The end of 35mm adapers and hv20s....

Don't think it does, either. Not seeing anything.

Unless you activate it in the Vivid preset?

D-lighting seems to be way more processor intensive than the regular image settings. You can see this in the continuous motor drive speeds for the various late model dSLRs sporting active D-lighting as well as the depth of the buffers.
 
have you guys tried shooting in 480p? see if the bitrate is different?

Now, that's a thought. LOL. I can't imagine that it would have better 480p than 720p downscaled? But.. you know... I also couldn't imagine not bein' able to control shutter...
 
a little more than that. probably closer to $3000. Heart of Now cost $50,000. IFHY was $37. going ultra-guerilla this time. my Zoom H2 just arrived. playing with now too. i'll do a D90/Zoom H2 synced clip later.

me walking around apartment with cam turned on myself instead of POV like before. low datarate on this one still.

http://blip.tv/file/get/Sabipictures-NIKOND90WANDERLUSTTEST02894.AVI

u can see the noise on the back walls as u walk around.... is it because the this shutrer/ iso priority that the camera controls? or because of the low datarate?
 
little noisy in some parts...i'm not sure if i skipped it, are there still problems trying to change the iso?

I just don't think you can change the ISO at all, to be honest. It's gotta be auto for capturin' Video. Actually adjusting it does nothing to the image.

I even tried to turn it on Auto and limit it to 400. Nothin' doin'.
 
just talked to nikon guy....he said...that if you go to still mode and set the iso and then go to live mode you "should" be able to tell the difference from 200-1600. but there isn't any control once you're in live mode.

also spoke to him about where we can provide feedback, he didn't have a real good answer there except i can pass it along kind of jibberish.
are you guys doing a lot of your adjustments in live mode or still? then going to live afterward?
 
I just don't think you can change the ISO at all, to be honest. It's gotta be auto for capturin' Video. Actually adjusting it does nothing to the image.

I even tried to turn it on Auto and limit it to 400. Nothin' doin'.

That's the thing that's weird. You can dial in the aperture and change the shutter speed with the easy exposure adjust, but the problem is, the gain stays the same, which makes sense since it is called "Exposure adjustment."
 
just talked to nikon guy....he said...that if you go to still mode and set the iso and then go to live mode you "should" be able to tell the difference from 200-1600. but there isn't any control once your in live mode.

Newp. No worky for me.
 
I just don't think you can change the ISO at all, to be honest. It's gotta be auto for capturin' Video. Actually adjusting it does nothing to the image.

I even tried to turn it on Auto and limit it to 400. Nothin' doin'.

What about the regular exposure comp? Supposedly it honors that setting. Now, what does it change? Shutter or gain?
 
What about the regular exposure comp? Supposedly it honors that setting. Now, what does it change? Shutter or gain?

It's either Shutter or Shutter and Gain, both. Or ISO, whichever way you want to refer to it.

Bottom line is that it's not manual enough for most of our crowd. =(
 
have you guys tried shooting in 480p? see if the bitrate is different?

im curious to as well what the bit rates for the other modes are. anyone wanna check and see if compression is any better at the smaller resolutions.

while i hope there could be a firmware fix for a better bitrate/mjpeg compression i feel like there is a limit due to the d90s internal hardware so the question is what is that limit and is this camera processing and compressing at that limit or is there room for improvement?

as for the better manual control in movie mode, this should be possible by a firmware upgrade/change. i cant think of any reason that this could not be changed in the firmware.

finally has anyone been able to or will be able to check the hdmi out in movie mode to see whats going on there?
 
It's either Shutter or Shutter and Gain, both. Or ISO, whichever way you want to refer to it.

Bottom line is that it's not manual enough for most of our crowd. =(

Ok, back to the easy exposure adjustment then...so normally it runs, what, 1/125th? So if you wanted something faster, you could just put a 1, 2 or whatever stop ND filter on it, and fake the gain into increasing, then set the easy comp at -1, -2, or whatever to get your desired faster shutter speed and the gain would then be correct. And you could lock it and shoot. But to get slower than 1/125th, I'm not sure what you could do. Of course, ISO200 is hardly low enough sensitivity to run slow shutter speeds in daylight anyway.
 
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