Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.
- Thread starter Ed Kishel
- Start date
Ed Kishel
Veteran
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...s&Q=&sku=335222&is=REG&addedTroughType=search
and if anyone is interested in buying one, better be quick as I have seen these sell out at B&H within a day or so and they take weeks to restock
and if anyone is interested in buying one, better be quick as I have seen these sell out at B&H within a day or so and they take weeks to restock
forsammyray
Member
Thanks again Ed for all you're doing here. Let me know if you find anything out about the HDR-FX1. I wish I lived closer - you could borrow mine LOL
By the way, YOU are the guy that has inspired me to actually try and build one of these... I have been watching their progress on various sites for sometime, usually wide-mouthed in shock at the prices being charged for an adapter like this. It wasn't until I saw yours that it snapped into place in my brain.
KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!!
By the way, YOU are the guy that has inspired me to actually try and build one of these... I have been watching their progress on various sites for sometime, usually wide-mouthed in shock at the prices being charged for an adapter like this. It wasn't until I saw yours that it snapped into place in my brain.
KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!!
Ed Kishel
Veteran
thanks, I'm glad its helping some people. Obviously the biggest thanks for this adapter version goes to Policar who came up with PVC idea first. With a little patience and elbow grease there is no reason these adapters have to be intimidating or expensive to build yourself.
Now, below is how the main housing is built:
In step 1 you snap the PVC into the 72mm Cokin holder/Empty UV filter (post #43). In the front of this piece plugs in the "sandwich" (post #59).
In step 2 you trim off 15mm from the front of the PVC. This screws onto step 1
In step 3 you cut a hole 20mm wide in the center of the PVC cap. You should use a hole saw available from home depot and a dewalt/hand drill. The hole saw is about $5 and you can rent a drill (or buy and return)
Then screw on the canon FD mount (or any camera mount you choose) to the front of the cap over the hole. You will want to use flush (or countersunk) screws avail at HD or Ace. Take your FD mount with you to make sure they will fit through the mount holes. Slide this over step 2. Then check for infinity focus. If you don’t have it, continue to sand down the back of step 3's PVC until the lens comes close enough to show focus at infinity on the Nikon screen.
I believe this covers all the steps. Those who are trying to build this I commend you as it isn’t easy, but the results will be worth if you are patient and take your time. If you hit a snag don’t give up, just message me for help.
If we cant trouble shoot your issue online, you can send me a part (not all your parts) you are having trouble with and I can do what I can to fix it. I can then send it back to you. BUT YOU BETTER SHIP ALONG A PRE-STAMPED BOX- I will not stand in line at the post office to ship your part back, but message me first.
When I get a hold of a another Nikon screen I will be building a second one to document on video. They are hard to come by as they are no longer made by Nikon, but keep an eye on ebay and call all your local camera shops.
Good luck!
Now, below is how the main housing is built:
In step 1 you snap the PVC into the 72mm Cokin holder/Empty UV filter (post #43). In the front of this piece plugs in the "sandwich" (post #59).
In step 2 you trim off 15mm from the front of the PVC. This screws onto step 1
In step 3 you cut a hole 20mm wide in the center of the PVC cap. You should use a hole saw available from home depot and a dewalt/hand drill. The hole saw is about $5 and you can rent a drill (or buy and return)
Then screw on the canon FD mount (or any camera mount you choose) to the front of the cap over the hole. You will want to use flush (or countersunk) screws avail at HD or Ace. Take your FD mount with you to make sure they will fit through the mount holes. Slide this over step 2. Then check for infinity focus. If you don’t have it, continue to sand down the back of step 3's PVC until the lens comes close enough to show focus at infinity on the Nikon screen.
I believe this covers all the steps. Those who are trying to build this I commend you as it isn’t easy, but the results will be worth if you are patient and take your time. If you hit a snag don’t give up, just message me for help.
If we cant trouble shoot your issue online, you can send me a part (not all your parts) you are having trouble with and I can do what I can to fix it. I can then send it back to you. BUT YOU BETTER SHIP ALONG A PRE-STAMPED BOX- I will not stand in line at the post office to ship your part back, but message me first.
When I get a hold of a another Nikon screen I will be building a second one to document on video. They are hard to come by as they are no longer made by Nikon, but keep an eye on ebay and call all your local camera shops.
Good luck!
Last edited:
Ed Kishel
Veteran
I should clarify this, you can use any mount you want providing it is not larger in diameter than 2" (so that it doesnt overlap the PVC).
That said, if you want to use a nikon mount, you have to call Nikon at 1-800-645-6687 option 4 to order the mounting ring seperately from the camera body. Or you can prowl ebay for parts cameras, or just buy this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...s&Q=&sku=116733&is=REG&addedTroughType=search
and remove the ring from the c-mount part. This will allow you to use Nikon lenses. For minolta users, same thing:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...s&Q=&sku=116964&is=REG&addedTroughType=search
And below is an ebay store that has all the rings, filters, macros that I used:
http://stores.ebay.com/Shiva-Kunal-Import-Company
That said, if you want to use a nikon mount, you have to call Nikon at 1-800-645-6687 option 4 to order the mounting ring seperately from the camera body. Or you can prowl ebay for parts cameras, or just buy this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...s&Q=&sku=116733&is=REG&addedTroughType=search
and remove the ring from the c-mount part. This will allow you to use Nikon lenses. For minolta users, same thing:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...s&Q=&sku=116964&is=REG&addedTroughType=search
And below is an ebay store that has all the rings, filters, macros that I used:
http://stores.ebay.com/Shiva-Kunal-Import-Company
Last edited:
ALBASIC Dude
Member
I loved the new footage. By the way, I noticed that the PVC cap is very rounded on the top. Did you sand that down to make it flatter? I only ask becuase I'm afraid I won't be able to screw the mount on (the screws might not reach.)
Ed Kishel
Veteran
it depends on which cap you get. The Nibco brand from Home Depot is slightly rounded yes, however since the mounting ring is open about 1 1/2" if will fit over the curve just fine. All 4 mounting holes make flush contact with the outer most part of the cap top. The Ace brand is as round as a lightbulb so that one will not work.
The Nibco can of course be sanded down if you want it really flat however I did not find it to be a problem.
The Nibco can of course be sanded down if you want it really flat however I did not find it to be a problem.
ALBASIC Dude
Member
I bought the Nibco pieces. I'm using a Minolta mount from a teleconverter lense, so it only has three screws. I'm getting the cap cut today, so I'll know tonight whether I need to sand or not.
I read that glass shops can get pieces of glass sandblasted for you. Do you think they would sandblast my PVC? I'm probably going to use an orbital sander on the surface of the PVC, but I really like the look you got with sandblasting. Very professional.
I read that glass shops can get pieces of glass sandblasted for you. Do you think they would sandblast my PVC? I'm probably going to use an orbital sander on the surface of the PVC, but I really like the look you got with sandblasting. Very professional.
so i got my unit finished.. im just waiting on my focus screen to arrive.. (hopefully today).. i will upload some pictures of my adapter as soon as i get the focus screen in.
instead of a CAP i just used the 2'' female adapter.. and screwed the male end directly to the female end and sandwhiched the ground glass between that.. it works really well..
my only problem im facing is that if i zoom my dvx in ALL the way, i cant focus onto the ground glass through the macro filter..it has to be zoomed out just a little bit.. has anyone else had this problem.. and is there a fix? (another macro filter perhaps?)
instead of a CAP i just used the 2'' female adapter.. and screwed the male end directly to the female end and sandwhiched the ground glass between that.. it works really well..
my only problem im facing is that if i zoom my dvx in ALL the way, i cant focus onto the ground glass through the macro filter..it has to be zoomed out just a little bit.. has anyone else had this problem.. and is there a fix? (another macro filter perhaps?)
Ed Kishel
Veteran
Albasic:
the actual sandblasting realy isnt necessary, I did it becuase I had access to one, and it helps the paint to adhear to the surface. If you have access to one great, if not you can take a razorblade and shave off the plastic bumps, then take sandpaper or a sander and rub the surface down well. Then you paint it with Rustoleum Epoxy Enamel (home depot: about $6) This paint is great, it creates a very hard powdercoat like surface, not sticky and glossy like reg black spraypaint. After it dried (a full day- DO NOT RUSH THE PAINT) I then I took matte clear coat (MUST be matte!) and dusted the surface from about 15" away a few times to get the textured metal look.
Zak:
You shouldnt need to zoom all the way in. I found that you should need to be between Z70 and Z80. And your macro shouldnt be a problem as long as it sits flush with the empty 72mm UV filter that the Cokin/PVC base is attached to. see post #43 again.
By the way, where did you guys find your Nikon D screens (if that is waht you are using)?
-Ed
the actual sandblasting realy isnt necessary, I did it becuase I had access to one, and it helps the paint to adhear to the surface. If you have access to one great, if not you can take a razorblade and shave off the plastic bumps, then take sandpaper or a sander and rub the surface down well. Then you paint it with Rustoleum Epoxy Enamel (home depot: about $6) This paint is great, it creates a very hard powdercoat like surface, not sticky and glossy like reg black spraypaint. After it dried (a full day- DO NOT RUSH THE PAINT) I then I took matte clear coat (MUST be matte!) and dusted the surface from about 15" away a few times to get the textured metal look.
Zak:
You shouldnt need to zoom all the way in. I found that you should need to be between Z70 and Z80. And your macro shouldnt be a problem as long as it sits flush with the empty 72mm UV filter that the Cokin/PVC base is attached to. see post #43 again.
By the way, where did you guys find your Nikon D screens (if that is waht you are using)?
-Ed
Last edited:
