The end of 35mm adapers and hv20s....

Kholi said:
1) If my "theory" (as ghetto as it is) is correct, using the exposure setting adjusts your shutter speed manually. If you set it at a positive value then it overrides, I think, the camera's auto shutter value setting. Same thing as negative value being a high speed shutter. When it goes in and out of LV (Live View) mode the camera employs a quick ISO adjustment or, what we're used to calling it around here, a gain adjustment: it seeks out what it thinks is the right amount of light to see everything in the image as opposed to actually caring whether the image looks great or not.
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Just so we're talking about the same thing here's another thing you said:
"You close the iris down to about a f5.6~8 and point it toward a properly exposed spot or a shadow, activate LV mode and immediately lock the AE-L (LOCK). That stops the auto gain/ISO from kicking in. Then, you can open the iris as much as you would like for exposure."

So I'm still confused...

Why don't your instructions in the second quote mention anything about using easy exposure if that step is needed?

And if you're stopping down the lens and pointing at a shadow area, then why wouldn't the quick ISO adjustment in LV mode cause it to drastically increase the ISO? An ISO increase is the logical thing that would happen in low light with a stopped down lens after all.
 
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Kholi said:
I don't believe that's right. I've gotten it down to F22~32 by putting the Auto 18-105 lens at it's telephoto end. The problem is that even if you lock it there, once you switch out of LV to 'jimmy' the ISO it goes away.

Tsk.
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http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-9314-9569

The D90 allows you to select the aperture (from wide open to f/8) prior to commencing, then it handles the adjusting of ISO and shutter speed automatically as needed to maintain video brightness as lighting conditions change during recording.
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Not sure where he got this info but I've seen it all over the place.
 
kevm14 said:
http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-9314-9569



Not sure where he got this info but I've seen it all over the place.
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I don't see F8 as being the smallest aperture but I'll try it again. It looked to totally be a closed aperture at f22 even outdoors. However! The end of that sentence pretty much sums it up: the camera tries to control the ISO and Shutter.


Caco -- I did mention using the Exposure Value in another post, but honestly need to grab some food before I pass out so can't go into much detail.

The idea is right: use shadow or light to gain the proper exposure value. I'll detail it as soon as I can and do video examples of it as well so that it makes more sense.

The bottom line is, however, that you need to use bright and dark sources in conjunction with a closed or smaller aperture to 'dupe' the camera into the proper, cleaner ISO rating.
 
Standing on Soap Box.......... It is pretty clear (not talking RED) that the next trend from all the major Camcorder Manufactures will have larger sensors. Perhaps the APS size similar to the D90's

Would that cool to have a big sensor, interchangeable lens HVX !!!

I'm still waiting for a 4"x5" sensor for my Sinar P view camera !!!!

frisco
 
frisco said:
Standing on Soap Box.......... It is pretty clear (not talking RED) that the next trend from all the major Camcorder Manufactures will have larger sensors. Perhaps the APS size similar to the D90's
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I'm not sure about that. People forget (not necessarily you) that large sensors require large optics for a given speed and field of view. Those 10x fast zooms in camcorders wouldn't be feasible if the sensor was several times the size. If you think about it, dSLRs have the largest sensors compared to their overal body volume of any commercial product (either APS-C or full 35mm frame). Honestly, the only place I see a trend is RED-copiers. But for consumer stuff? I dunno.
 
I have a few questions which I hope have not been asked. If they have sorry.

In video mode what setting mode works: Auto, P, A, S, M etc. ?

Is the Aperture selectable with the newer Nikon lenses or do you have to use an older manual lens?
 
scsz said:
I have a few questions which I hope have not been asked. If they have sorry.

In video mode what setting mode works: Auto, P, A, S, M etc. ?
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http://www.dpreview.com/previews/nikond90/page2.asp

• Exposure: Determined with matrix metering utilizing output from the image sensor
• Exposure lock available
• Exposure compensation available in P, S, A, M modes

You can also apply Picture Control settings to movies (sharpening, custom jpeg exposure curves, saturation, hue) or one of the presets
si basically you can adjust all image parameters (custom curves are raw->jpeg mapping curves) and also use +- compensation with video.
 
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It should be kept in mind that that link leads to the D90 preview which has already been shown to be incorrect in a number of key ways, claiming that the camera does things that it does not. I wouldn't buy the camera based on what is promised in that (p)review.

ando said:
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/nikond90/page2.asp

• Exposure: Determined with matrix metering utilizing output from the image sensor
• Exposure lock available
• Exposure compensation available in P, S, A, M modes

You can also apply Picture Control settings to movies (sharpening, custom jpeg exposure curves, saturation, hue) or one of the presets
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Texanite said:
It should be kept in mind that that link leads to the D90 preview which has already been shown to be incorrect in a number of key ways, claiming that the camera does things that it does not. I wouldn't buy the camera based on what is promised in that (p)review.
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well as you can see the experts here don't know what picture control or compensation is so don't expect to find proof of them working or not

it seems http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/D90/D90A.HTM is wrong too, according to the "experts" here
 
I'm going to assume that sharpening isn't going to improve anything. In fact, cranking sharpening to the lowest setting might ease the burden on the MJPEG compression and provide a cleaner result after post processing/sharpening, unless the variable bitrate just lowers itself to compensate for the lack of sharp edges in the video. Thoughts?
 
kevm14 said:
I'm going to assume that sharpening isn't going to improve anything. In fact, cranking sharpening to the lowest setting might ease the burden on the MJPEG compression and provide a cleaner result after post processing/sharpening, unless the variable bitrate just lowers itself to compensate for the lack of sharp edges in the video. Thoughts?
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sharpening no, it won't help much

but exposure curves, hue and saturation would make for nice movie film-type presets stored in-camera. if it works as dpreview or imaging-resource said then you'd be able to change the exposure mapping of that recording (google for "nikon custom curves" to understand what they do), something impossible without shooting raw video

anyway the whole idea of picture controls is one of the most valuable tools for this feature. changing film type on camera, on location

compensation would force the variable setting to be more the way you like, it has a +- 5EV range
 
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ando said:
well as you can see the experts here don't know what picture control or compensation is so don't expect to find proof of them working or not

it seems http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/D90/D90A.HTM is wrong too, according to the "experts" here
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I don't know if that link is right or not. I do know that the DPreview link indicates that the camera has an intervalometer under the Shooting menu. Is that accurate or not, ando?
 
Kholi said:
I can't say that it's better. =\ Which doesn't help anyone. LOL. It's fun! For now, but the DVX100B is a fully manual, fully dedicate apparatus; the d90's D-Movie mode is just an afterthought.

I like what you can do with it, the implementation lacks sorely, though. Wouldn't sell my DVX100 + 35mm Adapter combo for it. But would have it on stand-by as a second unit option in conjunction with.
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Yes, but I was on my way to buy a DVX100, and a funny thing happened. The D90 was released! Should I still buy the DVX or go with the D90. I don't think I've seen any samples that look as good coming out of the DVX as far as color rendition/saturation and contrast as I've seen with the D90. For now, I'm just going to do music videos. At this point in the game, should I invest in the DVX or just work around the D90s limitations.

This question is for anybody else with tons of experience to answer if they would care to as well. Thanks!
 
Texanite said:
I don't know if that link is right or not. I do know that the DPreview link indicates that the camera has an intervalometer under the Shooting menu. Is that accurate or not, ando?
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can't find intervalometer mentioned on any d90 preview site
if you saw that probably was removed

i think camera control pro 2 may solve the issue if you need it. it would also stream live view to your pc

i wait for the experts to verify picture controls, curves and compensation before moving to the next subject ( i know they work, nikon knows as well http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/d90/en/d-movie/ "By choosing Picture Control before shooting,
you can give your movies the tones and colors you prefer." but we have to give credit to the masters)

can you do that with a $999 camcorder? i bet 5d if it has movies won't have that. unless you buy a 1ds you don't get custom curves on canon.
 
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Kholi said:
Caco -- I did mention using the Exposure Value in another post, but honestly need to grab some food before I pass out so can't go into much detail.

The idea is right: use shadow or light to gain the proper exposure value. I'll detail it as soon as I can and do video examples of it as well so that it makes more sense.

The bottom line is, however, that you need to use bright and dark sources in conjunction with a closed or smaller aperture to 'dupe' the camera into the proper, cleaner ISO rating.
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Great, thanks.

I would think if you wanted to ensure a low ISO you would make the aperture as large as possible and meter off a bright light. That way the camera will think it needs a fast shutter speed and/or low ISO in order to expose properly.

Of course, you don't want a fast shutter speed. But if you use a small aperture and meter off a dark corner, wouldn't it have the opposite effect? (ie the camera would think it needs a slow shutter speed and/or high ISO in order to expose properly)

I think a more detailed set of step by step instructions would definitely help.
 
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