Core 2 Duo Build Project: 2007
- Thread starter Kholi
- Start date
ok... so anyway, on the DS3... set the MCH to +0.3 and get one of these on the NorthBridge ... don't worry that it is under VGA coolers... get it and install it with the artic silver... then it is a matter of raising the Vcore and and DDR voltage when your slow and steady creep up crashes the system...
I recomend setting the the multiplier to 2 which is the lowest and it gives you 1:1, that's where you want it in the end so leave it there...
Then the HZs to 5-5-5-15 and go to 1.3V on the RAM, so you are not limited by RAM in the beginning, and focus on raising the FSB and Vcore as high as possible... not you really shouldn't need to raise the Vcore at all... till maybe 450FSB or a bit past it... use Orthos for this... let it run 12min and push again... when you crash and Vcore doesn't help you take a step back and test for about two hours...
Then you start lowering your timings... you test with a floppy drive with Memtest86+... you just make a floppy with it in it and when you boot it gets going... you should be under 1100MHZ so chances are you'll be ale to get to 4-4-3-5 with a 1.3V... but start off testing from 4-4-4-12... I'd run each about 30min and then when you get to 4-4-3-5 it will all depend on how high your FSB got... if you are at 500FSB then you should hit the 4-4-3-5 easy but under those might be where you'll hit the wall... test your RAM overnight... if you can for a whole day... 12hs + is great though
Then you will have to Orthos overnight or for a full day if possible... you want to do a RAM and CPU test
I recomend setting the the multiplier to 2 which is the lowest and it gives you 1:1, that's where you want it in the end so leave it there...
Then the HZs to 5-5-5-15 and go to 1.3V on the RAM, so you are not limited by RAM in the beginning, and focus on raising the FSB and Vcore as high as possible... not you really shouldn't need to raise the Vcore at all... till maybe 450FSB or a bit past it... use Orthos for this... let it run 12min and push again... when you crash and Vcore doesn't help you take a step back and test for about two hours...
Then you start lowering your timings... you test with a floppy drive with Memtest86+... you just make a floppy with it in it and when you boot it gets going... you should be under 1100MHZ so chances are you'll be ale to get to 4-4-3-5 with a 1.3V... but start off testing from 4-4-4-12... I'd run each about 30min and then when you get to 4-4-3-5 it will all depend on how high your FSB got... if you are at 500FSB then you should hit the 4-4-3-5 easy but under those might be where you'll hit the wall... test your RAM overnight... if you can for a whole day... 12hs + is great though
Then you will have to Orthos overnight or for a full day if possible... you want to do a RAM and CPU test
Max R. Wilson
Stream Master
I was able to get osx86 to load on my laptop once when i was testing some stuff at work, but because there was like no drivers for it it was pretty useless.
Shaw said:This wouldn't have anything to do with OS X now would it?
This thread is not for OSx86 install discussion. Those of you who've had a bad time with it: Sorry for ya.
Latin: I think I'll end up with a 4-4-4-12 timing on the DS3 board. But the DS3's NB cooling is adequate for my overclock. it's been done a lot already. And my case + KAMA fan will be fine.
I'll probably attempt a 500FSB, though, and do the 24 hours on test and all that annoying stuff.
Latin: I think I'll end up with a 4-4-4-12 timing on the DS3 board. But the DS3's NB cooling is adequate for my overclock. it's been done a lot already. And my case + KAMA fan will be fine.
I'll probably attempt a 500FSB, though, and do the 24 hours on test and all that annoying stuff.
sorry but I have to correct you, the stock NB heatsink will not be good enough
it isn't an LED fan sort of thing... trust me dude... it will go past 45 right off the bat and continue to accumulate heat till your board will shut down
the one I linked you to is $8 and it works like a charm
it isn't an LED fan sort of thing... trust me dude... it will go past 45 right off the bat and continue to accumulate heat till your board will shut down
the one I linked you to is $8 and it works like a charm
http://www.legionhardware.com/document.php?id=606&p=0
Enjoy. Stock heatsink @ 1000
quote: Unfortunately, going much above the 500MHz FSB did bring the system to its knees, and at 509MHz we could not even get the system to power up. Nevertheless, the 500MHz FSB was completely stable and has passed days of stress testing. Using the 2x memory multiplier, the DDR2-800 memory was now working at 1000MHz, and with the relaxed timings there were no stability issues. The standard Intel heatsink, which remains very cool at 1.86GHz, was beginning to warm up at 3.50GHz, though again stability was never compromised.
So did you try it yourself to make sure that it wasn't enough? Because Legion team does this kinda stuff all day... and seems as though they were plenty fine with the stock heatsink. To such effect that I'm going to pretty much mimic their settings and thinly "tweak" for the E6420 install.
Enjoy. Stock heatsink @ 1000
quote: Unfortunately, going much above the 500MHz FSB did bring the system to its knees, and at 509MHz we could not even get the system to power up. Nevertheless, the 500MHz FSB was completely stable and has passed days of stress testing. Using the 2x memory multiplier, the DDR2-800 memory was now working at 1000MHz, and with the relaxed timings there were no stability issues. The standard Intel heatsink, which remains very cool at 1.86GHz, was beginning to warm up at 3.50GHz, though again stability was never compromised.
So did you try it yourself to make sure that it wasn't enough? Because Legion team does this kinda stuff all day... and seems as though they were plenty fine with the stock heatsink. To such effect that I'm going to pretty much mimic their settings and thinly "tweak" for the E6420 install.
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Jason Ramsey
Admin
USLatinContent said:
I have the same seagate 320's I think Kholi had in his little screen grab of his cart in the first post. They were like 90 a piece at the time. Now, they are 80, or something. I just didn't want anything people talked alot about failure, and definitely not something people talked a lot about heat, especially since I was putting them in an external enclosure togethor, and wasn't sure what to expect.
I haven't tried to do any numbers to see how fast the setup is. All I know is from real world experience. I put 4-6 streams of 720p/24pn, and have transitions, color correction... all your standard stuff, and have never had anything other than realtime performance in EDIUS. Most recently I had a project that was 40 minutes long. It was multicammed with... god, at least several hundred cuts/dissolves, white balance, color correction, etc, etc. Real-time the whole time. Other than that, I could care less about the numbers, I just know it is working for my needs so far :thumbsup: I haven't done much with 1080p to see if I could bottleneck the drives, or anything else, but I'm thinking of trying it out. (By the way, I am not using the pci eSATA card that came with it. I actually have it hooked up to my lappy via expresscard slot, which means I am only getting 2.5GB's of the 3GB's of the HDD's throughput.
I did do about 20 minutes of 1080p live capture to them once, just for the heck of it. Not a hiccup. Smooth.
Kholi: My enclosure runs fine. Runs cool. I'm just putting the palm of my hand on it right now, and I can just barely feel that it is warmer than my hand on the top. On the sides, its actually cooler than my hand. Runs quiet too. Seems to be doing a fine job for me so far
Later guys,
Jason
If you read it, he goes on to state that they've done it more than a few times, and have passed the success onto the users. Has nothing to do with the E6300 IMO, but the board just being that good.
You PROBABLY got an older version of the board. As we're beyond the 1.3 and we're on Rev 3.3 now.
You PROBABLY got an older version of the board. As we're beyond the 1.3 and we're on Rev 3.3 now.
You sure did overclock like three DS3 boards. You had REALLY bad luck on the forums with that setup. LOL. I've never read about someone RMA'ing so many things in my life.
But there are users on 86 forums and in that same forum that haven't had an issue with what Steve did. Bad luck maybe? However a 7.00 fan won't break my wallet so why not?
But there are users on 86 forums and in that same forum that haven't had an issue with what Steve did. Bad luck maybe? However a 7.00 fan won't break my wallet so why not?
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I RMA'ed one board from a problem then the other out of frustration from the poor RAID controller. The first I RMA'ed out of not knowing what was the problem and so as not to wait I RMA'ed both the Video Card (later proven to be the problem) and the board... I was inpatient and didn't want to RMA one only to find out that it was the MoBo...
The second one (no third) OC'ed to 3.2GHz with lower voltages.
It's all there, but I don't blame u if you don't want to read the whole thread (more like a monologue)...
If u don't mind me asking, why did you change the keyboard? Did you find out something I don't know? If so please share. I haven't had the time to program my Vegas macros.
The second one (no third) OC'ed to 3.2GHz with lower voltages.
It's all there, but I don't blame u if you don't want to read the whole thread (more like a monologue)...
If u don't mind me asking, why did you change the keyboard? Did you find out something I don't know? If so please share. I haven't had the time to program my Vegas macros.
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Yeah I read the entire thread. It's a shame because I honestly have seen 3.2ghz OC's without half the stuff that you and I are buying.
The Keyboard; nothing wrong with it! I just decided that I'd rather spend that money elsewhere.
Which reminds me: I think I've just changed up my CPU in favor of the Q6600. I am deciding right now.
But I removed all of my aftermarket cooling and added up a Q6600 with the intent to OC to a healthy 3ghz at max on stock fans and such. What do you think?
I'll actually add a "Choice 2" and "Choice 3" image/selection to the first thread.
Gonna be hard putting down abouter 400.00 for a second monitor, but I really need one as well.
Looks like my new PC is going to be between 2k and 2500. =(
The Keyboard; nothing wrong with it! I just decided that I'd rather spend that money elsewhere.
Which reminds me: I think I've just changed up my CPU in favor of the Q6600. I am deciding right now.
But I removed all of my aftermarket cooling and added up a Q6600 with the intent to OC to a healthy 3ghz at max on stock fans and such. What do you think?
I'll actually add a "Choice 2" and "Choice 3" image/selection to the first thread.
Gonna be hard putting down abouter 400.00 for a second monitor, but I really need one as well.
Looks like my new PC is going to be between 2k and 2500. =(
If you are concerned with high OCs then I could have gotten the 3.2 (+) from a DS3, the right stepping E4300, $80 RAM, and ok PSU, and a $40 HDD, all sitting on my table with no case... and the stock cooler from Intel... But I am glad I got all the stuff I bought.
I think if you only have one monitor you should get that for sure... sell a kidney. I am going to hook up my third as soon as my 7600GT, which caused problems on rig #1 come back straight from EVGA with an apology from their director of marketing...
Again, as I posted on Overclock.net, do NOT consider the Quadro... yet!
By September you will have one for $250 and selling your Duo will get you about $120 off... then if you want to spend more money now, instead spend more money later and get a faster Quadro than their $250 one... anyway, just a though... I didn't think about it too much and didn't run the numbers, but be sure to consider QT3 price drops in your analysis... for me it was a matter of getting something fast to "hold me over" for about 6+ months before I got mine.
Someone said not to get 7200.9 HDDs, if you did choose those (didn't notice) make sure and switch them out for 7200.10... those are the ones everyone (including me ) is getting the crazy speeds from and they are virtually the same exact price
I think if you only have one monitor you should get that for sure... sell a kidney. I am going to hook up my third as soon as my 7600GT, which caused problems on rig #1 come back straight from EVGA with an apology from their director of marketing...
Again, as I posted on Overclock.net, do NOT consider the Quadro... yet!
By September you will have one for $250 and selling your Duo will get you about $120 off... then if you want to spend more money now, instead spend more money later and get a faster Quadro than their $250 one... anyway, just a though... I didn't think about it too much and didn't run the numbers, but be sure to consider QT3 price drops in your analysis... for me it was a matter of getting something fast to "hold me over" for about 6+ months before I got mine.
Someone said not to get 7200.9 HDDs, if you did choose those (didn't notice) make sure and switch them out for 7200.10... those are the ones everyone (including me
) is getting the crazy speeds from and they are virtually the same exact price
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Well, while you're bumping up the pricing you may as well throw in one of these! 
http://tinyurl.com/26n355
http://preview.tinyurl.com/26n355
This is compounded if you have a high wattage PSU that is only 70% efficient. To put it in perspective, if you have a 600 watt PSU running at 70% efficiency you're going to be generating just under 200 watts of heat!
Going back to amps for a moment, it looks like you have a combined total of approximately 50amps for the three 12v rails in your PSU (which is definitely enough). While the PSU lists 19, 19, and 19 amps for each this is the maximum number of amps which can be drawn from that specific line. In essence you have 50 amps that you can distribute accross the three lines but none of the lines can draw more than 19 amps. (hope that made sense)
Soo... as long as you don't have components drawing more than 19amps from a single line you're set.
http://tinyurl.com/26n355
http://preview.tinyurl.com/26n355
Finally had some time to reply to this! Not dumb at all. Antec, as I'm certain you're well aware, makes good stuff. Total amperage on the 12v line is actually more important than total number of watts for several reasons. The first is that a PSU might have '600 watts' but have more power than usual distributed to the 5v and 3v lines. Previously PCs relied on the 3v and 5v lines a lot more heavily than today. With the advent of such high powered graphics cards PSU makers have shifted to allocating a lot more to the 12v line. If you don't have enough amperage on the 12v you'll definitely have stability issues. The other issue with PSUs is that there isn't a standard for reporting wattage. Some manufacturers report the wattage at 25 degrees C. Others report it at 40+ degrees C. This is a big issue because as the PSU heats up its efficiency drops. If you have a cheap PSU that was tested as 600 watts at 25 degrees C it will perform FAR under that in real life conditions (where the PSU will certainly be much hotter). This is the reason for the pervasive "get the largest PSU you can buy" syndrom. If you have a quality (meaing tested at a normal case temp) PSU with enough amperage on the 12v rail you'll be perfectly OK.
Too much power on the 12v rail isn't a bad thing. At least with regard to the issue of destroying components. No worries there. The only time it does become a problem is when you have a PSU that is way over powered for the components you're running and this only because the PSU will be putting out a TON of heat that you will have to expel from the case. Of course, if you don't get rid of the heat THAT can destroy your components. So you won't blow your components by having too much amperage but from having too much heat.
This is compounded if you have a high wattage PSU that is only 70% efficient. To put it in perspective, if you have a 600 watt PSU running at 70% efficiency you're going to be generating just under 200 watts of heat!
Going back to amps for a moment, it looks like you have a combined total of approximately 50amps for the three 12v rails in your PSU (which is definitely enough). While the PSU lists 19, 19, and 19 amps for each this is the maximum number of amps which can be drawn from that specific line. In essence you have 50 amps that you can distribute accross the three lines but none of the lines can draw more than 19 amps. (hope that made sense)
Soo... as long as you don't have components drawing more than 19amps from a single line you're set.