Batutta
Major Contributor
That "asian" guy also did this--
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOOCY5Bc_OA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s5EvhHy7eQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOOCY5Bc_OA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s5EvhHy7eQ
$40 Steadicam...you seen this?
- Thread starter Mickey Munday
- Start date
ESTEBEVERDE
Veteran
And WTF difference does it make that you're "half asian jackass"???? ;-)
Rentafilmer
Member
Hey everyone,
I'm a student in the mechanical engineering program at U of Min.
The goal of a steadicam is to be a static system. This meaning you want the torque of the system to be zero (no rotational motion about the center of mass) no matter how you accelerate the system. The best way to do this is to put the center of mass at the point where you will be exerting a force on the system. This point is the handle of the steadicam.
This is the most important part of making an effective steadicam.
I havent made a steadicam but I ended up reading through this post and thought my two cents may be helpfull.
If your having problems with your steadicam try holding it horizontal to the ground (with the camera attached) and balancing it in one hand. Where your hand is when it is balanced is the center of mass and where you should hold it when you are shooting.
Hope this was helpfull.
I'm a student in the mechanical engineering program at U of Min.
The goal of a steadicam is to be a static system. This meaning you want the torque of the system to be zero (no rotational motion about the center of mass) no matter how you accelerate the system. The best way to do this is to put the center of mass at the point where you will be exerting a force on the system. This point is the handle of the steadicam.
This is the most important part of making an effective steadicam.
I havent made a steadicam but I ended up reading through this post and thought my two cents may be helpfull.
If your having problems with your steadicam try holding it horizontal to the ground (with the camera attached) and balancing it in one hand. Where your hand is when it is balanced is the center of mass and where you should hold it when you are shooting.
Hope this was helpfull.
Last edited:
morgan_moore
Major Contributor
I dont think it is a total joke - this method can improve your footage
The design is a bit wrong though
The holding hand kept loose actually works as a kind of gimbal
The camera should be as close as possible to the camera not raised like this example because a small move will move the camera a long way round the pivot
WHile I like the bar out the side it should be weighted (both sides) to make unintended rotational movement more difficult
Also that bar should not be held onto - rotational movement should be controlled with the other hand at a position near the lens and 'gimbal'
Of course a real steadicam is in another world I however am not convinced about small steadicams on light cameras - very tricky
Of course a heavy weight will kill your arm and back - lighter weight - longer post is better - but a long post means you may kick it or hit something - guarenteed non smooth shot
The design is a bit wrong though
The holding hand kept loose actually works as a kind of gimbal
The camera should be as close as possible to the camera not raised like this example because a small move will move the camera a long way round the pivot
WHile I like the bar out the side it should be weighted (both sides) to make unintended rotational movement more difficult
Also that bar should not be held onto - rotational movement should be controlled with the other hand at a position near the lens and 'gimbal'
Of course a real steadicam is in another world I however am not convinced about small steadicams on light cameras - very tricky
Of course a heavy weight will kill your arm and back - lighter weight - longer post is better - but a long post means you may kick it or hit something - guarenteed non smooth shot
Brickhouse Media
Well-known member
I built one of these a few months ago initailly for my little Panasonic 320. It was pretty heavy with my DVX but I'm pretty big so no prob. I covered the pipe with foam pipe insulation. I like the way you can flip it and get the camera good and low. These things are inexpensive and do make a difference.
snowleopard
Well-known member
This is the principle behind the Streadytracker. While not an ideal unit, it's easy to get used to as it has no actual gimbal. It has a proprietary pad of sorts that you put your hand under, and it works pretty well. It's drawback, just like any other without a gimbal, is in rotation shots, and 360's are almost impossible. Start watching this clip at :15, and for five seconds you can see how well the unit really works, until at :22 you can see the "flaw" I'm talking about. ANY steadicam unit with no gimbal, even the Steadytracker and it's pseudo-gimbal pad, are prone to this. The Steadytracker is also prone to dutch shots (if you like them, cool!)
Compare that footage to this clip, done with a Glidecam that has a gimbal, and the pans look much more smooth. However, gimbals are trickier to get used to, especially when not part of a full (vest) unit (going from word here, not experience), and you must hold the entire camera & unit with your arm. My experience is also that the higher the prices, the better the gimbal. The Glidecam 4000 and Merlin have nice gimbals that aren't as prone to drifting, or overcorrecting as lower end units.
Shooting with a very wide angle lens, or slowing the footage down, both assist in smoother motion footage.
A bigger key than all of this is practice, practice, practice. Bill Butler and Mike Chapman shot all the boat shots on Jaws hand held. They got to that level of skill from practice.
Please keep this thread on topic and take into account that this website has an international user base and it's easy to unintentionally offend people.