$2500 for some kinoflos - WTB

rgdfilms

Wet poodle
My buddy just made some cash. He wants to spend 2500-3000 on some new or used kinos. I've been pushing him to get the 2foot 4bank diva light, just came out, get three of those and we should be set right? Can you guys think of a better setup? I know they sell a basic "interview" lighting kit package w/ (2) 2ft 2 banks and (1) 2ft 4 bank for something like 2500 - Anyone selling their used kinos or have some advice??

thanks
 
The non-dimmable Kino's are better, I think, because they are adjusted in precise f/stops. Each 4' tube is 1/2 stop. Each 2' tube is 1/4 stop. That's pretty darn useful when you need a little less fill, for example, you can yell out, "hey, big fella, turn off one of the 4 banks" and you know what you're getting. It really helps with communication on set.

The other thing to keep in mind is that the Kino Flo Diva's do not maintain the same quality of light when dimmed. They have a measurable magenta/orange tint when pushed to the extremes.

In any case (no pun intended...), the Lowel Case Light is probably a better value, but I've never used one.

Hope this helps.
 
it does help, thank you.. Which lowel case are you talking about ? I like kinos and so does my buddy because of how soft and pleasing the light looks, can you recommend a good outfit to begin with?
 
thisiswells said:
The non-dimmable Kino's are better, I think, because they are adjusted in precise f/stops. Each 4' tube is 1/2 stop. Each 2' tube is 1/4 stop. That

I've never heard those figures beofre, but wouldn't the fstop of light totally depend on the distance the fixture is from the object?
 
I like the 3 light interview kit myself.

but it depends on what you intend to do most.

if you intend ot do a lot of greenscreen work then you should 4' 4anks, you could get four of them for 3,000

If you intend to do a lot of interview work, doc stuff, or short films, then the 3 light interview kit will be more versitle, and it has a great case.
 
I would ask him to seriously look at the New Mole Richardson Biax units......They're cheaper and have more light output.
 
steadicamsteel said:
I would ask him to seriously look at the New Mole Richardson Biax units......They're cheaper and have more light output.

They aren't cheaper than the Kino 4' 4banks, but they might be cheaper than the Kino Divas.

To be fair, they use the same bulbs as the Diva (55w biax).
The Mole's put out more light because they can take more bulbs (8 vs. 4).
They also have 2 and 4 bulb models.

But if you go for the 8 bulb Biax, that also doubles your bulb cost ($200 vs. $100).
 
Gopher_Greene said:
I've never heard those figures beofre, but wouldn't the fstop of light totally depend on the distance the fixture is from the object?
He's referring to the amount of output, regardless of the distance. i.e., if you have four tubes on, and you turn one off, you just cut your light output by 1/4.

Of course, from there it changes a little -- if you had three tubes on and you cut one, it doesn't cut the light output by 1/4, instead it cuts it by 1/3...
 
That seems logical enough Barry, however that doesn't equate to fstops directly. When manipualting lighting to effect fstops I've always used half the distance gain an fstop, double the distance lose an fstop. So if my light is 10ft from the object and giving me a 5.6 and I move it out to 20ft my fstop should be 4
While theres a million other things that can come into play, that is the rule of thumb I've always heard.
 
Gopher_Greene said:
That seems logical enough Barry, however that doesn't equate to fstops directly. When manipualting lighting to effect fstops I've always used half the distance gain an fstop, double the distance lose an fstop. So if my light is 10ft from the object and giving me a 5.6 and I move it out to 20ft my fstop should be 4
While theres a million other things that can come into play, that is the rule of thumb I've always heard.
What you're saying is totally accurate as a rule of thumb. I'm just saying that that's not what thisiswells was referring to.
 
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