Aputure Amaran TRI-8 Hands On Review

Agreed again, we've tested some of the 6xx series that one of our students bought and that was the single worst impression that we got from them... "This stand adapter is stupid, how would we work around it?" I'm sure it is to avoid a licensing fee to some other company to do it the correct way.

We really NEED to make the jump to LED, still using Omni's and Tota's. Waiting for them to cool at the end of class eats up a lot of valuable time.
 
The other thing I don't particularly care for is the upper power adapter mounting method. I would rather see an integrated V-mount style option, with a V-mount added to the back side of the power adapter for convenient switching between battery and AC . But that's just me.


At this point I am carefully weighing my LED options over the next couple of months till I can test a few of the late to the game units like the COB 300D.

While I'm looking at everything available, I am really interested in something which can replace an 800w - 1200w HMI. My 1.2K Joker died at the end of last year and I have yet to replace it.

In my head I think I would like to test a pair of the 300D's shooting into a 6x6 as an inexpensive alternative to getting another 1.2K HMI. I don't think that will happen, as I really doubt they will provide the needed output.

Dave
 
David W. Jones said:
The other thing I don't particularly care for is the upper power adapter mounting method. I would rather see an integrated V-mount style option, with a V-mount added to the back side of the power adapter for convenient switching between battery and AC . But that's just me.


At this point I am carefully weighing my LED options over the next couple of months till I can test a few of the late to the game units like the COB 300D.

While I'm looking at everything available, I am really interested in something which can replace an 800w - 1200w HMI. My 1.2K Joker died at the end of last year and I have yet to replace it.

In my head I think I would like to test a pair of the 300D's shooting into a 6x6 as an inexpensive alternative to getting another 1.2K HMI. I don't think that will happen, as I really doubt they will provide the needed output.

Dave
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I use a double header on one light stand and attach a couple ASTRAS for more output when punching through a frame. Works.

The Fotodiox Factor has this setup. The power brick has a V mount adapter on it and just slides in when AC is needed. It's a cool feature. Probably could rig this idea up on the Aputure.
 
Run&Gun said:
That's one of the things that bugs me about most of the LED units out there: external power supplies that are "separate" from the main body.
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I had to show my gaffer today how my LS 1S work. We both kind of laughed at how poorly thought out the two boxes and three cables needed to light these up are. It all works, it's just messy and inconvenient.
 
Erik Naso said:
I use a double header on one light stand and attach a couple ASTRAS for more output when punching through a frame. Works.
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Erik - I know this works - but don't you end up having quite a bit of space between the two astra's on that double header? Not a problem if you have room to move frame far enough away to make the two become 1 source... or is there a double or triple header you use that puts those two almost side by side?
 
^^
Nah. It works fine. I have a couple older Mathews Doubles and it works fine. If I need to add three lights then in comes another light stand.
The 4x4 or 6x6 becomes the source. This is very common on film sets. I do this for studio shoots when I cant get the lights as close as I would like. You do what you have to do to get the job done. That's how I roll. :thumbsup:
 
Erik Naso said:
^^
The 4x4 or 6x6 becomes the source. This is very common on film sets.
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Yeah - I get this - was just wondering if your source ends up with two distinct patterns of light - instead of one - until you move the 4x4, etc. far enough away from those Astra's - thus also cutting down on output.
 
markfpv said:
Yeah - I get this - was just wondering if your source ends up with two distinct patterns of light - instead of one - until you move the 4x4, etc. far enough away from those Astra's - thus also cutting down on output.
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Haven't had that as an issue. If I need to go bigger then I put up a 6x6 but I try hard to not do that because it takes up to much room.
 
Crunching your numbers Eric:

The larger 1536 Led Aputure Light Storm LS1s puts out 4122.58 LUX or 383 Foot Candles at seven feet and costs $695.00
TRI-8 at seven feet puts out 1668.41 LUX or 155 Foot Candles and costs $488.00

Much less than half the power/FC output of the LS 1S, no barn doors, lame mounting system at almost 2/3 the price. Value equation doesn't work for me. These lights should be $300.00 to $350.00 from a buyer perspective. Not a bad light at all, just not a good value in comparison to their big brother.
 
I built a ultra-lightweight double header for my Aladdin 1x2' Flex Panels from off the shelf parts. Hardest part was finding the right length bracket so the two panels would meet up to form a single source. Mounting the Aladdin's stand adapters horizontally allows a little wiggle room that facilitates pointing the Flex panels so they converge, divurge, or sit on the same plane, all while remaining in contact with each other, & the entire rig can be supported on a single MERF stand, or hung from a lightweight boom.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/851203-REG/impact_lb_430l_lightbar_tilt_brackt_with.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1198723-REG/tether_tools_rs463_rock_solid_5_8_baby.html

My Double Header would never support the weight of two Astras, but imagine you could build something that would easily enough, or have a Grip manufacturer do it to your specs.
 
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Thanks Bern - exactly what I was talking about. I really would like one or two of those Aladdin's... problem is I really don't need them until I can book some bigger (or more specifically, travel) jobs and keep my 1x1 LED's for local stuff.
 
I think this light is so close! Unsure at the moment as far as purchasing.

Looks like CP just reviewed it too. At 10:09 in the video Caleb says the plastic mount cracked in two weeks. Also, Erik did you measure more output than their own photometrics?

In my opinion:

PROS
- smaller size.
- SONY batteries, I have so many of these lying around.
- bi-colour, good range 2300 - 6800.
- durability. Who knows about whether. I'm not expecting much, LEDs usually suck.

CONS
- the bag. The first thing i'd do is throw it away. Others wouldn't but I'd rather a cheaper light without a bag and soft box.
- stand mount. I haven't seen it in person and could probably live with some type of workaround but they should've added a small yoke. Most people would take the small size increase in exchange for easier field use (light locks remains in place once locked, rather than compensating by locking the light in a higher position, hoping it "falls" into position.
- no barn doors. On the light storms they do next to nothing to flag light but are very handy to attach diffusion/get more depth for bigger source etc.
- power supply - you have to choose!? Like Bern said, there should be dummy Vlock power supply holders - no more tools, no more velcro loops etc. in 2017. I'd probably lose the power supply and make the light weigh less and try to exclusively use the SONY batteries.

I'd like to see a creamsource micro review too.
 
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