Cool-Light's Blue Line body with "HMI" guts
- Thread starter USLatin
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Cool Lights
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Dedolight prices are insane. I have some other ideas for that area too but its too early to talk about it right now and could be a while before we get that designed. The 150w metal halide fresnel would be a good choice for someone that wanted something similar to the dedo idea though.
Cool Lights
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Hey, when you guys say 150's I'm not totally sure if you're meaning tungsten models. Many of you are PMing me asking lots of questions. Why don't we specify when we're talking about one class or another with some abbreviation like MH150's for the metal halide group or just 150's for the tungsten ones so I don't get confused.
Remember we've got two 150's in two different classes of fresnel product and one small par too. The tungsten 150 is in the small (and previously pictured on this thread) pepper fresnel body. The MH150 will most likely be in the 300 body if I can make it happen and if not, for sure in the 650 body. The MH150 bulb will also go in a par too which is really like the 300 fresnel body with a different and wider par lens front on it.
I really think people will love these MH150's especially with the choices of tungsten colored and daylight bulbs.
Isn't this confusing? (but fun though). ;-)
Remember we've got two 150's in two different classes of fresnel product and one small par too. The tungsten 150 is in the small (and previously pictured on this thread) pepper fresnel body. The MH150 will most likely be in the 300 body if I can make it happen and if not, for sure in the 650 body. The MH150 bulb will also go in a par too which is really like the 300 fresnel body with a different and wider par lens front on it.
I really think people will love these MH150's especially with the choices of tungsten colored and daylight bulbs.
Isn't this confusing? (but fun though). ;-)
Cool Lights
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Yes, me too! We're in negotiations on the par line now. I'm also specifying changes I think are necessary to improve them and lower the cost too. I'm confident at this point and can't wait to get my hands on one of those 1200w monsters to try out.
Some of the changes I'm contemplating to both lines are 1). adding handles to the back so you won't burn your hands when these things are hot and you want to adjust the angle and 2). Color scheme changes to either anodizing of some color (which would really look cool--gold for instance) or powder coating green fronts/backs for MH line and red or black fronts/backs for the tungsten line. Or how about gold anodizing for the HMI line and the red or black front/back on the tungsten's? Lots of possibilities there.
filmat11
Well-known member
I guess any color other than the Arri blue color...I'll leave that to you.
Handles on the back sounds good to me, as well as stronger, locking tilt knobs and retainer washers, to maintain light position once set. Positive locking top clip for barndoors and easy open for adding scrims.
Handles on the back sounds good to me, as well as stronger, locking tilt knobs and retainer washers, to maintain light position once set. Positive locking top clip for barndoors and easy open for adding scrims.
I love the design of your Cool Lights 575w SportLight Par. This is a very efficient and light weight design. Have you looked at the way joker, ltm, and cinemills make their 1200watt pars in this design? I like them because they are small enought to fit on baby stands instead of junior stands. Have you thought about an 800 watt version in the SportLight Par?
What will be the weight of your new 4 light flo's? I have one of your alumninum ones and the weight is my only concern.
Congratulations and I look forward to buying one your pars.
What will be the weight of your new 4 light flo's? I have one of your alumninum ones and the weight is my only concern.
Congratulations and I look forward to buying one your pars.
HMI kits
HMI kits
Richard, I believe you are on the verge of revolutionizing the lighting industry- you'd be completely trouncing the other HMI manufacturers on price, even beating them when compared to tungstens. If your lights are made well, and get a good response from customers, you'll be well set to become another Lowell or who knows how far you could go.
Sign me up for a Cool/Hard Kit IV ( 3x150W and 1x575W MH's). I'd like them in a to-go box w/ a full set of scrims and barndoors.
-Tom
HMI kits
Richard, I believe you are on the verge of revolutionizing the lighting industry- you'd be completely trouncing the other HMI manufacturers on price, even beating them when compared to tungstens. If your lights are made well, and get a good response from customers, you'll be well set to become another Lowell or who knows how far you could go.
Sign me up for a Cool/Hard Kit IV ( 3x150W and 1x575W MH's). I'd like them in a to-go box w/ a full set of scrims and barndoors.
-Tom
Cool Lights
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Okay, the gold is a bit extreme, but I agree--no more sick blue! Anyway I agree on these other items and they are not hard to solve at all. One thing I'm not totally sure you mean though here: "positive locking top clip for barndoors". Do you mean the clip on the top that locks the barndoors and/or gelframe into place and keeps it from falling out and flips up to let them come out?
Cool Lights
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When I was doing video for hire, I never was much of a "portable" guy. I mostly made people come to me so you could call me a "studio" guy I guess.
What is the case that people like the most? The hard (and heavy!) road type case (which I feel is pretty ugly too) lined with pluck foam slots for each item or a soft sized, padded interior case with padded pockets for the accessories? Or something in between, like a hard plastic, foam lined case?
I would think a soft sided case would be the lightest and easiest to carry with a shoulder strap for instance. On the SportLight though, I am toying with the idea of a harder case because those valuable lenses are something you really want to protect well while travelling--it would be so easy to have a pile of glass and some empty frames when you got where your going.
Cool Lights
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Absolutely have thought about all that. I am already having that factory look at the tooling for a larger version that could be another 1200w par. I think you really need a 10" to 12" lens to do that right so it's just a bit bigger than the 575. I would also favor a bit bigger heat sink fins on the side if I have to sink money into a new tooling design. The fixture is really a big heat sink to keep the bulb from burning itself out. The more you can radiate the heat efficiently to the air the longer the life of the bulb.
I've thought about the 800w but it's already a lot of projects for our small company. I want to get these out there and see what feedback we get then if we need to sink money into some new tooling we'll do it but not before we have the feedback because its SO expensive to create a new mold for a cast aluminum fixture.
I'm shooting for 12lbs or less with bulbs inserted. I'll keep everyone posted as I always do. As you can see I have a pretty open style with what I'm doing and interactively change things based on user opinions. There's only a couple of things I'm working on that I'm keeping my cards close to the chest so to speak because they're pretty good...
The weight of the current models was a tradeoff in getting a lower cost for the fixtures. Aluminum is not cheap now thanks to the World demand for it. Just another reason I favor the use of plastic for the skin of the portable units and an aluminum frame. Just not Coroplast. I have to support these things and I want them to be a bit tougher. You'll see--the other, harder, corrugated PVC material is actually better in a lot of ways.
Cool Lights
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No question about it black is a classic and timeless color that you never get tired of. There are even many logical reasons to have studio lighting instruments be black--not the least of which is reducing possible unwanted reflections from certain parts of the fixtures.
I have a totally black sample 300w fixture just to see how it looked. It's okay, but I really like the "no color" in the middle best. It's really logical too I think, when you consider that the middle of the body will take the brunt of the heat. With no paint on there to flake off or scratch, the fixture should still retain a relatively great look for a longer time I think. The black on the front and back is probably the best and most neutral choice I could make. The paint may perhaps even hinder efficient heat radiation from the middle of the body so we'll probably keep the middle part as "unfinished" as it is today.
Cool Lights
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I'm sure of that. I love it too and realized something like this was sorely needed, especially the reducing heat around the talent part. The tungsten color is what's missing in so many of the current MH / HMI solutions. A kit of a 2x55 flo and a couple of the MH150's would be hard to beat for portability and also heat reduction--and not giving up hard light!
Spartacus
Veteran
an ideal bag for me whould have:
A built in trolley (I already have six big bags with shoulder straps) with bigger rubber wheels than the small inlineskate ones.
Has some sort of cage or frame out of carbon fibre, to give the basic stability.
Has the rest made out of a lightwate but sturdy/unbreakable plastic with cordura or similar material on the outside.
Has of course some sort of cordura wrapped foam padding inside.
Includes a small fitted seperate hardplastic case for spare bulbs.
Includes a fitted tube for gells.
Cool Lights
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I'll try to find out more about it. I've probably seen it before but just am not sure at the moment what it is. I looked it up online but no good pictures. Just needs to be really durable and I prefer, not bendable but of course still light which it sounds like it must be.