Understanding and Optimizing the Nikon D90 D-Movie Mode Image

Can someone explain to me why you don't have full control over shutter speed and ISO while using a lens that the D90 can't meter through (AI lens, for example) ? If the camera can't meter, why would it be making ISO or shutter adjustments ?
 
cacophony said:
Can someone explain to me why you don't have full control over shutter speed and ISO while using a lens that the D90 can't meter through (AI lens, for example) ? If the camera can't meter, why would it be making ISO or shutter adjustments ?
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We're all hoping that the Nikon will release a firmware upgrade that will allow you to control the ISO and more importantly the shutter before entering LiveView Mode. It's a little heartbreaking right now... only thing to do is bug Nikon about updating the Firmware for the camera, and hope they do it.

Unless you are a programmer/hacker who wants to hack the camera's firmware for everyone. :-)
 
cacophony said:
Can someone explain to me why you don't have full control over shutter speed and ISO while using a lens that the D90 can't meter through (AI lens, for example) ? If the camera can't meter, why would it be making ISO or shutter adjustments ?
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Rather than thinking of D-Movie as an adjunct to the still photographic features of the D90, realize that it is a feature tacked onto Live View. Live View chooses a CMOS shutter speed and ISO to allow for a reasonable preview image for the still photographer's picture, rather than using the ISO, mechanical shutter speed, and aperture that are set chosen for the actual making of the still image. D-Movie is a quick and simple way to record that stream of info from Live View.
 
i have a quick question.. i rember reading this somewhere else but i could have mis-read it. Are u able to save the settings as a preset? Once u cheat the and lock camera into the low iso and shutter setting. Is there a way to save the setting?
 
Thebes said:
Rather than thinking of D-Movie as an adjunct to the still photographic features of the D90, realize that it is a feature tacked onto Live View. Live View chooses a CMOS shutter speed and ISO to allow for a reasonable preview image for the still photographer's picture, rather than using the ISO, mechanical shutter speed, and aperture that are set chosen for the actual making of the still image. D-Movie is a quick and simple way to record that stream of info from Live View.
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This is hands-down the best, clearest explanation I've read of why D-Movie mode is so peculiar. Thank you! Somebody should give you a raise.
 
I don't know if its been mentioned or not but thanks for taking the time to post all that great info Kholi. Greatly appreciated.

All the best,

Manny
 
Thankyou Kholi and everyone for sharing such important and useful information. I do not own a D90 but am interested primarily because of the D-movie feature. I've read the other thread, the one with over 250 pages, and this, I've learned a lot and now I know what to expect (and what not to) from the camera. I am planning to save some money and someday buy this D90, in the meantime, I will just learn from you good people. Thank you again...
 
Thank you Kholi, I'm happy to see someone trying to get the best from D90 D-Movie feature whereas many others just throw it away...I'm eager to buy it in France, but I'm still worried because of Wobbles and still could change my mind... Anyway, I have asked to Nikon France on its web site if a future firmware will fix wobble...wait and see.

Well, let's go back to business. Even if I don't have D90 in my hands I have a suggestion to do about focusing in D-Movie mode. This idea ruins the low depth of field but allow not to have to focus continously and could be a good trick for noob (like me):
Set focal and aperture and focus at hyperfocal distance or near so that you have sharpness from half the hyperfocal to infinity.

It is also possible to tweak this by focusing before hyperfocal and set a depth of field corresponding to the length of the room where kids are running indoor.
For example, with the help of http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html:

With the 18-105 mm VR lens : at 18 mm and f8 and focusing at 1.5m you have sharpness from to 0.9m to 4.75m So no need to focus if kids running inside this sharpness window.

I have launch this idea in dpreview forum, but no body was interested to talk about the interest or not to use hypefocal. They just said that it is not a good idea to use it at main video camrecorder. Well, I still hope...

What do you think of that idea of hyperfocal?

Bye
 
Lens selection

Lens selection

Kholi said:
SECTION THREE
​

DISCLAIMER (9:28 PM PACIFIC) -- No matter what method you use, the key ingredient to repeatable results will be a Manual Lens.

After you're done being mad at me, strap on a Nikon Nikkor 50/1.4 (or Similar) and try this:

....1. Without engaging LV mode, set the camera in Manual Mode. If you're already in
....... Live View, exit. NOTE: The Viewfinder will automatically disengage the meters
....... (AE-L (hold)) If you wait too long. The original time is four (4) seconds. You
....... can set the time-limit to a longer length by going to: Menu > Custom Settings (Pencil Icon) > C (Timers/Ae-Lock) > Auto Meter-off Delay > Select amount of time.
....2. Turn on AE-L (hold), you can check to see if it's active by peerin' into the viewfinder for the AE-L icon.
....3. Close your Iris down to an f5.6 ~ 8
....4. Aim the camera at a wall or surface that's brightly lit. It should not be blown out, but bright. ....I would say just about sixty-percent (60%) Exposed or a little more.
....5. Activate LV mode.
....6. Open the Iris to a 2.8 or 1.4 and check the cleanliness. Not to mention the 1/30 ~ 1/60th shutter. Mmmmm. Delightful.
Click to expand...

Hey guys, this is a great resource. Im so glad someone is taking their time to share all this info. I just recently got the D90. I want to get a 50mm lens that you've mentioned. The new ones are the AUTO/MANUAL ones, as opposed to some you can get on ebay which are only manual. I was going to get a 50mm anyway, but it was going to be the auto/manual one until I read up on this stuff here. Can I still get the same results with the auto/manual lens as with the full manual lens? Is the only nuisance that I have to "reset" it when going back out from LV mode after shooting video?
Thanks!!!
 
Someone had suggested that taping over the pins on the lens might get rid of the nuisance of needing to exit and re-enter Live View with AF lenses that include an aperture ring. Many new AF lenses don't have aperture rings, though the 50mm f1.8D does.

With an older lens, make sure its really AI or AI-s, not a Non-AI which has been partly converted. There is a switch on the outside of the camera's lensmount at about 8 o'clock as you look towards the lens from in front of it. If the aperture ring presses down on this switch at all while mounting, the lens it is probably unsafe to use. Its pretty easy to "convert" these yourself with a file and a jeweler's screwdriver... while I did mine I also ground out the detents for the aperture so I have a nice smooth iris to adjust while shooting.
 
Kholi said:
Ha! Found out how to stop it from turning off so fast:

Menu > Custom Settings (Pencil Icon) > C (Timers/Ae-Lock) > Auto Meter-off Delay > Select amount of time.

Up to 30 Minutes before it turns off if you want. Set my own to 1 minute. Updating the method.
Click to expand...

So this means that you can record up to 30 minutes straight instead of the 5 min limit?
 
Quick question, as I'm on the verge of buying one.

When you lock the exposure for video mode... do you have to go through the menu each time to adjust it when you want to switch back and take still photos?
 
MikeyPOTG said:
Quick question, as I'm on the verge of buying one.

When you lock the exposure for video mode... do you have to go through the menu each time to adjust it when you want to switch back and take still photos?
Click to expand...

When you set up the AE-L button to lock and hold exposure, to change the function of this button requires going back into the menu. BUT, turning exposure lock on and off only requires pressing the button to toggle the feature. I certainly don't bother to change how the button works when I use the camera for still photos.
 
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