PLYWOOD SKATER Finished
- Thread starter Ted Ramasola
- Start date
Avenger007
Well-known member
how does the wheel lock work? Any more detailed pics and some layouts avail?
Thanks for all the hard work and willingness to share the great designs.
Badlaa was yours made of a different material or is that wood? How did you finish it to look like that?
Thanks for all the hard work and willingness to share the great designs.
Badlaa was yours made of a different material or is that wood? How did you finish it to look like that?
MaxZenk
Active member
few minutes ago I came across another version of the skater... also by a German company (these guys do the electronics for the Panther dolly systems). it's worth checing it out for inspiration...
http://www.movietech.de/German/rocker_dt.htm
Max
http://www.movietech.de/German/rocker_dt.htm
Max
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
avenger007
sorry for the delay, the wheel lock is simply a bolt with its head under the whole basemount going through to the top, rubber padded "washer" is inserted and that presses against the top rim of the wheel mount. The knob (in v2) or winged nut in (v1) presses the washer down when you tighten it.
Ted
sorry for the delay, the wheel lock is simply a bolt with its head under the whole basemount going through to the top, rubber padded "washer" is inserted and that presses against the top rim of the wheel mount. The knob (in v2) or winged nut in (v1) presses the washer down when you tighten it.
Ted
chrischaput
New member
Sorry for the double-post, but it looks like this may be the better thread for it...
If any DIY type guy is looking for special wheels and/or bearings used on a dolly, skater, or pulley system, I may be able to help. I design and market dozens of skateboard wheels in different sizes, shapes, and hardnesses (durometers). Sizes range from 52mm all the way up to 130mm. Hardnesses range from 75a (super soft and smooth) up to 99a (very hard). The position of the bearing seats vary - sideset, offset, and centerset. I also designed an idiot-proof 608 style bearing that integrates a half-spacer and washer onto the inner ring, so you can just pop a bearing into each side of the wheel and tighten up the locknut without binding the bearings. You can use a 5/16" bolt for an axle.
Because I am a Downhill, Slalom, and Streetluge racer, I use the finest urethanes on the planet. Made in the USA (Huntington Beach, CA). Everyone in the pictures is on my wheels. I'm the guy in the prison striped outfit on the 6 wheeler.
If any DIY type guy is looking for special wheels and/or bearings used on a dolly, skater, or pulley system, I may be able to help. I design and market dozens of skateboard wheels in different sizes, shapes, and hardnesses (durometers). Sizes range from 52mm all the way up to 130mm. Hardnesses range from 75a (super soft and smooth) up to 99a (very hard). The position of the bearing seats vary - sideset, offset, and centerset. I also designed an idiot-proof 608 style bearing that integrates a half-spacer and washer onto the inner ring, so you can just pop a bearing into each side of the wheel and tighten up the locknut without binding the bearings. You can use a 5/16" bolt for an axle.
Because I am a Downhill, Slalom, and Streetluge racer, I use the finest urethanes on the planet. Made in the USA (Huntington Beach, CA). Everyone in the pictures is on my wheels. I'm the guy in the prison striped outfit on the 6 wheeler.
Avenger007
Well-known member
Any online catalogs or website we can check out for product info/ordering?
chrischaput
New member
If you like paying full retail, go to Sk8Trip.com or for the nice DIY "brod deal" email me at Chris@ChrisChaput.com
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
cinebuddy,
sorry for the delay, got busy makin a 35mm adapter. Im posting a pic that might help you and others on the brakes and locks.
Ted
sorry for the delay, got busy makin a 35mm adapter. Im posting a pic that might help you and others on the brakes and locks.
Ted
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
Tested mounting my new DIY mini35 and DIY Stainless Steel support rods if it can handle the weight. The plywood base held up fine.
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
Cinebuddy,
The photo that showed the parts shows that part you mean. The one on the left is the brake for the whole rig, to keep it from running while your adjusting the wheel angles.
Its the bolt with rubber sandwiched between its head and a nut.
Its threaded through another nut welded to a small metal plate. This plate is screwed to the plywood base.
The other end, i attached the knob (not shown in photo) that you hold and turn till you have the rubber engage the table surface to apply this brake.
Ted
Hunter Hampton
Carbonite Member
I made a wooden skater! here is some footage from recent projects: http://dwavep.com/tabletop.html
It turned out to be really solid after I added a 1/4" sheet of aluminum and a heavy duty ballhead. I just added wheel breaks about 2 weeks ago.
It sure beats renting the p+s version for $175 a day!
It turned out to be really solid after I added a 1/4" sheet of aluminum and a heavy duty ballhead. I just added wheel breaks about 2 weeks ago.
It sure beats renting the p+s version for $175 a day!
I just finished mine as well. It's a great tool for sure but don't do like me and try skimping on the wood. I used MDF wood etc. and that was a really bad choice.
Now I just got to figure out how to attach my camera to the skater.
I was thinking of making a solid bean bag until I come up with a good solution. Anyone tried that?
Thanks everyone for sharing about how to build it. Awesome!
Now I just got to figure out how to attach my camera to the skater.
I was thinking of making a solid bean bag until I come up with a good solution. Anyone tried that?
Thanks everyone for sharing about how to build it. Awesome!
Hunter Hampton
Carbonite Member
I would eventually like to make an aluminum or uhmw version, plywood is kinda...ummm. too Woody?
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
A Rotation Chart For Use Withot Laser Pointer
A Rotation Chart For Use Withot Laser Pointer
Sorry it took me a while to post this. Got kind of busy making a lens adapter.
The attached images show a rotation guide I made for those who used the design I posted and indicated on their rig the Reference mark from that design and do not have a laser pointing device.
To use. just use a tape measure and measure the distance from the ref mark to the center of rotation. If the center of rotation is in front, use the blue chart, if at the back, use the pink values on the chart.
The disadvantage is that you can only have a rotation point that is directly In front or directly at the back of the ref mark. That is, a perpendicular line from the front edge of the skater.
You may find that you can achieve smooth and repeatable move using this figures rather than gueswork or even with lasers.
I suggest you print the chart, fold it in the center and laminate it to protect it from tearing. One side will be blue , the other, pink.
Ted
A Rotation Chart For Use Withot Laser Pointer
Sorry it took me a while to post this. Got kind of busy making a lens adapter.
The attached images show a rotation guide I made for those who used the design I posted and indicated on their rig the Reference mark from that design and do not have a laser pointing device.
To use. just use a tape measure and measure the distance from the ref mark to the center of rotation. If the center of rotation is in front, use the blue chart, if at the back, use the pink values on the chart.
The disadvantage is that you can only have a rotation point that is directly In front or directly at the back of the ref mark. That is, a perpendicular line from the front edge of the skater.
You may find that you can achieve smooth and repeatable move using this figures rather than gueswork or even with lasers.
I suggest you print the chart, fold it in the center and laminate it to protect it from tearing. One side will be blue , the other, pink.
Ted
wheel mount options
wheel mount options
Hey there, I am new to this thread (and dvxuser actually.... great find, its a great resource!) and have only read through about half of it so far, so I hope this question isn't redundant. I am wondering about the two main designs that seem to be presented on this forum. One, the plywood skater by teddybear, uses the following:
(this is like a cross-section of the outer edge of one of the wheel wells...)
while the aluminum version (the radiatus by RWM) uses the following setup:
I am wondering if anyone who has made these has any input on the pro's and con's of these two ideas. I am planning on making an aluminum skater, but use the top diagram (teddybear's design) as my plan, mostly because it seems simpler.
I am going to make it out of 1/4 inch aluminum, and am cutting out all the parts with a water cutter. I am just getting the CAD files into the right format right now, and possibly am changing the design up a bit...
Any thoughts on the wheel positions? I am thinking that perhaps making the back wheel more centered (making it more like an equilateral triangle) might offer more stability... but the wheel then might get in the way of the back of the camera... thoughts?
I'm not to worried about the wheel positions not being the same as the real skater, as I can make new formulas and calculators in excel to compensate, and I plan on using a laser most of the time.
I'll be posting build pics here next week. If all goes well, I should be able to duplicate my build pretty easy.
Sorry this was so long!
Cheers!
Eric
wheel mount options
Hey there, I am new to this thread (and dvxuser actually.... great find, its a great resource!) and have only read through about half of it so far, so I hope this question isn't redundant. I am wondering about the two main designs that seem to be presented on this forum. One, the plywood skater by teddybear, uses the following:
(this is like a cross-section of the outer edge of one of the wheel wells...)
while the aluminum version (the radiatus by RWM) uses the following setup:
I am wondering if anyone who has made these has any input on the pro's and con's of these two ideas. I am planning on making an aluminum skater, but use the top diagram (teddybear's design) as my plan, mostly because it seems simpler.
I am going to make it out of 1/4 inch aluminum, and am cutting out all the parts with a water cutter. I am just getting the CAD files into the right format right now, and possibly am changing the design up a bit...
Any thoughts on the wheel positions? I am thinking that perhaps making the back wheel more centered (making it more like an equilateral triangle) might offer more stability... but the wheel then might get in the way of the back of the camera... thoughts?
I'm not to worried about the wheel positions not being the same as the real skater, as I can make new formulas and calculators in excel to compensate, and I plan on using a laser most of the time.
I'll be posting build pics here next week. If all goes well, I should be able to duplicate my build pretty easy.
Sorry this was so long!
Cheers!
Eric
Last edited:
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
Eric,
Awhile back, I mentioned I made a version two. Today I currently use the first version due to its higher profile. The 2nd version is probably ideal if you go the aluminum route since its more rigid. In my case, a low profile sometimes make my bolt holding the cam head scrape the "ground" surface. The higher profile of the first version I made is more tolerant to bending especially that I mount a fully loaded hd200 cam on it, - rails, lens adapter, AB battery, 35 mm lens..etc.
In my design the bolt holding down the top of the wheel mount holder (refer to your first sketch) goes straight through the base and locked with a nut. This assures a tight and strong lock. I have however trimmed my nuts using a motorized grinder to slim it down.
Ted
Awhile back, I mentioned I made a version two. Today I currently use the first version due to its higher profile. The 2nd version is probably ideal if you go the aluminum route since its more rigid. In my case, a low profile sometimes make my bolt holding the cam head scrape the "ground" surface. The higher profile of the first version I made is more tolerant to bending especially that I mount a fully loaded hd200 cam on it, - rails, lens adapter, AB battery, 35 mm lens..etc.
In my design the bolt holding down the top of the wheel mount holder (refer to your first sketch) goes straight through the base and locked with a nut. This assures a tight and strong lock. I have however trimmed my nuts using a motorized grinder to slim it down.
Ted
do you mean that the design of number 2 is more rigid, or just that because I am using aluminum, which is more rigid, I could use the second design and get a lower deck?
if I go route 2, I will have to lathe out those grooves, whereas with design 1, I can just use the water cutter to cut all the pieces out...
if I go route 2, I will have to lathe out those grooves, whereas with design 1, I can just use the water cutter to cut all the pieces out...
Ted Ramasola
Veteran
Yes, because your using aluminum, then Version 2 of my design might be viable. I did not however make a vector file of it. Just photos i posted here.
I am not familiar with "route 2" which is the alum version by RWM, my design however does not require lathing out grooves but simply cutting through which might be easier for you.
Ted
I am not familiar with "route 2" which is the alum version by RWM, my design however does not require lathing out grooves but simply cutting through which might be easier for you.
Ted