Apparently Noobish: Tripod Micro-Jitters

T

tommygdawg

Well-known member
Hey, all

So, I've been shooting a long time, and I still haven't found a good solution to this. Granted, I've never made it a priority to get new sticks since I first started shooting, but even if I buy new sticks...will that really solve the problem? It seems like every time I touch the tripod head I get micro jitters, and every time I pan it's very difficult to get really solid smooth pans without the jitters. This tends to be more of an issue when I'm pulling focus myself and have to do a reach around (har har) on the camera. Is the only way around this to get multi-thousand dollar tripods and heads?

By the way, I have a set of Slik legs that are pretty okay and a Manfrotto 502HD head that I've kind of kitbashed on there. I typically shoot on the Black Magic Cinema Camera 2.5k and I have this problem whether or not I'm using a heavy rig with the camera (ie full rails, mattebox, ff, etc). I've had this setup for a long time and have been able to make do as I focused on upgrading other areas of my gear set. Perhaps it's time to finally upgrade the sticks?

Can anyone recommend a set of solid sticks? Maybe that's not even the issue, maybe I just haven't focused enough on the art of tripod movement, but I feel like the fact that I have kitbashed sticks doesn't help either. I don't know. I'm rambling now. Thoughts?

Thank you!
- Tommy
 
I have gone thru several tripod combos, ending up with Libec RT-30B/RS25.

I use it with a Panasonic AG AC-160A that weighs about 5 lbs before accessories.

One finger lets you pan/tilt - no static friction at the start of displacement or bounceback at the end of displacement.
 
Yes, you have to have good technique, but bottom line, if you want a good (tripod) head that will give you smooth, consistent, controllable moves, you're gonna have to spend some money on a good head. It's been discussed ad nauseum here and other places. People seem to want to skimp on tripods, I guess because they're not sexy like cameras or lenses.

You didn't give any information on your camera, what you're doing or say what your budget is, so it makes it a little tougher to give recommendations, but just for a point of reference I shoot with VariCams(25-35 lbs depending on configuration), C300 and F55 and use Vinten 100 heads with all of them and Sachtler Speedlock CF sticks. You're looking at over $7k per head/leg package.
 
Agree with Run&Gun, you have to spend some $$ and you have to be willing to lug around some weight. Light tripods and heads, no matter who they are made by, are a recipe for getting not very smooth movement, you can't refute the laws of physics. Weight = stability and smooth movement comes from weight plus inertia. I use an old Sachtler DV6SB head on Miller Solo DV carbon legs. It's a decent $3k medium weight setup good for camera rigs to about 12lbs but it still sucks in comparison to my old Sachtler Video 20 head with it's heavy three stage carbon legs I used to own with a 25lb Betacam. Pros who shoot for a living usually have no problem buying a $7k to $10k head and legs because they last a LONG time. I bought my set up eleven years ago and it is still going strong. So $3k divided by 11 = $272.00 per year, not a whole lot. Sure, $7k sounds expensive but if you amortize it over a decade, it's cheaper than flitting from cheap, crappy setup to cheap crappy setup over and over again. Strike the words Manfrotto/Bogen/Benro/Slik/Velbon from your vocabulary and look at Sachtler, Vinten, Miller, O'Connor and don't be afraid to buy used. As long as it wasn't abused, professional heads and tripods can last decades, although they hold their value well. Cheap tripods are the worst investment you can make in this business while quality camera support is one of the best because it just keeps going, the technology hasn't fundamentally changed in decades so a good setup will last you through your next dozen cameras.
 
A high quality tripod and head should last your entire career.

One way to look at it is if you were to expense out a $10,000 setup over 40 years, it comes out to $250 a year. Just an example for illustration.

FWIW, I have used many different brands over the years. And I would have to say my favorite has always been OConnor. There is just something about the smoothness of their heads that other brands can't quite match.
 
I've lobbied some manufacturers for a quality set of sticks designed specifically for small cameras like the A7x, & GH4. There are plenty of choices for heavier packages, but so far I haven't found a compact professional option designed for small cameras, & think there is a market.

Love something with a real fluid head that can be quickly removed from the legs like RRS's dovetail option, only scaled down so the tripod can travel in a carry-on without going overweight. Would be great it it was sold as a package with stiff legs.

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/FH-350-Fluid-Head-with-Dovetail-or-Ball-Base
 
I agree Bern, I'd get one. I have a Miller DS-20 and find the GH4 isn't heavy enough.

[OT] but has anyone seen the tripod reviews from a wildlife cameraman? He reviews about 14 heavy duty tripods. I can't find the link anywhere..
 
Tommy,

You're getting some good advice here, however it seems to me you shouldn't be getting "micro jitters" from what you have unless the "kitbashing" method of attaching the head to the sticks is somewhat "unstable". The 502 head should be workable for your camera unless the Blackmagic Cinema Camera weighs 8 - 15lbs or so. The weight of a rig may be adding to the problem.

I use an old Manfrotto 501 head on a set of Velbon carbon fiber legs (fairly solid ones) and when I get the pan and tilt drag properly adjusted I get smooth movements with a GH4 with moderately heavy lenses (like the Olympus 75mm f1.8 and the Lumix 45-200mm). I've seen some fairly solid Slik legs but possibly replacing yours with something more solid that will accept your 502 head without "cobbling" might solve your problem.

One way to test where your "wobbles" are coming from would be to weight down the legs a bit. If I have a longer lens on the camera sometimes I'll place my left hand on the part of the tripod where the legs are held and then bear down with body weight to stabilize. If you still get "jitters" your problem is in the head or the way it attaches to the legs.
 
One thing nobody has mentioned yet: Are you using any lens adaptors? And how are your lenses attached to your camera? I've seen a lot of problems on footage shot from people who think hanging something like a Canon 70-200 2.8 from the front camera without support is a good idea. Sure, it might be able to handle it of, but the moment they touch the focus ring it wobbles all over the place. The problem gets even worse when you add an adaptor because it is one more point where the lens can wobble, plus most cheap adapters have a fair bit of wiggle in them so the lens is never quite rock solid. This is the reason why PL lenses (which stands for Positive Lock; as in, a system that ensure the lenses are definitely locked in place) have been the gold standard in cinema lenses for several decades.
 
I suggest some really basic things to check. Is your Manfrotto head mounted firmly to your tripod? If your tripod has a centre post is it fastened down hard? Assuming you use a quick release plate and clamp of some sort are both attached firmly and is the clamp tightened down well? The same questions apply to every joint on your tripod. Once you've eliminated those the next question would be the strength of the tripod legs. Do you get the same problems with the legs collapsed as you get when extended? Combined with what has already been suggested about your head adjustments (pan and tilt) and you may be needing new sticks to start and if that doesn't solve the problem a heavier head too.
 
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