches off the ground.


Technically you couldn't do this with the current configuration.


Why you ask?


Because the Battery hanger will bump into your shin bone as the sled rotates forward.


You might be able to avoid this by keeping the batteries relatively close together and position the sled further away from your body as it rotates past your legs. But this will create two problems.


1 - Additional strain on your lower back from holding the sled further away.


2 - Twitchy pan movements caused by a lack of inertia.


You can increase the pan inertia by spreading the batteries further apart. The further apart they are, the slower it will rotate and the more stable it'll feel:


http://www.tiffen.com/images/content/U2_InertialControl.pdf


But this will make the sled more prone to hitting your shin. This may prove impossible to avoid.


The solution you ask?


Modify the Battery hanger. Get rid of the rails, and stack the batteries as close to the post as possible. Yes I know, this will remove inertia and make the pan axis twitchier than ever.


Instead of using pan inertia by spreading the batteries apart only to trip on them later, ad torque resistance to the Steadicam pan bearing.


I recommend a variable resistance that will give the pan axis roughly the same feel as a fluid head tripod.


I've been right so far.


Trust me on this.

 

[Der_Stig]

I have no idea what it costs. Whatever it is, I can't afford it.


I do, however, know how to improve on the design.

Considering your past foray into this subject this ought to be good.

Let's say you're walking forward with the sled in a vertical upright position while the camera points left. The director wants a shot of her face, down her dress, and end at her shoes as she walks down the hallway. This means you have to rotate the sled forward from vertical to a 45 degree downward slope with the camera inches off the ground.


Technically you couldn't do this with the current configuration.


Why you ask?


Because the Battery hanger will bump into your shin bone as the sled rotates forward.


You might be able to avoid this by keeping the batteries relatively close together and position the sled further away from your body as it rotates past your legs. But this will create two problems.


1 - Additional strain on your lower back from holding the sled further away.


2 - Twitchy pan movements caused by a lack of inertia.


You can increase the pan inertia by spreading the batteries further apart. The further apart they are, the slower it will rotate and the more stable it'll feel:


http://www.tiffen.com/images/content/U2_InertialControl.pdf


But this will make the sled more prone to hitting your shin. This may prove impossible to avoid.


The solution you ask?


Modify the Battery hanger. Get rid of the rails, and stack the batteries as close to the post as possible. Yes I know, this will remove inertia and make the pan axis twitchier than ever.

oh boy, complete and totally misunderstanding of why the rig works, why components are where they are and how to operate. You don't operate with the sled infront of you, you operate it with the sled to your side. doing it that way you won't hit your shin, you won't have to relocate your batteries adversely upsetting the static and dynamic balance of the sled.

Instead of using pan inertia by spreading the batteries apart only to trip on them later, ad torque resistance to the Steadicam pan bearing.


I recommend a variable resistance that will give the pan axis roughly the same feel as a fluid head tripod.

that's the last thing that you would want to do. The gimbal is another axis of isolation and by adding drag you are decreasing isolation

I've been right so far.

No, no you havn't

Trust me on this.

Please folks don't trust him on this one. Seek out a knowledgeable steadicam operator one with years of experience. This guy is akin to having your next door neighbor the auto mechanic performing open heart surgery on you because he watched some episodes of ER and saw a show on the discovery channel