Made my Dolly, and now I have some questions for everyone!!!!

xyouthx

Well-known member
Well the dolly was made using the tutorial on this site, and it turned out perfect, but I find when I was filming with it, it's so hard to make the tracks perfectly smooth. I use shims to try to make the tracks nice and even but even still it seems that there are small hops in the footage. I was wondering if anyone could give me tips and tricks on how to make my tracks as smooth as possible. what can make the interesections in the tracks smoother?

also, what's everyone's preference for how to push/pull it the smoothest?
 
I used 3/4" pipe on mine so to connect two tracks together I used 1/2" pipe with a slice cut out of it so it will squeeze together a bit and shove half way into one pipe, and the other half in the next pipe. It is very tight, and can make a nice seam between pipes. Most of the questions you have really depends on the terrain and what you are filming. I am trying to come up with an idea for leveling it on sight quickly. I am in the proccess of improving mine right now.
 
Kdawg said:
I used 3/4" pipe on mine so to connect two tracks together I used 1/2" pipe with a slice cut out of it so it will squeeze together a bit and shove half way into one pipe, and the other half in the next pipe. It is very tight, and can make a nice seam between pipes. Most of the questions you have really depends on the terrain and what you are filming. I am trying to come up with an idea for leveling it on sight quickly. I am in the proccess of improving mine right now.

I took PVC that barely fit in the ID and drilled and tapped them and put in set screws, so the two pipes mate together tightly, but they usually have a tiny lip that sticks out on one side. And as for now I just use wood shims to adjust leveling it, but when this happens, it kind of makes that intersection a little worse of a bump, even though I do my best to make it all level.
 
I made joint pieces from plywood- cutting two narrow pieces the same width as the ID of the PVC, then slotting them down the long side so when you assemble them, they are like long extruded X's. They fit into the PVC tightly, then you can join your pipes that way. If there is any grit or sand on the PVC, the dolley bumps, so it's not ideal. But it rolls smoothly over the joints, you just have to keep it real clean.

-Tom
 
1.5" shd 40 rails.

1.25" sch 40 for inserts.

Cut a .5" slot out of the 1.25" pipe.

Cut into 12" long sections.

File sharp edges.

Sharpy a line around the halfway point of each insert.

Insert to that line...

Zero bump union of 1.5" track.

Clean your rails and inserts with lemon pledge to keep it all running smooth and easy to assemble or disassemble.

Remember that no dolly will be perfect without some surface prep. A Fisher on rails still runs on a similar system, but we use wood shims on top of plywood squares to prep the industry standard track for a level ride. If you're somewhat careful in the location you choose to get a dolly shot you'll get the best results. On uncertain pavement you can use a roll of cheap carpet that's wide enough to span your track... and lay that down first... that way sand and gravel bits won't crunch and alter your shot.
 
MattinSTL said:
1.5" shd 40 rails.

1.25" sch 40 for inserts.

Cut a .5" slot out of the 1.25" pipe.

Cut into 12" long sections.

File sharp edges.

Sharpy a line around the halfway point of each insert.

Insert to that line...

Zero bump union of 1.5" track.

Clean your rails and inserts with lemon pledge to keep it all running smooth and easy to assemble or disassemble.

Remember that no dolly will be perfect without some surface prep. A Fisher on rails still runs on a similar system, but we use wood shims on top of plywood squares to prep the industry standard track for a level ride. If you're somewhat careful in the location you choose to get a dolly shot you'll get the best results. On uncertain pavement you can use a roll of cheap carpet that's wide enough to span your track... and lay that down first... that way sand and gravel bits won't crunch and alter your shot.

although your method here is kind of confusing and hard to picture in my head, i appreciate the response, and im definately gonna look into doing the carpet thing.
 
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