Anyone buy and use the Kamerar Brightcast yet?
- Thread starter puredrifting
- Start date
Eric Coughlin
Veteran
Make them an offer they can't refuse.
doubledark
Well-known member
puredrifting
Major Contributor
puredrifting
Major Contributor
Used my two Brightcast to light up an 8x8 green screen yesterday. I normally light green screens with my two Kino Diva 200s that I still have laying around but after comparing the output from the Brightcast, I think I just found a suitable replacement for my Diva 200s, the Bright cast put out a LOT more light than the Kinos. To be fair, I had gridcloth over the Kinos to spread out the light and I used the Brightcast bare but the Brightcast were so much easier to rig, lighter, simpler. I continue to be impressed with the Brightcast, the crew had not seen or worked with flexible LED panels before and were suitably impressed.
puredrifting
Major Contributor
For those on a budget, CVP in the UK is selling a day light only version of the Brightcast for $249, if you do the conversion rate to pounds
ReelFilmGeek
Well-known member
man so many of these flexible led pannels are popping up its hard to keep track of them all. Part of me wants to jump on them the other part says meh wait until I absolutely need some. Wish they would make them in larger sizes like westcott does with their flexlites.
puredrifting
Major Contributor
That's a smart strategy with all video gear. Never buy gear hoping for clients to pay for it. Book paying jobs with clients that will pay for the gear, then buy it. There are new LED's being introduced at a furious pace, almost weekly so holding off as long as possible is the smart strategy. The two Brightcast I bought were already paid for with one documentary I am booked for. Daylight Brightcasts for £199.00 is a deal. If the U.S. distributors ever get them, they seem behind the times, they are getting all of the cooler verisons in the UK. I am glad I got the Bicolor, it would be smart to check out the Photometrics between the bi-color and the daylight. These lights use SMDs, not bulbs so the same bulb on my bi-color is making both color temps so not sure the daylight will have more output or if they are just cheaper to make and purchase? I already have a bunch of other daylight only LEDs, these two Brightcast are my first bi-color panels. I am digging them, they are pretty nice lights and work well so far. We'll see how they hold up in the crucible of an on the road documentary in South America. I ordered two of the Ikan BP-U90 batteries with the D-Tap to power these, one of the Ikans was defective out of the box so B&H is shipping me another, it's supposed to arrive right before I leave for the shoot. Fingers crossed.
ReelFilmGeek
Well-known member
Yes please keep us up to date as I would love to know. The price still isn't to bad as one gig would pay for them and would make great for travel shoot. I'm almost tempted to use these instead of my pixapro LEDs for one man band shoots I do from time to time as it would cut down on carrying another case, but thats not enough to justify the cost yet. Who knows though might be doing a narrative personal project later this year and I'll probably bite the bullet rather then rent the flex lights as the cost would be similar and then I would own lights I could tape to the ceiling haha.
puredrifting
Major Contributor
Keep in mind that the cable they come with from the control unit to the panel is really short. So as they come, you will not able to tape them to the ceiling because with the control unit, they are too heavy and the panel to control cable is only about a foot or two. Seems logical that we would want to separate the panel from the control unit via an extension cable, right? But it's an unusual configuration, TA4F to TA4M. First I asked Kamerar for the pin outs to I could get a custom cable shop to wire up a couple of them for me. Kamerar refused to give me the pin outs and said if I used anything but a factory cable, it would void the warranty. I asked Kamerar and Brightcast when we are getting the control unit to panel extension cables to buy here and they both hemmed and hawed and bascially, it isn't happening. It may someday. Meanwhile, CVP in the UK has 2.5M control to panel cables but they are very pricey. But I am stubborn and want them so I paid about £120.00 for two with shipping. Still have not heard from CVP when they are shipping the cables to me and I ordered then over a week ago. I'll just keep waiting. But I did pick up two D-Tap to D-Tap 7' extensions on Amazon for $45.00 ea. Those will allow you to put your Brightcast on a small, flimsy travel stand and keep the battery on the floor, well worth the cost of admission to me.
So besides the lights themselves, I am into each for about an extra $120.00 for the accessory cables they should have came with from the factory but that's the breaks. They don't seem to understand these two issues, that floating a Brightcast and a V-Mount big battery on a Manfrotto 5001B flimsy stand is unsafe. We want to place the heavy battery on the floor or even attach it to the legs. They also don't seem to understand that anyone who sees these lights thinks to themselves, "Wow, that's awesome, I want to velcro that panel underneath a cabinet or on the headlier of a car. In order to do that, we need the control unit to panel extension cable. Hopefully CVP can get a hold of it for me. Great lights but they need to think of what their customers want and need to put the lights to work in an efficient and flexible way.
Last edited:
rob norton
Veteran
They should be bending over backwards to sort that cable issue. If not Kamerar then it'll be any other company who will deliver the goods soon enough.
puredrifting
Major Contributor
In speaking with them, I get the impression that they are a young company and have not quite figured out their strategy yet. In the UK, they are selling daylight only versions, have many more accessories and cables available etc. Obviously if there is enough demand, the U.S. distributor will pick up these items from the Chinese or Korean parent company to sell here. But as of today, if you want the daylight lights or the control panel extensions, you have to order them from the UK.
Puredrifting (and others),
Any more thoughts on these now that you've had them for a bit?
How well do they mix in with the Aputure LS-1s color wise?
I'm leaning towards picking up one or two, but I have AB gold mount batteries. Not sure if I should go with a V mount to AB adapter or go with the UB's. Not that I want to add another battery type to my inventory... ;-0
Any more thoughts on these now that you've had them for a bit?
How well do they mix in with the Aputure LS-1s color wise?
I'm leaning towards picking up one or two, but I have AB gold mount batteries. Not sure if I should go with a V mount to AB adapter or go with the UB's. Not that I want to add another battery type to my inventory... ;-0
puredrifting
Major Contributor
I am in Brazil at the moment, shooting a documentary. We shot our main talent last night on the street, using both of the Brightcast, one bare on a sign on the BG and one on talent as a key through a 42" diffusion disc. THe lights performed well.
We shot an interview today at a museum, talent seated in front of some windows that looked out over Rio and specifically highlighted Sugarloaf. I used a 400 watt HMI through the same 42" diffusion disc as key and a 200 watt pocket PAR through a 4x4 diffusion frame. The key did not have enough horsepower to get me the F stop I needed to hold the shot on Sugarloaf in the BG so I had my gaffer rig up both of the Brightcast, bare, next to the diffusion disc to give me more light. The Brightcast at 5200k seemed to blend just fine with the HMI. I was lucky I had them with us, even though we also had the HMIs.
So far, the Brightcast are very handy. I have not had a chance to try then with my Aputure LS 1S.
As far as the battery plates, here is what I will tell you, order whatever plate you want, it doesn't matter as the plate is passive, there is no electronic connnection with the control unit, they just are battery holders. You actually power the light using a small, coiled D-Tap to three pin mini XLR cable that comes with the light. You order the seven foot D-Tap to D-Tap extension cable from Amazon for $45.00 https://www.amazon.com/D-Tap-Extens...=8-41&keywords=D-Tap+to+D-Tap+extension+cable and put your battery on the ground or in a backpack when using the light handheld. I am not a fan of putting the battery on the back of the light as you are then making a very lightweight, 39oz light very top heavy and prone to tipping over if bumped when using lightweight travel or kit stands. The D-Tap extension cable mitigates that factor. So in a way, the battery plate you order doesn't matter.
Last edited:
Bern Caughey
Veteran
B&H is selling the BrightCast for $300, but the offer expires today.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...dp66_v15_345_kamerar_brightcast_flexible.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...dp66_v15_345_kamerar_brightcast_flexible.html
Last edited:
JPNola
Veteran
I purchased a second one because of that sale price! Very happy with the Brightcast. I prefer it over my Litepanel bi-color. You can't beat the portability of the Brightcast or the price. With the D-Fuse it makes for a simple, super-lightweight, compact source that is soft-ish. The tandem cost me $350 as opposed to $2400 for an original Litepanel 1x1 bi-color with Snapbag. Not directly comparable, but for that price savings, hell yes.
Most of the super-inexpensive LED lights have disappointed me in their color rendition. Not the Brightcast. I think it has a better color output than the early model Litepanels and I find it has a more gentle quality to the output than does the Astra. The output reminds me of the output of the Aladdin / Lightmat LED lights.
I highly recommend purchasing one. The entire unit is so slim the you could stuff 2 if not 3 of them in the Porta Brace case made for the Astra. The Astra is better if you need punch, certainly. But the Astra feels clunky, awkward handling, and heavy after using a Brightcast.
rob norton
Veteran
Do you still need to buy a longer cable from elsewhere?
I think I'll pick one up...
EDIT - sorry just read through puredrifting's cable info from MTF services. I'll definitely grab one of these down the line when it makes sense.
It's a good sale though, thanks for the link Bern.
Last edited:
puredrifting
Major Contributor
I've had that panel extension cable on order now for over a month and so far, no luck. I told CVP to keep my order open and to let me know when they can get it. But the D-Tap extension cables are available on Amazon and work well to get the battery off of the back of the panel and onto the floor or stand.
rob norton
Veteran
Good to know. Now that you own two brightcasts, do you see any need for smaller panels like the aputure tri8s, or would you just use the brightcasts on a stand?
I am all talk, I didn't go ahead with the deal. I need to stop spending $$$ on equipment.
I am all talk, I didn't go ahead with the deal. I need to stop spending $$$ on equipment.
JPNola
Veteran
That was likely directed at PureD, but I'll chime in.
From what I know of the Tri-8 it is a much more punchy source, more like an Astra. If I am not mistaken, on the Tri-8 each led has a lens that gives it more punch but with the Brightcast there isn't a lens over each led, just a plastic coating that is "bubbled" over each led. In that regard it is more like a LiteMat, the result a more gentle, softer output that sacrifices intensity.
Lensed LED's-
Brightcast-
Yesterday on a shoot I employed the Brightcast on a stand, with the D-Fuse diffuser / soft box, as a key light for a news reporter standup. A simple "down & dirty" setup. For a carefully lit interview, I would use another source altogether when possible- something that makes for a much, much larger source.
I was not able to find the specs online, but I'd guess that the Brightest is 1/2 if not 1/3rd the weight of the Tri-8. And it seems more rugged, like it would not break if dropped or if the light stand is knocked over. It seems less likely to cause damage to any surface if knocked over or cause damage to any person. All 4 edges of the unit are rubbery and bendy. These benefits are a trade-off for the lower output.