China Ball Question

Terminal covering is making sure that the electrical connections aren't exposed so its not so easy to get shocked. The socket you chose there seems to have its connections covered so its already ready to go. That looks like a good list to me. So you want six chinese lanterns since you're getting six bulbs?
 
I was going for one, perhaps two.

I guess I don't really know how long those bulbs last, so I thought I'd go for the six-pack.

Did I need a stand then, or was that part of Lantern Lock solution?
 
I think you still need a stand and perhaps even a boom arm to operate the lanternlock device which is only a skeleton for the china ball.
 
Is it more of user opinion to use CFL's vs other types of bulbs? I heard dimmers aren't good with CFL's. I wanted to use a bulb like this for a china ball.

http://www.barbizon.com/catalog/detail.cfm?Prod_ID=9645&series=4&brand=24.

Also, where would decently prices Boom kits be located? Last question. In Ian's photograph what's the piece called on the boom at the end holding the China ball on? It's circle and has holes all around so you can put the pole through.
 
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I wouldn't use a 1000w bulb in any china ball unless its specifically made with a heat proof fabric. Most aren't rated (especially paper ones) for beyond about 200w. I believe my nylon one said it would handle 300w. I believe you're talking about a grip head in your last question which is what Ian used to mount the china ball.

Definitely don't use a dimmer with a self-ballasted CFL as you'll damage it. There are some that can be dimmed but there are so few in the world with that capability that 99% of them don't and the ones that do are usually limited in color temperature and CRI options so I wouldn't even attempt line voltage dimming with a CFL. The main reason to use CFLs or any kind of fluorescent is the "big soft source" which can replace a tungsten soft source and not heat the room up thus is more efficient in operation than tungsten by at least 4 times usually. Whereas tungsten may be X lumens, fluorescent is X*4 lumens for the same draw of power.
 
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Lanternlocks are designed to be mounted in any clamp that will accept a 5/8" (baby female) stud, like a Gobo head, or a Mafer. The Accessory arm will mount the Lanternlock to any baby male stud, like on a light stand, pigeon, or the other end of a C stand arm. I have used 1K and 500W bulbs in the proper-sized paper lanterns, 24" and 18" respectively. Naturally, care must be taken- airflow through the lantern should be considered as well as possibly shutting off the unit when not in use.
 
sbryan,

Not totally sure what's at the end of that boom but it looks like it might. If you're using the lanternlock you'd need the 5/8" male stud at the end of the boom as per the previous message. You might contact this guy and verify if the end device on there (not so clear in the picture) is a 5/8" stud:

http://cgi.ebay.com/PROFESSIONAL-BO...ryZ88666QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/PROFESSIONAL-BO...ryZ88666QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/PROFESSIONAL-BO...ryZ88666QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I don't know why it's so hard for these people to describe their light stand and how you mount something to it! Why leave a customer to guess if you've got mounting on the end of the boom? Silly...

lanternlock,

Not prudent to be recommending going beyond ratings on a public board. While many of us may exceed ratings from time to time, it's something to be left to personal responsibility and deciding that on your own. What should we do if they forget to turn the unit off or don't have proper airflow? Some people on this board are fairly new to lighting and might not be entirely conscious of what's going on at every moment.
 
hi car30

the gear i use to hold the lanterns is the knuckle of a c stand
avenger part no d200

you can buy them for about $40 australian and come in various styles

they are probably the the most useful thing in my kit

to get the boom just go to a hardware store or steel supplier

and buy some steel 5/8 rod it is a couple of dollers a metre and you

can hacksaw it to whatever length you want

i get steel as it can take the weight of lanterns dedos and redheads

or richards cool lights

ian
 
Cool Lights said:
sbryan,

Not totally sure what's at the end of that boom but it looks like it might. If you're using the lanternlock you'd need the 5/8" male stud at the end of the boom as per the previous message. You might contact this guy and verify if the end device on there (not so clear in the picture) is a 5/8" stud:

http://cgi.ebay.com/PROFESSIONAL-BO...ryZ88666QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/PROFESSIONAL-BO...ryZ88666QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/PROFESSIONAL-BO...ryZ88666QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I don't know why it's so hard for these people to describe their light stand and how you mount something to it! Why leave a customer to guess if you've got mounting on the end of the boom? Silly...

lanternlock,

Not prudent to be recommending going beyond ratings on a public board. While many of us may exceed ratings from time to time, it's something to be left to personal responsibility and deciding that on your own. What should we do if they forget to turn the unit off or don't have proper airflow? Some people on this board are fairly new to lighting and might not be entirely conscious of what's going on at every moment.
Click to expand...

I'll contact him.

Thanks!
 
ian dart said:
hi car30

the gear i use to hold the lanterns is the knuckle of a c stand
avenger part no d200

you can buy them for about $40 australian and come in various styles

they are probably the the most useful thing in my kit

to get the boom just go to a hardware store or steel supplier

and buy some steel 5/8 rod it is a couple of dollers a metre and you

can hacksaw it to whatever length you want

i get steel as it can take the weight of lanterns dedos and redheads

or richards cool lights

ian
Click to expand...

sbryan,

given what ian just said, you could use this too:

http://www.adorama.com/AED200.html

which is the avenger grip head with "T" top or "knuckle" as he called it (hadn't heard that grip slang before) and a 5/8" pipe or rod cut to length to accomplish the same thing for quite a bit less perhaps.

ian,

Didn't think about using a 5/8" rod or pipe for diy solution before. One thing that comes to mind about it is do you ever miss the "lathing" 1/2" inset at the end like a 5/8" spud? It's just a safety factor that I wonder if it might be missing for really clamping things on so they can't come loose.
 
knuckles

knuckles

thats the little devil you can use them on light stand c stands magic arms and
just about anywhere
hey saw your previous link on the grip head
wow 22 dollars each at that price i would fill my truck with them

good point about the flange on 5/8 rod i usually just file a flat
spot on one side of the end and line that up with the tightening screw
never had one slip yet

they really are well worth having in your kit the more u use them the more you
need

ian
 
just to clarify i only use rod not tube which is hollow
with solid rod there is no chance of the rod bending or giving away
and in the rare case it doe it will will tend to sag slowly with hollow tube
it can bend or snap suddenly (learnt that the hard way)
ian
 
good points. rod instead of pipe. plus easier to file the security inset into the rod. I suppose aluminum rod at 5/8" would be too weak to use so you've got to use steel rod and put up with the extra weight. By the way, it should be super easy to take that rod to a machine shop and have them lathe out the little inset. Probably wouldn't cost too much and would look super nice afterwards too. Just have them lathe out about 3/16" of an inch depth of material about 1/2 down from the end of the rod and for 1/2" in length and you basically have the same thing as a baby spud.
 
rod

rod

aluminium rod or tube would be ok for china lanterns or dedos as they are faily light (depending on distance they are boomed)
but if you are hanging anything bigger i would recomend steel
it is always the case that we are trying to get the light as close to the centre
of the action and the stand as far from the action as possible
with the result that the boom is always the longest we can get
with steel i never have that quiet little voice in the back of my
head muttering *i hope that rig holds and dosent fall on someone*


steel is a lot heavier and a pain to carry around but worth the cost
in security
any light i hang fron a vertical rod where ther is a chance it will slip off
i safety strap to the stand or something solid

our skill is measured by how little damage we do
ian
 
I just ordered an 18inch nylon china ball and I'm working on an easy to do DIY lanternlock type of device. I'll post it up on DIY section with parts and how to. I don't believe there'll be any welding or drilling. I'll have to wait and see once I get the ball in. So far cost was under 20bux to build it, without ball.

-rh
 
Lantern Lock is not accepting orders at this time.

I have a stand, which I believe has a 5/8" stud, plus the 24" Nylon China Ball, Socket, and Lamps.

How do I hold the ball in place on the stand now?

Thanks!
 
hi sbryan

you will need a pole to hang the lantern and extend it away fom the stand

i have explained how i do it in previous posts

you need to attach the lantern to the pole and then the pole
to the stand as i understand you
there are various ways to do this........ the cheap way and the proper
way....... there is never a cheap way to join bits of metal at 90 degrees
i would suggest an avenger c stand knuckle..... (obout 20dollars) which
clamps to the stand and will hold a pole which you can hang the lantern
as the lantern is light ( in weight) you can just hang it by its wire frame and use
some wire to attach it to the pole (broom handle) THATS THE CHEAP WAY

regards ian d
 
Hey, like I said about my DIY lantern lock, I'd have one for everyone to make, and it's cheap and easy and sufficient. Well, nothing against the guys who originally came up with the idea, but WoW, I've built my own for less than 10bux(not including china ball). I'll post picture by this week hopefully. I don't have access to internet. The parts consist of 3things. Anyway, I'll get some pics up for you guys and hope it'll work for you as well.

all the best
-rh
 
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