Anyone built a car mount mount yet

Process trailers and Shotmakers have a human element involved, operators maintain framing in one way or another. Many process trailers have standard width dolly systems installed on the deck to simulate "pacing" as well.

Most often, the rigs that are clamped or suctioned directly to cars are for static shots involving ground effects, dialogue and so forth - not a lot of need for motion within the frame.

e
 
>Excuse me if I'm wrong, but ultimately, don't you need remote control for the camera, or is >this just fixed position shooting? Turn it on, away you go, and HOPE....???

That's usually the way it goes. For even more fun, try doing it on film without a video tap. Waiting a couple of days (or weeks), then entering the telecine suite as the images unfold...

-j
 
Use as much film as needed

Use as much film as needed

Focus This! said:
Excuse me if I'm wrong, but ultimately, don't you need remote control for the camera, or is this just fixed position shooting? Turn it on, away you go, and HOPE....???
Click to expand...

Unless your on some crazy shoestring budget, those extra 2 minutes of "nothing" footage probably wouldn't matter. I guess you could use a remote if you're a conservationist. I SAY THERE'S A $3,500 CAMERA STUCK ON THE HOOD OF A CAR WOTH LESS AND IT"S GOING 60mph, I'LL SPEND THE 6 BUX FOR AN EXTRA TAPE AND GET THE SHOT A.S.A.P.!!!
 
limehouse said:
Yep, I made one. It works pretty well, although I've had problems with the pivot point just below where the camera mounts. It occassionally swings foward or backward when the car stops or accelerates a little too fast, and furthermore it's not always predictible what "too fast" means. Dan S. obviously built in a safeguard that keeps the camera from smashing into the hood, but I still hate the idea of my DVX being jarred by any bumps.

Maybe the problem is with my contruction, though. I followed the directions, but I'm not a master of DIY construction, so I can't say for sure. Dan's designs seem damn solid, so I err on the side of my own fault.
Click to expand...

You need to take a wrench and really tighten the ball joint down. I'm not sure what you mean by pivot point though and the camera swinging forward or back. If you tighten the ball joints it should be one solid piece between the upper and lower trays, so "smashing into the hood" shouldn't even be on the radar! If you are just shooting from the hood of the car, you can loose the upper tray altogether, and mount a fluid head directly to the base tray. As for hitting bumps in the road, I'm afraid all mounts suffer from that one.

As always, if you are having any problems with any of the rigs you can e-mail me directly for help getting the rigs to work the way they are suppose to!

All my best,

Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com
 
So I sent a note to the GT Mount guys(www.gtmount.com). I think their design is not bad, a little weak in some areas, and could use some modifications like a bigger and beefier camera mount, and a couple of 5/8” studs sticking out the side for additional grip reinforcement.

Here is their reply:

“The original design of our mount was targeted towards car/racing
enthusiasts. However, the bulk of our sales are from independent film
makers. You are right, that a more professional setup would include
everything you have listed below, and that would make it a very competitive
product. Unfortunately, all our resources are tied up with our other
division www.mobiado.com and we are unable to give the development time to
our GTmount product. We are always open to selling off this division to
someone who is capable to take it in the right direction. If this is
something you are interested in, please contact me.”


Ouch!


-J
 
Here are some quick pics of a carmount I assembled.



carmount1.jpg


carmount2.jpg





the secret to eliminating vibration is triangulation. This mount also works quite well vertically.
 
Now that's a good disign.

Now that's a good disign.

Where could one get those parts you used to build that beast! That's a good looking, solid design.

PS: a parts lists would be killer!
 
I used www.filmtools.com for the spuds, mini-grip heads, and Bogen Manfrotto 3028 Super 3-D Head. Got the vacuum cups from www.mytoolstore.com. And the rods from a local metal shop. But you can get all this stuff from filmtools. In fact, they've got a lot of great car mount kits already assembled if you don't mind the price
 
We used the TL6AMB Woods cups. They take a 1/4"-20 to 5/8" baby spud.

That picture above is right on the money - triangulation and a high-pick on the camera handle keep the shot more steady. However, don't take this point with the grip head, use a padded Cardellini 2E to gently grab the handle.

Motion picture cameras usually take the pick on the top of the magazine.

Disclaimer! It should be stated that the excessive vibration under speed can have a permanent undesired effect on delicate cameras - we sent two Z1Us to their maker on Driver X.

Actually, it could have been the 135 degree cockpit temperatures that did those cameras in... we melted four Pelican cases at Martinsville.

e
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top