XDCAM EX1 on the road blog

In the LCD and on a 42" HD-LCD.

I dunno how anyone could've missed it, but then again I also saw the edge softness on the Brevis and others didn't.

I wish I could get video up now, but I'll get it up tomorrow. The light thing is described as:

Very white but faint lines moving from bottom to top in the footage against a plain white wall. This was done under fluorescent lights at 1/48, 1/60, 1/120th.

With the RED ONE (CMOS as well) you can see it also under Magnetic HMIs or standard Fluorescent lights but it's nowhere NEAR as prevalent as it is on the EX-1 it seems AND it can be fixed at 1/40 shutter or 1/60
 
Barry has talked about flicker under older flourescents as a rolling shutter issue but you should be able to get rid of it by playing with your shutter speed.

I thought i wrote down his suggested shutter speeds but can't seem to find them right now.

Hopefully you tried the wrong ones. This is a limitation but my understanding is when you get the right shutter speed it should be fixed. Hope so.

- lenny
 
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Lenilenapi said:
Barry has talked about flicker under older flourescents as a rolling shutter issue but you should be able to get rid of it by playing with your shutter speed.

I thought i wrote down his suggested shutter speeds but can't seem to find them right now.

Hopefully you tried the wrong ones. This is a limitation but my understanding is when you get the right shutter speed it should be fixed. Hope so.

- lenny
Click to expand...

The fixed shutters (Barry actually told us this when we were all on set last week) are 1/40 and 1/60th.

If someone else can try it that'd be sweet, but I'm gonna do it again tomorrow and post both footages. It's there, and it's VERY prevalent even on the EX-1 LCD. 1/40 and 1/60 didn't do anything to help it.

The RED ONE implementation of CMOS is a much more advanced one than EX-1 so I suspect that's why we don't see it at those shutters. Perhaps there's also something else you need to do on the EX-1 to bypass this.
 
Another thing to consider is the signal flow within the camera. I don't know much about the EX-1, but I know on the DVX, many things happen after the signal hits the screen and before it is recorded.
 
and frame-rate obviously. and "reduce flicker", and a last one that I don't remember what's called because I don't have an ex1 available atm
 
Nifty! What a lucky guy!

I've got my own little wish list going on the front of my web site too. Sometimes if you just beg, people with $$$ and soft hearts will open their wallets. :)
 
:violin: Hey guys here's a tip, I always cut and cover my camera with non-reflective black gaffers tape when I get it. It prevents the acids from your hands in attacking the paint and makes for a "super grip" on the camera when you are using it. It also covers any identification and makes it less noticable to others. When you sell the camera, you can remove it with special solvent and the camera looks just like new. Just remember, the camera is only a tool and should not be noticable to the viewer - Carl
 
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Carl

Interesting solution. I've used black tape on stills cameras before, but usually that would be black plastic electrical tape, which works very well but isn't non-reflective.

So it's industry standard matte black camera tape that you'd be using?

And exactly what brand of solvent will remove its residues without harming the delicate paintwork it would have been covering?

Thanks!
Cheers
Chris
 
:violin: Hey, Emo-- I use the standard 2 1/2" gaffer's tape. It comes in flat black; unfortunately, the newer rolls have a more reflective surface than in the past, but I think they are as effective. Use a scissors to cut the patches for each surface and place them on the camera! Even if you sweat, your grip is like glue. There is a special solvent, made from petroleum based distillates, that is intended to remove the base glue of the tape from the camera without any damage to the paint; costs about $10.00. You will have to look around for it if you want to remove it when you sell the camera. You will never get a scratch on your camera in production if you do this, and it looks like a serious tool to anyone at a shoot.
 
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I wanted to write a quick note wishing everyone the best of luck with the EX1 and EX3, in fact with everything.

I am taking a break from here for a while. If you even need advice or questions do not hesitate to email me at philip@philipbloom.co.uk
 
Breaks are good ...

Breaks are good ...

philip bloom said:
I wanted to write a quick note wishing everyone the best of luck with the EX1 and EX3, in fact with everything.

I am taking a break from here for a while. If you even need advice or questions do not hesitate to email me at philip@philipbloom.co.uk
Click to expand...

By all means take a break! I'll be doing just that in 2 weeks.
 
Powerful piece, Philip. Great work by all involved. Audio question: How much of this was boomed audio and how much wireless?
 
Just put two new shorts up on my website/blog at philipbloom.co.uk I hope you enjoy them.

One called Return to Siberia, the other Grand Canyon.
 
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