The end of 35mm adapers and hv20s....

Timecodes

Timecodes

Asking Nikon whether timecodes could be added to AVI metadata or generated with the GP-1 GPS addon (camera clocks drift 15s per day, but the GPS addon already embeds the precise time in images) got this response:

Timecode is not generated with the D90 video but we'll pass your request along to our design group for consideration in a future product or update. Regarding the GPS, we don't have any information on if it can be used as you suggest at this time.

We don't know yet if the GPS can set the camera clock, but it can on our Coolpix P6000 so it may also on the D90. As is mentioned in the camera's manual, its clock is not as accurate as even a standard wristwatch and substantial drift is normal. Thanks

-David

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This would be a trivial firmware update, so if you want timecodes please contact Nikon via http://support.nikontech.com/ and request this feature.

If anyone who has this camera can try GPS-syncing the clock, please post your results. Should be easy to work without a clapperboard so long as you sync clocks pre-shoot. Zoom H2/H4 have substantial drift as shipped, so you'll want to upgrade firmware to post-2.0. Recommended for low/no drift: Fostex FR-2LE, Marantz.
 
shaocaholica said:
Actually, you'll want to stick with ISO-200 which is the "base" ISO. With a lower ISO, you may or may not get any "cleaner" images but you will lose dynamic range. Thats why they call it the base ISO, because its the optimal for both noise and DR. Again, you may get cleaner images lower than the base ISO but the difference may not be noticeable with the naked eye but you will for sure have less DR which is probably more visible.
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I agree, that makes sense. However 3200iso and 6400iso will be interesting to see!
 
Don't wanna do that, I don't think. Might ruin the battery which is no fun at all. I feel And's pain, though. Dang thing is takin' forever to charge.
 
Kholi said:
List of questions people want answered? I don't have anything crazy to shoot. It'll be run-of-the-mill backyard for now.
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Lock the exposure and then see if any of the following cause any exposure changes

pan from bright to dark
pan from something that would cause the focus to change
pan from tungsten to daylight
touch the lens changing focus and zoom
 
Kholi said:
Don't wanna do that, I don't think. Might ruin the battery which is no fun at all. I feel And's pain, though. Dang thing is takin' forever to charge.
Click to expand...

Yeah yeah, I know. I've read instructions which tell you to charge batteries for up 24 hours the first time, but I can't wait that long!!!!! :)
 
Kholi, your close to winning:

"The first bestest fastest person to shoot without exposure jumps award in the world with the D90 EVARRRRR!" Award

 
Tell me about it. I keep looking at the battery charger to see if it's green. Not gonna have any daylight at this rate. =(
 
My requests:

Obviously the exposure lock. I have to see it to believe it... and I'm still skeptic.
please try video mode with a manual lens!!
Upload full rez footage, or at least screen grabs. Even just a couple of seconds of full rez would be great. Upload smaller footage for the exposure shots.

More to come, but that's what I really need to know.

gracias mi amigo
 
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