Is the V1 a has been already?

Basspig you are right I should have had the Skin dtl on. I have a question does anyone know what is meant by skin type 1,2 or3. Are we talking about color of skin? If so it would be nice to define what is what. Thanks for the tip on the portrait mode.

Ncje the title is intended to get people to look at this tread. In the first post I make the statement “I want to know how people are using this amazing camera. Let’s talk about how you are using the V1.” That is what we are doing. No need for a new tread.

Sunday I shot a TV commercial for a new energy drink. As soon as I can release footage I will.

The director monitored the camera with a Sony Bravia and looked at all my settings on the hd monitor. After we had gone thru all the settings she decided she liked the Cinema profile for this project.

It was shot in a world class gym with a former WWF wrestler. This guy was lifting 100LB in each hand reps of five and we had him do it for five sets.

Anyway the footage looks great. There is no way I could have gotten the shots with out the Sony monitor. On my screen they all looked like crap. I would say stop I have to look at something run around and look at the monitor and see it looked great then go back to my camera and see it looked like crap then shoot the scene.

I did this a couple of times then decided I could trust the director and just went with what she said.
 
From the V1U manual, page 39, regarding skin detail settings:

Type 1, the color range recognized as skin is narrow. Type 3 is a wide range.
The levels adjust the amount of smoothing of skin color pixels. Sony refers to this as "outline suppression."


I tend to agree with ncje about splitting this off into a more positive thread. If the mods do split it, would they put a link to the new thread in this one so we can easily find it?


Off-topic a bit, but I'm nearly sick with a discovery I made about my Canon HV20 yesterday. I finally figured out how to get sharp pictures out of it (it involved turning off Cinema mode) and I shot some footage that puts the best of my V1U footage to shame. Almost no HDV artifacts, no banding, no macroblocks in the grass and sky and no chromatic aberration on trees against sky. Only shortcoming is a lack of exposure lattitude--the picture has too much contrast. But it's a pleasure to watch an HD video that is visibly free of artifacts!

If you own and HVR-V1U (I own two) and want to get soured on your purchase, look at the Park Shots near the bottom of this page:

http://www.basspig.com/hvrv1u_HDV_artifacts.htm

Open them in PhotoShop and push the quartertones up and see if you can find artifacts. This footage blew me away. For a $1000 camcorder. My V1Us only LOOK impressive. They just can't deliver the impressive pictures that the little Canon did yesterday in the park. Reminds me of those StarKist tuna commercials in the 1960s (we don't want tunas with good taste; we want tunas that taste good). :)

 
Ronbo,

What can you tell me about the HVR-V1U??? I am using it for shorts and school news broadcasts. Do you use final cut???

Dave
 
Dave I like my V1 a lot. It works good right out of the box in auto mode. You can get some great looks with the profiles and they are tweakable. I have had mine for about three months and I am starting to get the hang of it. I shot a commercial for DXL Magazine last week and I love the look we were able to create.

For weddings and events that are pretty much run and gun the lcd is nice, but for commercials and anything else I would suggest using an external monitor. I would never have gotten the shots I did for DXL had I not had a monitor hooked up via HDMI.

HDV is different than dv and takes some getting use to. I am waiting for a portable capture device that captures strait from the HDMI connection. For commercials and blue screen that would be great.

I use Premiere Pro so I can’t help you with Final cut but there are plenty of people here that do use it so ask away someone will help you.
 
Sure, go into camera settings and select progressive scan then select 24 or 24A. If you just want the look then 24 will work if you want to remove or pull down to true 24P use 24A. That is the cool thing about the V1 it shoots in progressive scan and puts it in a interlaced signal. I shoot in 30P most of the time if I were going to shoot a movie I would use 24A.
 
The V1's 24A doesn't work like that though. There's confusion between 24pA (as employed on the Panasonic and Canon lineup, where Canon calls it 2:3:3:2) and Sony's 24A -- they're not the same.

In the Panasonic/Canon implementation, 24pA = four full frames, followed by one (discardable) split frame. That makes it supremely suited for editing applications.

In the Sony implementation, 24 & 24A both use the same 2:3 pulldown system. The difference is not in the pulldown, it's only a timecode issue; one of them is designed to make sure there's no timecode break so it rounds out a group of frames whenever you stop recording, whereas the other one stops recording whenever you tell it to stop -- but that would mean a timecode break. As far as the footage goes, the footage is identical between 24 and 24A.
 
Barry, so for editing with premiere pro which would you chose to get a true 24p time line? 24 or 24a?
 
Does Premiere Pro have the ability to reverse out 2:3 pulldown? I think Vegas can do it if the flags are present.

But are the pulldown flags present? I don't know.

If V1U 24P footage has the pulldown flags present, and Premiere Pro recognizes the flags and reverses out pulldown (and accounts for interlaced 4:2:0 chroma) then you're probably good to go; the choice of 24P or 24A has nothing to do with which mode you'd choose for editing; it's strictly (as I understand it) a timecode-break-avoidance thing.

But if any of the above conditions aren't met, then you'd have to go through the same type of hoops that HV20 users are jumping through. Using MPEG Streamclip, or capturing through CineForm, etc.
 
Thanks Barry. I have not shot anything in 24p yet but I can see I need to so I can test Ppro. I will report back as soon as I can.
 
Well... reseting the GOP every time you start recording (with 24A) is what makes it easy to pull it down. Personally, I never really understood the logic of shooting 24 but cutting in 60i. Why use the extra hard drive space? And how does one decide where to cut when some of your frames are weird frozen (or interlaced looking) frames? And making true 24p DVDs or HD DVDs is beautiful... 24 in 60i is a waste of your bit rate.

And you can always kick your cut 24p up to 60i for a tape master or whatever. But have you tried getting 24 back when someone finished at 60i? Better hope they used no graphics or speed changes or cross dissolves that don't perfectly match each other in the 3:2 cadence... or it will look like poop.

Just my 2 cents.
 
have you ever used the v1u with final cut pro??? I am having a difficult time trying to capture footage. Thanks!
 
sorry, i don't use premiere. but here is my FCP workflow for shooting and finishing 24p on FCP:

Shoot 24p scan A mode. capture AIC 1080i60.

Now open the cap scratch folder and right click on the first clip. choose open with cinema tools. DO NOT MOVE THE PLAYHEAD OR PLAY THE CLIP. choose reverse telecine.

leave cap mode as F1 - F2 and leave file on New (smaller). Be sure conform to says 23.98 and standard upper/lower is checked.

Where it says fields, you'll see that AA is checked. SELECT THE FOURTH OPTION:

_CD_

and click OK.

You'll have to do this for each clip. I don't know of a way to batch it. (I haven't tried the new cinema tools yet...)
 
I forgot to mention, when you go to cut in FCP, you'll need to create a 1080i60 AIC sequence, then change its frame rate to 23.98.

Be sure and do this before you start dropping clips into the sequence.
 
I've read through these 8 pages of posts. Concensus is that the A1 is the better camera, but what about the DVX100b? My church just bought the V1, and for the most part, the footage looks great.

I'm looking to get the 100b, no need for HD here, but have never shot with one before - only taking input from this site (biased?) Would anyone consider the quality of the 100b shot in 16:9 mode comperable to the 16:9 SD 24p footage of the V1?

Thanks!
 
I just sold a DVX 100 and I regret it. It was the best SD cam I have ever used. If I were in a situation where I would not ever be using HD I would definitely buy another DVX.. As far as comparing the two I have never shot in SD with my V1. After shooting in HD I have no desire to shoot SD.
 
The 16:9 mode of the DVX cannot compared with 16:9 on the A1 or V1U or any of the other recent cameras. The DVX uses 4:3 chip and loses resolution when it stretches the image out to fill a 16:9 frame. The 4:3 on these other cameras in SD would probably lose out of the DVX.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top