My First Day Out With The Hvx200

I tested my camera today. I've had it for about a week. I purchased a 4 GB P2 card a few days ago so that I could start testing and recording in HD (I ordered 2 8GB cards and a P2 store on the same day I ordered the camera, but I'm still waiting for those items to arrive). Here are my observations (my opinions):

THINGS I LIKED:

1. The camera is well built. It's very solid and seems rugged. The lens is very nice. This camera is sort of a hybrid between a full sized pro camera and a pro-sumer dv camera. I say that because although it has a focus control and manual zoom control for instance, it does not have an iris wheel on the lens. This is no big deal as all of the controls are in the right places and accomplish all of the tasks a pro camera can perform (this is not a complaint).

2. When I first got the camera, it seemed a little overwhelming because of all of the menu options and settings. After a few days of playing with the camera and looking over the manual, I found that the camera is actually pretty simple and logical to use -- Good job Panasonic (and that's from someone who has never used a DVX before)!

3. The batteries last a long time. I spent hours setting up shots while leaving the camera on so that I could monitor the frame. I didn't need to change batteries very often. I'm guessing I could get through a day of shooting with just three batteries.

4. The first thing I shot was outdoor footage in a graveyard (I'm a little crazy). It was late afternoon and the sun was low in the sky. I shot in 720 24PN. I used the following settings (based on things Barry has said for lower noise and what I thought I would like -- I basically added a little more chroma and brought the blacks down a tiny bit): Detail Level -3, Detail Coring +7, Chroma Level +2, Master Ped -1, and Gamma Cinelike D. The graveyard footage looks amazing. It really has the look and feel of film. I was (am) very impressed.

5. While shooting, I used all manual controls for iris and focus, but I would occasionally switch to manual iris to see what the camera thought the exposure should be at. The auto iris control did a very nice job picking the proper exposure. Rarely did I have to sway from what the camera thought the iris should be set at.

6. The camera would also tell me to switch ND filters from time to time (this was/is very helpful).

7. I did some variable frame rate shots. The results were amazing. I've never seen a video camera in this price range pull off such clean and beautiful slow motion. This is a very cool feature.

8. The P2 card worked great. It worked flawlessly with Final Cut Pro HD. It's nice not having to use tape(s). P2 will be even quicker if Final Cut Pro figures out how to use the files in their native form. I hope this is coming soon.

9. I loved editing in DVCPRO HD. It really allows me to manipulate the video using color correction. I've edited HDV before and it was a slow and painful experience (lots of rendering effects and a big render before output). DVCPRO HD is great!

THINGS I DID NOT LIKE:

1. The LCD screen is not very sharp. It's hard to tell if things are in focus. You have to use the focus assist feature every time (which is not always the most accurate way to focus). It helps big time, but it is a little soft, too. It was difficult to focus some shots.

2. Although the P2 card worked well, I hated the 4GB cards capacity for HD shooting. It is not able to handle very much HD footage. I filled it up quickly. The 2 8GB cards I have on order will surely help, but they are very pricey. Give us a break Panasonic! Also, 16GB cards would make 1080 shooting more reasonable with this camera. If P2 cards do not have the ability to grow in size, I'm guessing P2 will be a failure. I don't want this to happen.

3. I don't like that the XLR inputs are on the front of the camera. This is an awkward place to put them.

4. The resolution of the camera is good, but you sure notice how lacking it is when you switch to an HD channel using the big dollar HD cameras. Honestly, although the HVX200 is much better than my Sony HC1 ($1000 HDV camera), it's resolution seems very similar. I've never tested the Canon XLH1, but I'm sure the higher resolution helps the image pop off the screen. I wonder if Panasonic didn't want to up the resolution on the camera in fear that it would be too similar to their big dollar varicams or if they just used much cheaper parts that just can't give the higher resolution. Because all of the other HDV cameras in this price range have higher resolution, I'm guessing Panasonic just didn't want to compete with its higher end 720p cameras.

NOTE:
I've heard a lot of people make excuses for this camera saying it's only $6000, but who are you trying to kid? By the time you buy P2 cards, this camera is much closer to $10,000.

4b: Also, the camera disappoints me in the resolution department in the 1080 mode. The resolution when switching to this mode is the same as when it is in the 720p mode. Sure, some of you have looked over the footage and say it's cleaner, but when you heard that Panasonic was including a 1080 24p mode, didn't you think that the resolution would go up a little when switching to this mode? I sure did. Good advertising Panasonic, you hooked me! Sorry if I sound angry, I am a little.

5. I also shot interior shots using my light kits. I really wanted to see how this camera would handle dramatic lighting. I shot a typical interview type setup (using 4 lights: A key, a fill, a backlight and a background light). This was a bit trickier to shoot than the graveyard. This camera does weird things in the darker areas of the frames. The noise can be very heavy in gradient areas (where the light goes from light to dark). This is a huge problem as I like to light very dramatic scenes (I sometimes even like to light with 1 light). You can't blame the noise on compression. You can see it before it goes to P2. I'm not sure how to handle this. I spent a long time trying to light in a way that hides the noise. I did get decent results, but it was painful. You can light the center of a white wall and bring the iris control up and down and watch the noise dance all around in the areas where the light starts to fall off. I would love to know how to get around this noise issue (Please help)! The camera also seems to add noise when the white balance is off (this is not good as sometimes I like to white balance with orange or blue in front of the lens to warm up or cool down a scene when you take the gel away). What's up with that?

6. On a few occasions I shot scenes that had big red objects in them. The camera did not handle these objects very well. They were very over saturated and caused some weird noise in one of the shots. I hope this only happened because I had my chroma at plus 2. I will have to turn it down to zero and do more testing.

7. Although I like the look of 24pn, it's very hard to do camera moves in that mode. Very slow moves in wide angle were OK, but if I sped up, it looked very strobe like. I don't notice that in action films. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to add pull down in Final Cut Pro or just get used to slowing down my camera moves?

That's the good, the bad and the ugly. This camera has the potential to be very good. I just have to learn how to work within its limits.

I look forward to hearing from HVX200 owners who have some advice. This was my first time out with the camera, so don't take my finding as the last word. I own this little baby now, so we are all in the same boat.

NOTE: I have video that shows everything I mentioned above. If you guys want, I will post it (just tell me how to do it). If video files are too much, I could provide still frames.

THANKS!!!
 
A warm white balance will add chroma noise, try crushing the blacks. 1/3" CCDs are just noisy and when you put an emphasis on color over resolution, it just makes it worse. Dont stretch your blacks, the camera just does not handle that well.

Reds are a problem for all video cameras, Sony and Canon handle them better but they also can look somewhat pastel. I suspect it has something to do with the green pixel shift. Get used to it, the DVX was like this as well. Some chroma blur in post can help.

1080p is indeed only a marginal improvement, and mainly only perceived in zoomed stills. 24PN can be jittery if you dont frame right, move right and control the DOF. It only looks like film if you treat it as such...



ash =o)
 
BTW, great user/premiere review -- the best one that I could read IMHO (you're free spirit/real indie = first step to be a great movie maker) [Congrats!]
 
i suggest cooling and warming through the menu, not with white balance. see if it helps
 
Awesome replies guys. I really appreciate the info. Keep it coming!

Ash,
You say crush the blacks. Would you do that in camera or in post? Would I just lower the pedestal setting more?
Also, what settings do you use with this camera? Are you getting good results using dramatic lighting?
With what I've seen so far, the noise isn't in the dark blacks, but in the brighter dark areas (I hope that makes sense). It's like the camera is trying to pull detail where there isn't any (just gradient light) slightly gradient areas. Do I just have to evenly light backgrounds that are noisy (like chroma keying)? This would give more of a flat look, no (and require a ton of soft light)?

Emanuel,
I will be happy to post the footage. I will look into this more when I get the time (perhaps tonight).

Shai,
Great tip on warming or cooling down a scene in camera. Thanks!

Lenilenapi,
I will try a slow shutter speed. Have you used 30p? I wonder if it would have the film look but without the harsh strobe look?
 
Good post. How did you decide on Detail Coring at +7 and your Master Ped at -1? I thought the going advice was to keep Coring at 0 and bring the Master Ped way down to -5/-6...
 
Bono,
I took the info from an older post from Barry. I think it was the advice he gave the guy who shot the awesome slow mo wolves footage. I shot outdoors and there is some snow on the ground, so I figured I would use those settings. The advice did not include bringing the pedestal down at all. Bringing the Coring to plus 7 was said to decrease the noise. Perhaps that's wrong.
What settings (all of them) do you use? I would love to try out some different settings. Perhaps the settings I used for the outdoor footage is not good for indoor lit shooting. I would love to hear Barry's advice about that. His settings did yield some beautiful shots outside. I really respect his opinion. He seems to know his stuff.
 
As far as shooting red, do you guys think I should bring the chroma level to zero or even bring it down lower, then add chroma in post? Would this help the red look more natural and noise free?
 
My experience so far has been to use post for all settings if at all possible. -2 ped is good but don't pop the chroma . Over light your scene. Check it by pulling down the iris to get a basic idea of what you can pull in post. Avoid middle values of low light. Light it above 35 candles if you plan to see it with little noise. You have more range on the highlights so push them a little. When you adjust your levels on post you will be surprized. But do some lightmeter tests to be safe. IT will blow out on the LCD but it may not be totally clipped. You have to test. WYSIWYG is not a reality of you plan on dramatic lighting.

I am still working out the details for an upcoming film. Will post results. It is nice to know others are hitting the same problems I am. (was afraid I was a crap DP)
 
Some great info here. I did some shooting today with my buddy's HVX.. which was mine but I passed on it to get a better price.

Putting the coring up to the max did help with the noise quite a bit as did lowering the detail and such. I also did find in my past shoot that bland... poorly light areas that are all in the middle bland tones really have the noise dancing around. I believe it's from the chroma. Unpon the advice of a few posts here, we light more dramatic and contrasty stuff today with highlights in the scene and deep blacks. Just as you said, the blacks are black.. and the highlights still have detail... We also found the gradiant areas going into these had less noise. When we took the highlights away and it turned to muddy low-light wash.. the noise began to come up a bit.. but it wasn't as bad in some of the scene settings.. and certainly after the detail and coring were dealt with.


Shots in front of a blown out window looked great.. and really wasn't that blown out. Silhouetted shots look simply awesome.... My DV cam looked like dogass compared to the HD today...

I also noticed the the component direct to the HVX looks so much better than the DVI connected to the G5 after it's been dumped onto the computer....

I do think it does require some tweeking.. and I'm also kind of starting to appreciate some grain and noise.... but just not the colorful chroma noise.. That must be minimized.....

I can also say that the LCD is a ***** to tell if you are in focus..... I can say one thing... USE THE VIEWFINDER... That's what it's there for.. It also helps to keep the weight of the camera stabilized.. It is a heavy biotch for holding it out for 5 minute interviews... A brace and or monopod will be a great asset...

So today was a good day. I didn't have to use my AK.... And, I figured out that the Viewfinde is a lot better for focusing... That the HVX looks good hooked up to a monitor... That the coring and detail.. as well as the cinema V look badass together... That highlights in a shot really make a dramatic difference on lowering the noise... and also noticed that this has a remarkable stock lens... Wide with a decent telephoto capability....

I was blown away by the silhouetted shots we got... and the amount of detail that is still picked up in the highlights and also the blacks....
 
Is Detail Coring basically just Noise Reduction? What are the consequences of setting it to +7?
 
Bono said:
Is Detail Coring basically just Noise Reduction?
No - it allows edge enhancement or not depending on how big the edge transition is. If black is 0%, white 100%, consider two edges, one rising from (say) 20% to 23%, the other 20% to 26%. With no coring, they both get the same amount of enhancement, start winding coring in, and there comes a time when the former will not receive enhancement, the latter still will. Increase it further and neither edge will receive enhancement (the edge transition would have to be more than 6% of black-white).

It was frequently used when I was a vision engineer in tube camera days, and every trick possible needed to be tried to get noise down. It relies on the theory that as edge enhancement will enhance the noise, the lower level detail (and noise) should be 'cored out', - not fed to the enhancement circuitry - so only relatively vivid transitions are enhanced. We tended not to use it, as it tended to give rise to effects whereby such as faces would look 'puddingy' - lacking in fine detail, but 'outlined' - the worst of what's now been coined 'the video look'. In practice, it was found more acceptable to reduce the overall level of detail enhancement if noise was a real problem.
What are the consequences of setting it to +7?
I don't know about this camera specifically, but I'd expect the noise to be reduced, along with all the fine detail. (Subtle may be a better word than fine - fine tends to imply lines close together, what's meant is detail where the difference between light and dark is relatively small.) Judging by my past experiences I'd expect a better compromise to result from turning the coring right down or off, and reducing overall detail enhancement instead.

(EDIT - It may be worth making clear that it's the DIFFERENCE between levels at an edge that is significant here, not whether they are in the low lights or high lights. Hence from a coring viewpoint a transition between (say) 3% and 6% is equivalent to that between (say) 80% and 83%.)
 
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Thanks for all of the replies guys.

The noise is in the mid-dark areas. It's hard to explain. Looking at it closely, things that fall off in the dark blacks are clean and things that are properly exposed look good, but somewhere in the low middle is extra noise. I've shown the footage to friends in the industry and they are very impressed with this camera. Most of the time they don't see the noise until I point it out. Once I do point it out, they easily see it.

It's hard to correct this noise in post. You can't crush your blacks down enough to do any good (in fact, I've found that making the image more contrasty in post makes the noise stronger). I guess I will just have to live with the noise if I want an image that has a lot of underexposed areas in it (and that may be fine for a lot of people). To get a very clean image, you have to use somewhat even lighting.

I really am very impressed with this camera. This was also my first day out with the camera. Someone told me that shooting in 1080 is the way to go. The image is not higher resolution, but it is cleaner (so I've heard, but not tested). I will have to test that when I get more P2 cards (my single 4GB is not enough).

I would love to post some stills or video files. Anyone know where I can go to do so? I looked at those free sites and they seem to be a real pain. I will pay a small fee to post (it's the least I can do for those of you who give me so much good free advice).

PS
I started color correcting in post. I like to bring the blacks down so they kiss zero and bring the whites up to 90. I then like to bring the chroma up. After doing this to a few clips, I quickly realized that I liked what the camera did with the image to begin with. Adding contrast made the image look less film-like. I got rid of all of the color correction on every clip but one. The one time I used correction was to fix a shot I underexposed. Wow, Panasonic did a great job with the gamma curves. You can't easily duplicate that in post.
 
How will it shange it? 24p seems to be less forgiving with camera moves than real film. I watch action movies from time to time and they do fast moves. Slow moves in 24p look decent, but what about when I reall want to move the camera? Would increasing or decreasing the shutter help? Will it hurt the image quality?
 
thefilmaddict said:
It's hard to correct this noise in post. You can't crush your blacks down enough to do any good (in fact, I've found that making the image more contrasty in post makes the noise stronger). I guess I will just have to live with the noise if I want an image that has a lot of underexposed areas in it.
1) And if not?

2) Did you try any filter to noiseless like the posted ones?
 
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