I just picked up a set of three cool lights.. the 4 X 55 dimming fluorescent ones.. after speaking with a DP last night he told me that spending the $150.00 extra for the dimming capabilities was not only not beneficial, but a bad thing.. apparently (and it makes sense) the dimming changes the color temperature so the lights won't match anything and they'll start throwing green and purple into the shot.. is this true?
just bought cool lights - is that the right choice?
- Thread starter DVXguy
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Cool Lights
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Different people have differing opinions on this. If you dim past about 50% you will see some shift in just about anything from fluorescent to LEDs and even somewhat in tungsten. Even up to 50% just a bit of shift. You can't dim HMI past 50% but there's some shift in that as well. Judging by our repeat sales of the dimming models--to same customers, it doesn't seem to be upsetting too many people though. They're actually more popular at this point than the non-dimming ones.
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thanks for the quick response.. I know the reviews are good and know sometimes DP's can be very particular in even the slightest flaws. realistically I'm using it for lower end productions where it doesn't make sense to send someone out to pick and return lights when we're doing a small interview or acoustic performance. so I'm sure it's not an issue for me.. I was more or less wondering if it made sense for me to throw down extra cash for that one feature..
monkeyking
Well-known member
A few sheets of 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 minus green gel in your kit would help in certain situations when you are dimming your fluos and need correction. I try to avoid dimming by turning off a bank or 2 or backing the light away if practical, but I don't hesitate to dim if needed. It's a great option to have.
Cool Lights LED 600 series offers both dimming capability and 5 individual bank switches for very flexible light control.
Options are always good.
Cool Lights LED 600 series offers both dimming capability and 5 individual bank switches for very flexible light control.
Options are always good.
Davdo
Active member
I own the non-dimming 455P. I love it. If I were to buy it today and not a year ago, would I get the dimming version? Not sure. Maybe.
If you've got the 4 tube model and you need less than 50% power, turn off 2 tubes. Then dim again. In theory, you can get down to as little as 25% power without shift.
Don't worry about your purchase. You'll be very happy.
~~Dave
If you've got the 4 tube model and you need less than 50% power, turn off 2 tubes. Then dim again. In theory, you can get down to as little as 25% power without shift.
Don't worry about your purchase. You'll be very happy.
~~Dave
I love my 4 bank non-dimming as well, it's many times the first light I bring out. Though, if I were doing it again today I would buy a dimming model just for those quick time saving tweaking moments. And if I buy a second one (somewhere on the list) I'll probably do just that.
...although I do wish cool lights made a 4 ft 4 bank
...although I do wish cool lights made a 4 ft 4 bank
Cool Lights
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...although I do wish cool lights made a 4 ft 4 bank
Me too! The projects that should be simplest always take the longest. I do hope we can finally get that out this year though. So many projects competing for my time.
Leo Versola
Well-known member
I have the 6 bank non-dimming model and haven't run into a situation yet where just switching banks off, moving the light or using diffusion didn't do the trick. I have to do the same with my CDM-150's anyway since you can't dim them like tungstens...
That said however, I'm really starting to appreciate the dimming feature on my LED600's and the flexibility of being to dial in just the right amount of light quickly and easily.
I always have some 1/2 minus green and some CTO gels handy to make sure I can match other lighting if necessary...
That said however, I'm really starting to appreciate the dimming feature on my LED600's and the flexibility of being to dial in just the right amount of light quickly and easily.
I always have some 1/2 minus green and some CTO gels handy to make sure I can match other lighting if necessary...
Macville
Well-known member
Are these going to look like the 4' Kinos? IE: External ballast, uses the 4' kino T12 lamps, lightweight, etc.
Matthew
puredrifting
Major Contributor
Dimming soft sources is for lazy people. Turn off a bank, put some Cinefoil or a flag/scrim/eggcrate on it or walk the light back.
LEDs and fluorescents do bad things when they are dimmed. Tungsten at least is predictable how it behaves when dimmed.
Dan
LEDs and fluorescents do bad things when they are dimmed. Tungsten at least is predictable how it behaves when dimmed.
Dan
Cool Lights
DVXuser Sponsor
Of course--on something that big, its the only way to go. If you tried to put the ballast inside, you'd overpower the lollipop pretty quickly. Plus, I know many people favor being able to split the tubes out from the fixture one at a time to tape places so this will be our first venture out into that kind of versatility.
It will most likely look like our portable flos, but longer and external ballast with the long cables from ballast to the fixture. Thus, it will be stronger than a kino 4' type--at least same weight or even a bit lighter.