105w 5000k flourescents?

P

Policar

Carbonite Member
These seem like a great deal ( http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Daylight-105W...ryZ42225QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ) compared with fake HMIs and the ilk. No loud ballast (although they may hum), already semi-soft light, CRI of 85, I think, which is mediocre but acceptable, and they plug into normal $8 light cones.

Has anyone used anything like this? I need some (read: a lot of) CTB fill for a day interior, and these seem like a good option. Are they? Anyone tried them? I know they're not precise, but they seem small, compact, and cheap. And 400w equivalent is nothing to sneeze at (that's a 1k with CTB at 1/10th the wattage!)
 
Wow, very cool. That looks much closer to what I want, actually, since I needed a light output of about 800w for the scene and was planning on using two 105w bulbs.

Where do you get a mogul base, by the way? $62 is so much less than $1000+ for a 575w hmi (which is more light than I need anyway) that even if a mogul base is a bit expensive, I don't mind. I just don't know that much about electronics at all, just that after using kinoflos extensively, I've grown less afraid of flourescent fixtures.

Another option was diachroic par 64 bulbs, which allegedly run at 1000w, have output equal to 1000w tungsten, but are 5600k. They're also very hard to find and rumored to burn out after just a few hours. Sounds too good (or too strange) to be true.

Anyhow, I appreciate the help a lot.
 
Wow, this site seems to have pretty great deals on HID lamps, too. Could be great for low budget "HMI"ish lights.

Why would a flourescent need a mogul base if it has a built in ballast, though? Isn't that base designed for HID lamps and sodium lamps?
 
Policar said:
Wow, very cool. That looks much closer to what I want, actually, since I needed a light output of about 800w for the scene and was planning on using two 105w bulbs.

Where do you get a mogul base, by the way? $62 is so much less than $1000+ for a 575w hmi (which is more light than I need anyway) that even if a mogul base is a bit expensive, I don't mind. I just don't know that much about electronics at all, just that after using kinoflos extensively, I've grown less afraid of flourescent fixtures.

Another option was diachroic par 64 bulbs, which allegedly run at 1000w, have output equal to 1000w tungsten, but are 5600k. They're also very hard to find and rumored to burn out after just a few hours. Sounds too good (or too strange) to be true.

Anyhow, I appreciate the help a lot.
Click to expand...

CoolLights (my company) sells a fixture for this bulb to work in a standard softbox hood (as long as the speedring is 5.5" or larger).

http://www.coollights.biz/softbox-fixture-p-33.html

I was going to sell the bulb too but haven't found exactly the one I want yet. But when I do it will be available in 3200K and 5600K like my other choices.

Hope this helps.
 
Well, the main question to ask with this particular fixture when you want to know if it will work with a softbox hood is "what is the inner diameter of your speedring?" The CL-SFT1 was designed to work with a 5.5" inner diameter or larger. Why? Because those 200w 8U bulbs (which is primarily what this is made to go with) have a base diameter of about 5.3" so its already very close. 5.5" or larger was about the only way to accomodate that bulb and still have the speedring be a "speedring." What I mean by that was that another way to go was to make a softbox fixture that would have a smaller diameter and could fit in just about anything and then have to screw the bulb in after you attached the hood to the fixture. Then its not such a speedring--if you see my point. You can't just slide in, attach and go which is supposed to be the idea.
 
How to measure speedring

How to measure speedring

Here's a picture showing how to measure to be sure if your inner diameter will work or not. Its just measuring from the end of the thumbscrews. I took a quick look to try to find your softbox on the web to see what its specs were but I can't be sure--there seem to be so many options on Chimera softboxes--so the only safe way to be sure is for you to measure the speedring. Just remember 5.5" or larger and your in... Click on the picture below to make it bigger.

I just noticed something else. If the softbox you have is the one that is only 12" deep then another issue is that these 200w bulbs can stick out from 11 to 12" (I have a 250w one I got in China which is really sticking out almost 13") so you're right at the edge of where the diffuser material would be. Now, it may be the case that you won't need the diffuser material. I still use mine sometimes when I need to tone down the light a bit. So its at those moments your glad to have a bit deeper softbox when you're using these bulbs. By the way, here is another 200w bulb but its pricier. They claim to be CRI of 90 and color temp is 5500K. Now you have two choices--but I don't have experience with this one so I can't tell you if its good. The other thing to look at on these is the ballast and whether its good and doesn't flicker. Most of the ones I've tried don't flicker--but I have found a couple in China which do.

http://www.teksupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&storeId=10001&productId=65629&langId=-1&division=TekSupply&pageId=ItemDetail&parent_category_rn=&top_category=&breadcrumb_trail=Lighting+Fixtures+%26+Bulbs%7CLight+Bulbs&breadcrumb_categoryIds=35044%7C35054&isDoc=
 

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