The end of 35mm adapers and hv20s....

jon.clovis@comcast.net said:
hi i am new...and just got the d 90...does anybody no how to get this thing to work,in low light...i have a lot video cams with low light..like the cannon..hv-30 and hf-10..
and they do very good...the nikon has a big chip..and i cant get it to go doen to 1/30 sec,
and its very bad at low light....john
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Seeing some of the low light sample picts on the web, and some of the comments / reviews of seasoned professional photographers that have had access to the camera prior it's release, I can assure you that I doubt the fault is to be found with the camera.

Here is a funny quote that should summarized the problem:

"My Nikon contact tells me their R&D people are now working on a system that eliminates the photographer altogether. Nikon's customer research has discovered that when a photographer takes a great image, they claim all the credit. But when a photographer takes a bad image, they blame the camera." :)
 
SomewhereinLA said:
Seeing some of the low light sample picts on the web, and some of the comments / reviews of seasoned professional photographers that have had access to the camera prior it's release, I can assure you that I doubt the fault is to be found with the camera.

Here is a funny quote that should summarized the problem:

"My Nikon contact tells me their R&D people are now working on a system that eliminates the photographer altogether. Nikon's customer research has discovered that when a photographer takes a great image, they claim all the credit. But when a photographer takes a bad image, they blame the camera." :)
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Go get a D-90 and help us out then! :cheesy:

we are trying hard... well not me, but kholi, zak and drew are!
 
nikon D300

nikon D300

Is there someone with a Nikon D300 and a Blackmagic Intensity capture card ? Perhaps this camera will have something more usable...
It has the same 24fps modes but you cannot record it.. However, the HDMI can be recorded via the HDMI. Also, the processing circuitry is better so the rolling shutter and debayering should be better..
 
I've been doing tests all day. I haven't uploaded anything because I'm still not satisfied with what I'm doing.

In my experiments, I've discovered that wide shots look terrible most of the time. When I shoot at the long end of the kit lens (105mm) and shoot something up close, the perceived resolution is very nice. Going full wide and shooting an entire room has looked terrible in my experience. It also seems like some times the entire image is incredibly noisy even in bright light. Other times it's very clean. I'll need to do more testing. Kholi has found something that works with a manual lens, but I don't have anything other than the auto kit lens.

On a related note, does anybody know a good place to buy used lenses other than eBay? I'm looking for a manual 50mm f/1.4.
 
Drew Ott said:
I've been doing tests all day. I haven't uploaded anything because I'm still not satisfied with what I'm doing.

In my experiments, I've discovered that wide shots look terrible most of the time. When I shoot at the long end of the kit lens (105mm) and shoot something up close, the perceived resolution is very nice. Going full wide and shooting an entire room has looked terrible in my experience. It also seems like some times the entire image is incredibly noisy even in bright light. Other times it's very clean. I'll need to do more testing. Kholi has found something that works with a manual lens, but I don't have anything other than the auto kit lens.

On a related note, does anybody know a good place to buy used lenses other than eBay? I'm looking for a manual 50mm f/1.4.
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Check your local Consignment shop or so. I've read that people pick up great Nikon lenses all the time form there.

my subject is sick right now so I can't light her up and shoot. In the meantime, I'll futz around with the auto lens for you to see if I can get the trick to work properly, Drew.
 
Drew Ott said:
I've been doing tests all day. I haven't uploaded anything because I'm still not satisfied with what I'm doing.

In my experiments, I've discovered that wide shots look terrible most of the time. When I shoot at the long end of the kit lens (105mm) and shoot something up close, the perceived resolution is very nice. Going full wide and shooting an entire room has looked terrible in my experience. It also seems like some times the entire image is incredibly noisy even in bright light. Other times it's very clean. I'll need to do more testing. Kholi has found something that works with a manual lens, but I don't have anything other than the auto kit lens.

On a related note, does anybody know a good place to buy used lenses other than eBay? I'm looking for a manual 50mm f/1.4.
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www.keh.com
 
Thanks for the links.

Here are some grabs to show what I'm talking about with the wide-bad and telephoto-good (I haven't noticed this trend in anybody's videos but my own).

Wide:
1220829107.jpg


Telephoto:
1220829742.jpg
 
Yup, that's what I saw too, Drew. All the noise in the darker areas speaks of "meh" to me. I really think that manual lenses are the prime way to go unless you don't care about the gain/grain going on.
 
zcream said:
Is there someone with a Nikon D300 and a Blackmagic Intensity capture card ? Perhaps this camera will have something more usable...
It has the same 24fps modes but you cannot record it.. However, the HDMI can be recorded via the HDMI. Also, the processing circuitry is better so the rolling shutter and debayering should be better..
Click to expand...

I have access to both these items and even a D700 with the bigger FX sensor. However, you do not want to do this. Let me list the reasons why:

1)With the HDMI capable Nikons, the HDMI output includes the UI info overlay that cannot be turned off.

2)Framerate/image refresh is heavily dependent on the light/darkness of the scene and not consistant.

3)You cannot exposure lock the LV from these cameras.

4)You cannot control the shutter speed or aperture in LV, those are only used for taking the actual still shot.

So while these cameras can output a 720p/1080i footage over HDMI, its only good for focussing and composing for taking still images and quite useless for capturing on a video/cine project.
 
Sorry to be an idiot. I am gonna take a trip to my local used lens emporium in the morning in preparation for the uk release.

Dont really know much about nikon.
my shopping spec....I want a...

f mount manual lens
Obiously close to 1.4 50mm prime or near as poss (a good start).
d90 multiplies by 1.5 so 35mm closer to 50etc
Primes are gonna be better because more turn to focus (focusing 1 inch turn from 1 foot to infinity is a nightmare for critical focus)
These Nikon lens have been about a loooong time....anything I should avoid?
..is this correct?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

EL-prez:)
 
Kholi said:
Yup, that's what I saw too, Drew. All the noise in the darker areas speaks of "meh" to me. I really think that manual lenses are the prime way to go unless you don't care about the gain/grain going on.
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My main concern is in the wide though. The whole area is lit well, but the grain/gain moves around violently throughout the whole shot.
 
Drew Ott said:
My main concern is in the wide though. The whole area is lit well, but the grain/gain moves around violently throughout the whole shot.
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It's honestly because the camera doesn't know any better. It looks like it's more concerned with being able to see the painting as opposed to being able to paint it well. I.E wants to make sure there's more light without caring how the image looks.

That's why the manual lens will do well. Let me strap on the 17-35 and see what I get for a wide shot.
 
hunter richards said:
No intervelometer? I will be extremely disappointed if that was mis-information- that was one of the main reasons (besides video) that I wanted the D90.
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I dunno who started it but it was in all liklihood cut and paste laziness. No Nikon in this class ever had an intervalometer before, at least.
 
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