Anyone buy and use the Kamerar Brightcast yet?

Thanks for the information. I'd mainly be looking at the Brightcasts for inside elevators, taped on ceillings, shoved in weird places etc.

The tri-8s look pretty good as far as small, bi-colour panels, although I think Creamsource Micros have entered the conversation too.
 
I agree with what JP says. While we have not had the Tri8s yet to play with, I too would suspect they are more focused and powerful than the Brightcasts. Better as a key through a softbox for sure. The Brightcasts are not super high output, I would suspect about the output between an Arri 300 and 650 fresnel but they allow you to do things that are more of a PITA to setup with a regular panel. I am thinking of ditching my two Kino Diva 200s because the case I carry them, a huge Storm case, is a PITA to bring on small shoots, they are relatively large and heavy. I have been lighting 8x8 and 12x12 green screens using the two Brightcasts and two Divas. But the Diva also require a fairly heavy light stand or Gary Coleman to put them on, whereas four of the Brightcasts weigh less, are smaller and are much easier to mount using smaller light stands or even clamps or Mafers. So much easier to carry four of the Brightcasts in a small bag than the two Brightcasts and the two Divas and I shoot a lot of green screen these days.

I too have the D-Fuse Large softbox and while it is a cool tool, I agree with JP, it is too small and too hard light to use as a key source most of the time, although I find it handier as a fill source. I used my small Chimeras for travel for years and even that size is too small for many talent, especially those with angular features. I have since gone back to using my medium Chimera whenever possible as a key source, but I have to use my Aputure LS 1S at 100% to get enough light to fill the medium, the Brightcast would never have enough output for that. The Tri8s look cool, have not checked out the Micros. The Brightcasts are really handy to have in your kit although I would not want only them as my primary sources. They are for lighting green screens, shooting off of batteries for exteriors in the evening or at night, for lighting car interiors, etc. at least for me. My LS 1S still have about twice the output, but they are not bi-color and are much larger and heavier. Just need a few of those new Aputure Mini 20Cs and I will be set with all of my LED lighting.
 
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I used my small Chimeras for travel for years and even that size is too small for many talent, especially those with angular features. I have since gone back to using my medium Chimera whenever possible as a key source, but I have to use my Aputure LS 1S at 100% to get enough light to fill the medium, the Brightcast would never have enough output for that.


Which Chimera model do you use with the Aputure LS 1S? I was thinking about getting the D-Fuse softbox, but if the light is to hard I might as well get something that is more suitable.
 
Which Chimera model do you use with the Aputure LS 1S? I was thinking about getting the D-Fuse softbox, but if the light is to hard I might as well get something that is more suitable.

This one https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/257348-REG/Chimera_8434_Quartz_Plus_1_Bank.html with an old speed ring for a Mighty Mole 2k that I have. C-stand holds the speed ring and Chimera, LS 1S is on a separate light stand , nestled up close to the opening. It's very soft, Rembrandt window light looking. LS 1S doesn't enough horsepower to use this with a 40 degree egg crate. which I like to use but oh well. If you turn it to 100 in a darkened room though, it's a great key source.
 
I have been lighting 8x8 and 12x12 green screens using the two Brightcasts and two Divas. But the Diva also require a fairly heavy light stand or Gary Coleman to put them on, whereas four of the Brightcasts weigh less, are smaller and are much easier to mount using smaller light stands or even clamps or Mafers. So much easier to carry four of the Brightcasts in a small bag than the two Brightcasts and the two Divas and I shoot a lot of green screen these days.

I too have the D-Fuse Large softbox and while it is a cool tool, I agree with JP, it is too small and too hard light to use as a key source most of the time, although I find it handier as a fill source. I used my small Chimeras for travel for years and even that size is too small for many talent, especially those with angular features. I have since gone back to using my medium Chimera whenever possible as a key source, but I have to use my Aputure LS 1S at 100% to get enough light to fill the medium, the Brightcast would never have enough output for that. The Tri8s look cool, have not checked out the Micros. The Brightcasts are really handy to have in your kit though. although I would not want only them as my primary sources. They are for lighting green screens, shooting off of batteries for exteriors in the evening or at night, for lighting car interiors, etc. at least for me. My LS 1S still have about twice the output, but they are not bi-color and are much larger and heavier. Just need a few of those new Aputure Mini 20Cs and I will be set with all of my LED lighting.

Yeah I'd be adding them to the small van package I have, to go along with some other smaller panels, shoved in a milk crate etc. Also, similar to your travel shooting, I'd gladly use them on solo documentary missions for interviews. I wouldn't take any stands and where the light can be taped or clamped dictates where the interview gets set up!

When lighting a 12x12 green screen, how are you arranging your four lights? 2x on the ground then 2x higher on stands? I need to rethink what I can get away with - last time I ever use 2x 575w HMIs...

green screen studio.jpg
 
From the article: "...with larger form considered for the future" AKA we're working on the tech as fast as we possibly can.

Looks like they've borrowed a lot from the brightcasts, including the cable issue.

3 for $499 is a good deal.
 
I saw those Dracasts, I will definitely pick up a three pack when they are available. The look amazingly like the Brightcasts other than their control panel.
 
Yeah, well everything comes at a price I guess.
But that price is very right in my book.

Yes you're right. I'm definitely glass half empty with new LEDs but I like these a lot.

I think of LEDs not as tungsten or HMI replacements, rather they can all compliment each other and fill gaps (literally) that traditional units can't.
 
My Brightcast panel extension cables finally arrived from the UK! It took quite a while but at least I now have them. They are 2.5 metres long and allow you to detach the Brightcast panel from the control unit and place it anywhere you want to affix it, inside cars, boat cabins, underneath cabinets, etc. The rear of the LED panels attach to the control unit using hook & loop fastener, the hook is all over the rear of the panel so anywhere you want to affix it, just stick come Velcro loop fastener and you are in business. Pretty stoked, it took money and time but I now have 7' D-Tap extensions for each Brightcast, which allows me to locate a BP-U or V-Mount battery with a D-tap anywhere up to 7' from the control panel and I now have a cable to locate the panel up to 3 metres from the control unit. I also bought 20' three pin mini XLR extensions, allowing me to locate the panel and control unit up to 20' from the AC power supply when wall powering these lights. I am set for any situation now with my Brightcasts.

All of these cables were not cheap, the 20' AC power to control panels cables were $39.00 ea. plus shipping from Markertek, the Workhorse Gear 7' D-Tap extensions were $45.00 ea. (I now notice that Amazon is carrying tons of super cheap ones, wish they would have had those a few months ago!) and these panel extension cables were £47.00 from CVP http://cvp.com/index.php?t=product/brightcast_bcexbic_panel_extension_cable so that's $140.00 per light for extra cabling but I feel to exploit the light for it's unique design, all of these cables are needed. Hopefully Brightcast will eventually just include all of these cables with the light, even if they have to raise the price. Or perhaps Dracast will do it with their much cheaper knockoffs they are coming out with?

03.jpg01.jpg02.jpg
 
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