Understanding and Optimizing the Nikon D90 D-Movie Mode Image

Hi Kholi,

I did my shoot where I wanted to combine D90 720p video sequences with downrezzed D90 pixilation. The video sequences were shot at a metro station. Some early morning with only artificial (available) lighting, some later in the day with plenty of ambient light coming through the station's windows.

What I was aiming for did not work out. I mean combining the footage. The qualitative difference is huge and while I could "degrade" the still image sequences in post I didn't want to.

The video sequences were acceptable especially coming from a still camera. What I find the biggest shortcoming, however, is not even the lack of manual control but the absolute lack of information about the settings a certain clip has. Someone has already posted about the histogram (unfortunately not live!, unlike with a Canon) for checking exposure range. That is of course so, but to "trick" the camera in a semi-intelligent way we would need to know what ISO and shutter settings the camera used. This is something I'd bug Nikon with!

I'd like to do more testing, but since I borrowed the camera from a store only for the shoot, right now I cannot.

Cheers,

szornyeteg

p.s.: does anybody know if the Canon 5D Mark II offers manual controls or at least feedback info for video sequences?
 
fahreza said:
i can't even see the download version. i can only see the one on vimeo. tried to download it and it stoppped halfway, when i tried to resume it asks for passwords and such. will try to download it again, i'm curious...
Click to expand...

Go to the bottom right of the page there will be a little link for the .MOV (Register for Vimeo, that could be another reason you don't see it...)

I thought it looked like film though many could disagree, it was a good attempt.
 
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szornyeteg said:
Hi Kholi,

I did my shoot where I wanted to combine D90 720p video sequences with downrezzed D90 pixilation. The video sequences were shot at a metro station. Some early morning with only artificial (available) lighting, some later in the day with plenty of ambient light coming through the station's windows.

What I was aiming for did not work out. I mean combining the footage. The qualitative difference is huge and while I could "degrade" the still image sequences in post I didn't want to.

The video sequences were acceptable especially coming from a still camera. What I find the biggest shortcoming, however, is not even the lack of manual control but the absolute lack of information about the settings a certain clip has. Someone has already posted about the histogram (unfortunately not live!, unlike with a Canon) for checking exposure range. That is of course so, but to "trick" the camera in a semi-intelligent way we would need to know what ISO and shutter settings the camera used. This is something I'd bug Nikon with!

I'd like to do more testing, but since I borrowed the camera from a store only for the shoot, right now I cannot.

Cheers,

szornyeteg

p.s.: does anybody know if the Canon 5D Mark II offers manual controls or at least feedback info for video sequences?
Click to expand...

Told ya man. That's what the guide is for, basically. To get a clean image ,even if you don't know exactly what ISO it's at. I'm basically having to talk myself into keepin' the D90 but will probably end up moving to a 5D MKII myself.
 
BMFM FILMS said:
Go to the bottom right of the page there will be a little link for the .MOV (Register for Vimeo, that could be another reason you don't see it...)

I thought it looked like film though many could disagree, it was a good attempt.
Click to expand...

Thanks, i did exactly that and am already registered at vimeo when i tried it the first time. So anyway, something weird with server connection or whatever. I hope to see more :)
 
a. what is the format this thing records? compression? bitrate? ect
b. what are the option for sound recording?
 
I've read through this thread and I'm yet to find a clear answer to a question that has been asked a couple of times: can you use the AF/manual lenses (like the 50mm 1.8D AF) in the same way as the AIS lenses without doing the taping-over thing?

Please somebody clarify, as I'm in tne process of buying lenses for my D90.
 
I don't have any manual aperture ring AF lenses, but my understanding is that you need to exit and re-enter LiveView after each take unless you tape over the pins if you want to adjust aperture at the ring during your take.

From a price and handling standpoint I would prefer the AI(s) lenses for video, being especially careful to choose the more solid ones like the 50mm f1.4 over the f1.8 because the focus ring is more dampened. Many of these can be found used at excellent prices on eBay and from Keh but do watch that the focus hasn't gotten dried out and gritty over the years.
 
Right You need a Non-Cpu lens. For one with a CPU you have to do this:

1. Aperture Priorit mode
2. Put the Lens @ F22 or Auto Mode
3. Set the Aperture with the Aperture Wheel on the front of the camera to f5.6 or 8 (electronic aperture)
4. Activate LV mode while pointing at the source
5. THEN unlock the wheel to engage the manual Iris. It'll throw an error but it's fine for recording.

kholi, i don't know if it takes up too much bandwidth to say this, but thanks!!!! worked like a charm and made me happy!
 
Wow, i followed the instructions and bought the lens and its brilliant. Thank you so much. If id stuck with the kit lens i would be crying bitter tears of regret! Thank god for the internet. Thank you Kholi.. now to shoot that short!
ben
 
Please Ben, specifically what lens did you buy? Full model number please. I have an old (but clean) Nikkor-H.C Auto 1:2 f=50mm lens that fit on my D90 but the aperture ring seemed to bind and would not turn. I took it off and haven't mounted it since.
 
mhood said:
Please Ben, specifically what lens did you buy? Full model number please. I have an old (but clean) Nikkor-H.C Auto 1:2 f=50mm lens that fit on my D90 but the aperture ring seemed to bind and would not turn. I took it off and haven't mounted it since.
Click to expand...

Do not attempt to use that lens unless you modify it. That would be a Pre-AI or NAI (Non AI) lens, and if it pushes too hard or too often on the switch it is binding upon you will have a large repair bill. There are instructions on converting Pre-AI lenses if you google, or I've posted links before too. Its not too hard, and given the low value of the lens, its certainly worth a try... I've done 4 of them, they take about an hour of filing and 5 minutes of other work.

For manual lenses, you want AI or AI-S lenses only, Pre-AI might damage the body. Any AF lens will safely fit, but I definitely prefer the functionality of the manual lenses.
 
Glad some of this is helping people and, thanks Thebes, for steppin' in as well!

Lee Wilsons fix should offer some more leverage for the low cost solution, I'm lookin' forward to trying that as well when I get my camera back.
 
And thanks to you, sir. I tried out a manual 50mm AI lens for my first footage with the D90, using your method of course, and the image is incredible. There is absolutely no comparison between the image u can get w the Koli method next to just locking exposure w an AF lens.
 
I love this camera. It's awesome for video messaging and making lil home videos for sure.

I'm annoyed by the fluorescent/ shutter problem that gives the image a crawling smoke effect though. Any tips on how to quickly resolve it? I have to spend minutes pointing at light sources and locking til the camera auto decides it away :|

http://www.vimeo.com/2000634 My video here has alot of it at the start!
 
BandanaDan said:
I love this camera. It's awesome for video messaging and making lil home videos for sure.

I'm annoyed by the fluorescent/ shutter problem that gives the image a crawling smoke effect though. Any tips on how to quickly resolve it? I have to spend minutes pointing at light sources and locking til the camera auto decides it away :|

http://www.vimeo.com/2000634 My video here has alot of it at the start!
Click to expand...

It's the whole 50hz thing yeah?
 
I have done one shoot at work (production house) with the D90 and two different lenses. This was in our studio with 4x4 Kino Flow lights.
When having this much light and taking closeups it locked on pretty quick to 50hz. When lettin the D90 freewheel until the 50hz banding stops and then locking the AE. This is trickier in low light but looks good after you adjust the aperature towards 2.8-2.0.
 
BandanaDan said:
I love this camera. It's awesome for video messaging and making lil home videos for sure.

I'm annoyed by the fluorescent/ shutter problem that gives the image a crawling smoke effect though. Any tips on how to quickly resolve it? I have to spend minutes pointing at light sources and locking til the camera auto decides it away :|

http://www.vimeo.com/2000634 My video here has alot of it at the start!
Click to expand...

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=149171

This is the only way to get around it for now.
 
re: the waves of doom / rolling shutter

Just an observation here, I'm no CMOS expert so excuse me if I'm saying something painfully obvious.. generally I've experienced the above problem across an entire image. Nothing odd about that. But recently I did a shoot with an Fluorescent Interfit light and the banding was strange..

In the background, out of focus and underexposed, was a street light. The rolling shutter only seems visible here, and the foreground - which is in focus, and properly exposed - seems to have no sweeping effect at all. A bit strange? Maybe just an optical illusion?

I converted the footage to back and white, changed the levels a bit and now banding isn't visible at all. Worth uploading a few example clips? Or have I missed something stupid here. Maybe my eyes are like the D90's video.
 
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